hi there Eric
Here is my suggestion of the way I normally do fibreglassing on a hull - this been covered many times as a topic on different methods of doing stuff.
Your hull is 1:96 scale I notice, which in my calculations works out at a model of 46 inches in length - I had a rough count and I think you may have about 31 frames - this should give you a frame spacing of roughly about 1.5 inches to 1.75 between centres of frames. This is quite close and I wouldn't think you would require any reinforcement in the internal of the hull, due to the spacing - the structure should be quite strong.
My method of fibreglassing the hull:
First of all, I give the whole of the hull a light sanding - filling in any gaps with spare pieces of timber and sanding rough edges off. I fill all large gaps with car body filler/P38 from the care autoshop. Sand the hull smoothly, but, do not worry too much about humps and bumps in the hull as yet. Give the hull a full coating of polyester resin with hardener mixed. No matting is used as yet. Work the resin into all of the joints and into all of the planking. Allow this to harden off; this procedure bonds the planks together and begins to seal the hull. Find the most coarse wet n dry you can find - normally I buy a number 60 sheet of wet n dry.
Give the whole of the hull a good rub down and you will remove a good bit of the resin you have put on.
When you have finished rubbing down you can fill all the humps and bumps again with car body filler. When you sand down this time, ensure you use sanding blocks - don't use your hands to hold the paper - wrap the paper around sanding block and sand the hull using this method.
When this is all done and the hull is nice and smooth - but not too smooth - I use fibre glass tissue matting; not the woven roven but fibre glass tissue matting - where the bond in the matting will dissolve when you use polyester resin with it. The bonding in the matting WILL NOT dissolve if you use epoxy resin. You have a chance of ending up with a mess.
Now, cut the matting into say 4 pieces - 2 per side - put them to one side - ensuring you know where they fit on the hull - because some places you are going to have to cut Vs into the matting to get it to fold nicely around the hull shape.
Coat the hull with fibre glass resin and hardener mixed and allow to go tacky.
Put another coating of resin on - say - starting at the bow and apply your first bit of matting and stapple the resin through the matting using a stiff brush or a small ring roller. This procedure is continued all the way around the hull. Apply resin, then apply matting on the top working the resin through. When this has all set - give the hull a further 2 coatings of polyester resin.
It will look like a ploughed field, but, this is where time and patience sets in. You start off with your coarse wet n dry, smoothing the hull and working your way through the various grades of wet n dry until you end up using the smooth wet n dry. All the time looking out for little hollows which can be filled with car body filler.
Finally, spray it with an undercoat, allow it to dry for at least 48 hours - and then a final rub down with the finest of fine wet n dry and this should reveal any small blemishes left in the hull. Air pockets which you may get, can be pricked out with a scalpel blade and can be filled in with car body filler. I suggest you read through the links that I have put on earlier on and this will give you pictures as well as written blurb