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Author Topic: chainplates  (Read 989 times)


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« on: December 20, 2016, 10:47:24 AM »

Just been doing a general browse of various sites while having a break. Came across a question someone asked about fitting chainplates. He was asking if when fitting chainplates to the hull should a rubbing strake run over the chainplate. Some answers were a bit vague saying it depended on size of boat, where built etc. One suggested that as purpose of rubbing strake is protection it must be fitted over the chainplates. I've seen pictures where the rubbing strake seems to be cut to allow the chainplate to fit flush to the hull for its entire length, and others where the chainplate seems to be bent over the strake.

Would be interested to see if there is a consensus of opinion on this.



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Re: chainplates
« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2016, 02:38:32 PM »

I don't think that there is a definitive answer, as you see all varieties.
I think it depends on the design of the boat/rig.
Some chain plates are inboard, even on old wooden ships, and run down to the keel in some cases.
Some pass over a board, called a channel (see USS constitution). I am guessing this allows access to the rear of the bottom dead eye (which is outboard on some ships), as you could not thread/tension the rope through a deadeye pressed against the hull. But the gunwhales on an old warship are much higher than those on a smaller fishing vessel.
If the bottom deadeye is above the gunwhale then having the chainplate flat against the hull would not be an issue.

This then comes back to the size of vessel answer. The only way to be correct would be to find drawings or photos of the boat/ship that you are modelling and follow the original design. Not always possible, I know.

The only stupid question is the one I didn't ask


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Re: chainplates
« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2016, 08:17:48 PM »

The more modern, usually flat iron plate, that I think you're referring to typically go under rubbing strakes which are notched to allow the plate to pass under it.  Strakes are narrow and to shape the chain-plate to pass over it would compromise it doing it's job.  A change in planking thickness though, like a wale, is another matter; you can't go under that, so it's shorten the plate, or bend it to fit.
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