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Author Topic: The Art of Models Irene  (Read 30350 times)

hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #25 on: February 03, 2017, 05:04:14 PM »

The photos above taken in "Carvers" dry dock Bridgwater. I can remember when it was filled in.
 I don't go in the work shop weekends so no reports till Monday, Pub Sat racing Sun, no the rain & wind won't stop enduro.
Started on the prop shaft, found the end off a towel rail I think? A rod with a ball on the end, chromium plated brass.  Tuned it down to fit an "O" ring. I made a plate with a bearing the size of the rod, the cutting tool just behind set to the finish size. turned a bearing to fit each end of the tube soldered in. Just 2 lock nuts to hold the gear wheel & solder on the prop blades next job.
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derekwarner

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2017, 10:47:04 PM »

RGY......we see what you mean about the bridge & the deckhouse being in one......may not be all that typical....but is what you have......just thinking %)......the combined structure would be no issue in building, but offer a larger footprint deck opening :-))........

Just reading...Pub Sat.......you may have told me years ago......but is it that dreaded black goop   >>:-( that you partake in?...............Derek
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #27 on: February 04, 2017, 09:49:05 AM »

I am from Somerset now in Devon, us do drink zider. Although its more like lemonade now, good scrumpy is had to find. I am off now they open at 11-00am, should be home by 5-00pm.
   You are right about the large hatch, that's where the rudder servo will go. Not as pretty as the new one but can't have it all.   R.G.Y
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #28 on: February 06, 2017, 02:43:25 PM »

  All most completed the prop shaft just put the prop in the citric acid until the morning, add the twist then polishing.  Put the shaft in the lathe using the jaws to divide by 3, marking the angle 40deg. Cut the slots with derma, two discs in the mandrill giving the extra width.  Cut 3 squares of brass out of a old Victorian door step. (never throw any thing away).  Marked 1 piece then stuck them together with super glue. Filled down to the marks, heating  them up to burn off the glue. Bent them over.5inch rod long ways to form the dish. Silver soldered the assembly together. I hold it in position with fire cement, this sets as the torch is applied, and can be cracked off after. I keep the cement in original pot, seal small amounts in polythene bags, and a small amount of water in bottom of pot. this will stop it setting, it will keep for years this way.
  Temporally fitted the rest of the sub deck, the straight cot down the centre had to be concaved .5inch to a commutate the sheer & camber. Then marked out the important features. Done in marker so you could see.
   
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #29 on: February 07, 2017, 03:24:44 PM »

Not a lot to report. Got fed up with polishing, still more to do. So just fitted it all into the hull (temporary). Made a start on the gear box as well.
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #30 on: February 08, 2017, 04:27:41 PM »

Planking, looking at the men's heads in the dry dock sizes up the planks to be about 1ft  wide.
Need to divide the frames with no planks more than half an inch, slightly over scale but this will only be at the widest frames. First rap a strip of paper over half a frame mark the distance, repeat on all frames. The widest frame (5)in this case will need 14 strakes at least, fitting an A4 paper, mark 14 half inches starting central 7 each side. The smallest frame (1) will need 3/8th to cover it. Surprisingly little difference really. So mark 3/8th marked at the bottom of the paper. Join the marks, place the strip with the distance marks square across with the measurement touching the outer marks, draw a line mark the frame number. From this the divisions, transfer to frames. I start with the garboard strake & the top strake working to the centre. May not stick rigidly to the spacing, if going under stick a wide one in, or thinner as the case may be.   
I make my own planks, rip down on bench saw, thickness them by pushing under a roller on an upturned belt sander.  Always push against the rotation of the belt, other wise it will snatch 7 take fingers.
By to days standard 1ft planks are very wide, but I do have a pitch pine flooring board 11in on my bench. Taken out of a grain store 60 years ago.
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #31 on: February 09, 2017, 05:10:08 PM »

Finished the gear box. But disaster, well not so bad as that. The motor wouldn't clear the keel box by 1mm. As the box is made of 3mm ply couldn't shave any thing off it. Have to put an idler gear in, won't through it away may come in one day.
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MartinL

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #32 on: February 09, 2017, 10:26:27 PM »

Hammer, sorry if it's off topic but I was impressed with your adapted belt sander. Is that a roller or just a large diameter bar over top of belt, and is it fixed at other end?
Thanks
Martin
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derekwarner

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #33 on: February 10, 2017, 12:49:55 AM »

'Impressed<*<...oh yeah?...to me it looks just bl**dy dangerous

"how to launch a wooden plank toward the moon :o...in one easy lesson"

Lets ask my mate RGY if he still has 10 fingers & 10 toes?  {-)

Derek
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Derek Warner

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John W E

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #34 on: February 10, 2017, 08:21:47 AM »

Hi there Derek

Although I done condone Hammers method of sanding planks - for the reasons you have pointed out - I can confess of maintaining a rather larger version of his machine and method for a living :-)  I used to maintain a machine called a Steinemann sander at Formica where I worked - it works on the same principle as Hammer's method of sanding but as you can imagine when things went wrong and we got an 8 x 4 Formica board jammed in the machine, it just literally used to destroy the board into millions of pieces :-)

john
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #35 on: February 10, 2017, 09:55:30 AM »

Answers to the questions. It is a roller, only fixed on one side. This has the advantage that a slightly thicker section can be obtained on far side.
Derek any machine can be dangerous if used the wrong way. The idea came about because it bit me once. You probably saw the accident on another post of mine. Me finger went between the belt & the frame, so I though a bar across would stop it happening again, so why not a roller. As I said the wood MUST BE PUSHED AGAINST THE ROTATION OF THE BELT. The small strips are easily held & they are being pushed away from danger.
I have worked with wood working machines for 60 years, knowing the danger & never get to confident. No gloves, safety glasses, ear defenders, hard hats steel toe cap boots or knee pads. In my day, only wish we had knee pads as my knees are shot.  The evidence below you will have to take my word about my toes.. Well it did get some replies which was nice.
 
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John W E

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #36 on: February 10, 2017, 02:10:17 PM »

:-) us Northerners believe that certain people in the West Country may evolve from the Waorani Tribe who are known to have 6 fingers per hand and also 6 toes - so you may have lost a couple of fingers for all we know - and - we wouldn't know any different.

Nice model - be safe :-)  Enjoying your build  :-))
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #37 on: February 10, 2017, 04:45:52 PM »

Bluebird, sometimes it feels like I have 6 when trying to get a nut or screw in a small space. Are you blue (sad) or blue with cold up north. OW ARRR! Thanks for your post any way. OW ARRR!
 Funny how a mistake can be a good thing. I cut the stem short, remember. Well this allowed me to cut the ginger bread flat on the bench, before fixing.
Finished the second gear box it fits this time a tight squeeze, had to remove frame 8, temporary. Just need a cradle to support the motor on Monday. The gears & motor where taken out from something or other that was broken, can't remember what.
 
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #38 on: February 14, 2017, 01:51:52 PM »

Did some thinking the week end, always dangerous. If I had a plan I would change it. So change the model instead.  Controlled the sails on all my other sailing boats with single sheets. One servo for the main & mizzen ( if fitted ), one for stay sail & jibs. I also did make a top sail schooner "Flying Foam", now on display in the Cottage Loaf Inn Llandudno. This had two braces to swing the square sail yards. I could also furl the square sails.
 So I have moved one servo to allow a starboard & port sheet for the staysail. Giving more control, if boat gets stuck in irons when tacking pulling the sail to one side should push it around, at present I flip the rudder quickly one way, slowly the other, a few times, works.  Going down wind pulling it out to the opposite side to the main, (goose wing ) really makes a boat fly, at present just luck.  The jibs will be just in or out, but with two sheets showing.
 Next the prop, made a three blade, but better with a four, as the original. Dividing & marking on the lathe.
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #39 on: February 15, 2017, 03:35:05 PM »

Started the expanding rudder. I like to make every thing so it can be removed for maintenance, had a job with the rudder & prop. By turning away the rudder stock it can be moved sideways enough to get the prop past, before pushing the stock right home. The expanding rudder from stainless. Just needs cladding in wood.
All the frames are marked for the planks. The paper stuck with contact adhesive, fit the plank to the mark then scrape off that section before gluing the plank. Only one garboard strake fitted today. Now I have started I hope to fix four a day. So should be posting in 7 days not counting weekends, unless some one wants to know anything. Hammer, aka R.G.Y
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derekwarner

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #40 on: February 16, 2017, 12:19:50 AM »

Well RGY......has someone altered the pitch on the propeller blades or is it just an optical illusion after guzzling too much Scrumpy?  {-)....... Derek
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Derek Warner

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JimG

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #41 on: February 16, 2017, 11:38:35 AM »

Different props, the first looks like a 3 blade and the second is the 4 blade.

Jim
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derekwarner

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #42 on: February 16, 2017, 12:23:06 PM »

Hullo JimG.......how is Dundee this morning?........you are of course correct, the latter propeller has certainly grown an additional blade in addition to a greater pitch...I was really asking RGY to admit the effects of the Scrumpy  {-) on his build...... Derek
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #43 on: February 16, 2017, 04:49:50 PM »

Thanks Derek I knew I could rely on you. Thanks Jim for trying to put Derek straight you never will, I have been trying for years. As for the pitch on the prop who knows, always was a good guesser. If you can't measure you have to be. Piece work most of my working life so. Measure twice cut once, NOmeasure once & cut as many times as you can.
As I marked out the planks I found I will need a stealer at the bow. Just like the original boat, very pleased. also in this picture can be seen the zinc plats protecting the timbers from the anchor.
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #44 on: February 20, 2017, 03:42:29 PM »

Having trouble with the planking, can only manage 2 strakes in my normal play time 10 till 1. Going to lose money on this contract {-).  Trying Gorilla glue for first time has to be clamped overnight, although it said 20 minutes on the pot. To much pressure with the bends in the hull. Could use thixotropic (is that how its spelt ?) wood glue as on previous boats, sticks ok, but expands out of the joints can be very messy.
Delays as two funerals this week, that's what happens at my age. Not mine though and we have to go to the social club to drown our sorrows.
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derekwarner

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #45 on: February 20, 2017, 10:17:51 PM »

RGY...if that darned Polyurethane expanding  <*< glue gets too much......this whitish glue is has near equal properties of water resistance ..... Derek

PS....your word for 'if applied to the ceiling, will not fall of it's own weight' certainly does apply for that other goop  O0
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #46 on: February 21, 2017, 05:00:25 PM »

Wall paper paste I never thought of that, thanks Derek. But I have cracked the problem, put the foam type glue on the frames & Gorilla on the edge of the planks. It can foam all it likes on the inside of the hull, (insides on my boats never look very pretty.) The clamps can be removed in 30 minuets, speeding up the job no end.
In between planks I made some mahogany light ply. Stuck veneer on to 1/16 balsa, with contact adhesive, this will be used for the deck house soon.
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John W E

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #47 on: February 21, 2017, 05:27:49 PM »

Hi ya Hammer

May I ask, why are you not using brass pins of about 10 mm in length to secure your planks to the frames as they would have done in the real ship - just out of curiosity.     If you didn't want the heads to show of the brass nails, you could leave them slightly proud until glue has dried.  Cut the tops of the brass pin off and punch it home.

that way you can do more than 2 planks in one sitting at your table - I normally plank roughly about 5 per side in my playtime :-) then the school bell rings hahaha :-)

John
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hammer

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #48 on: February 22, 2017, 11:09:53 AM »

Thank you John, very good suggestion. But you have caught me out, I am using 3/16 balsa & pins pull through, hence the clamps. I have a stack of balsa to use up, from aero modelling days. Four foot by 4 inch planks with prices of 18p. I will cover both inside and outside with resin. This will be my fourth boat built this way. A 5ft steam powered paddler 2001 1/16 balsa still going strong.
Besides Derek made me afraid to make my planks with the thicknesser.
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John W E

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Re: The Art of Models Irene
« Reply #49 on: February 22, 2017, 06:28:54 PM »

hammer, on another thread - please put some good photographs of that paddle steamer on :-)   I must admit I was getting sick of cutting paddle wheels out of brass and when I finished cutting them out I said this is it - no more paddlers - now I have seen yours I like that!

John
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