Topic: First build "Klimek" tug, scratch build (Read 15170 times)

derekwarner · « **Reply #25 on:** January 10, 2017, 09:15:42 pm »

Well Peter....you have shown an image that is rarely offered in model building but is always referenced in full size ship builds

The 'Run of Keel' ...straight & true

...& no drunken wander

Keep the images coming thru

Derek

peter goddard · « **Reply #26 on:** January 11, 2017, 01:55:44 am »

Thanks! She's pretty special.
I stole the prop shaft tunnel thingy from a Polish build I found online.
I'll probably do some more carving on it after the planking.

I picked up some brass and copper today for the tiller. I love a nice fresh bit of copper sheet. Pity to cut it.
"Run of Keel" Very nice.
I love a true line. No matter what you build it makes it look fit!
Thanks to the master-builders for the tips to make it happen.

peter goddard · « **Reply #27 on:** January 25, 2017, 04:50:20 pm »

So, things are coming along nicely.
I can do about 5 or 6 planks a day in my spare time.
I've worked out a method that is not fast, but it works, and is easy to do.
After the first few rows from the keel the process of bending was much simpler.
Now I reached the widest part of the beam, and by tapering the planks I could fill in the chine area.
Plank 9 on either side then runs the whole length, full width.
After 9 I laid plank 13, tapering the keel facing ends of 13 till I had a nice crescent shaped gap, about three planks wide at midships.
Then fill in the gap, tapering the planks as required, and trying to make sure they run out over a rib for secure gluing.
After 13, I tapered the keel facing ends of subsequent planks, making sure they were tight to the previous plank.
Soon I ran the taper out to the last former fore and aft, and started with full width planks again.
I'm still finding push-pins to be the best way to secure my planks, and spring clamps to hold the edges in alignment with the previous run.
I shape and fit a plank, pre-drilling the pin-holes to avoid splitting, and adding spring clamps where required.
When I remove the plank for final fitting and glue, I keep the pins in the plank, and I lay the clamps down on the table where they are required.
Now I can add a drop of glue to the first rib and push the pin home in the previously established hole. Then, working along a couple or three ribs at a time, glue and fasten at each rib, adding clamps where they go.
A good bit of stout twine is a great help in securing stubborn fitting planks. I put a pin in the keel, and tie the string off there.

My drive shaft and speed controller arrived in good order. Still waiting on a prop that is looking a bit too small.
All for now.
Cheers

peter goddard · « **Reply #28 on:** February 02, 2017, 06:04:27 pm »

Wow.
Planking is a big undertaking.

I enjoyed doing it, but I'm glad I can begin to move onto other tasks.
Anyway, here is the partially sanded result.

mark w · « **Reply #29 on:** February 19, 2017, 04:11:03 am »

Lookin' great

.

Mark

ballastanksian · « **Reply #30 on:** February 19, 2017, 02:16:02 pm »

That is a good rugged hull Peter. I like plank on frame,there is something very attractive about them.

peter goddard · « **Reply #31 on:** March 01, 2017, 03:05:44 pm »

Articulated rudder.
I hope you guys like this.
I love to make things complicated I guess.
FYI this is fully hand made with very primitive tools.
Soldered copper sheet and brass tubes.

mark w · « **Reply #32 on:** March 01, 2017, 03:09:27 pm »

Cool

.

Mark

steve mahoney · « **Reply #33 on:** March 01, 2017, 07:13:08 pm »

Very nice!!

derekwarner · « **Reply #34 on:** March 01, 2017, 10:27:13 pm »

Peter....your articulated rudder is a work of engineering art

......one point you may wish to consider is controlling [reducing] the speed of movement

Rudder movement [speed] is one of the units of motion that do not really fall well into scaling

An ACTion P96 servo morph would provide this facility and also make the end set points adjustable, together with the facility to extend a standard servo travel

Derek....[no association, just a very happy P96 customer]

http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjjl6SjrbbSAhUGabwKHaaECq8QFggZMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.action-electronics.co.uk%2Fpdfs%2FP96.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGg2pxP5R0u9BeNodnY2dJ2UCvg5w&bvm=bv.148441817,d.dGc

ballastanksian · « **Reply #35 on:** March 01, 2017, 10:44:07 pm »

Peter, your rudder is brilliant especially as it is all hand built. It shows that our model making forefathers did know their onions when it came to making all maner of things with little or no machinery.

missyd · « **Reply #36 on:** March 03, 2017, 03:53:39 am »

Looks good to me the rudder!

peter goddard · « **Reply #37 on:** March 03, 2017, 12:49:24 pm »

Thanks folks!
Thanks for the tip Derek. I will add a circuit to limit the travel and speed.

peter goddard · « **Reply #38 on:** March 07, 2017, 05:49:45 pm »

So, Derek got me thinking about electronics for this ship.

I took a few hours this morning and programmed an Arduino microprocessor to do the speed and range of travel adjustments.
I'm going to add some features like directional stability and throttle curves to emulate the ramping up and down of the diesel.
I can also add a couple of battery condition monitors with an audible alarm, and a digital readout.
A failsafe that would navigate the boat back to port via GPS would be cool, as would a way to record positions and replay them for autonomous travels.

Sound effects are a possibility.
Light controls and accessory motor controls... really anything.
With bluetooth all the variables can be controlled via my IPhone; maybe even eliminate the RC receiver altogether.
Not knocking the guys who make these great, and affordable electronic devices, they are the salt of the earth.
I just happen to be capable with the computer controls, so I'm going in that direction.
I'll post my setup and programs as I complete them.

derekwarner · « **Reply #39 on:** March 07, 2017, 09:45:29 pm »

Well Pete....it certainly sounds like you are capable of creating these functions electronically

There are a number of MBM members who are going down this via Arduino microprocessor path [and many more in the wings watching {me included} watching and learning]

Be more that interested in any detailed postings you make

Derek

peter goddard · « **Reply #40 on:** March 10, 2017, 06:20:54 pm »

Hmmm.
Tried to post a lengthy primer on Arduino, but the forum rearranged all my pictures and spoiled it.
How can I make sure the images I post remain inline, rather than being relocated to the bottom of the message?

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #41 on:** March 10, 2017, 08:26:14 pm »

Quote

How can I make sure the images I post remain inline, rather than being relocated to the bottom of the message?

The pictures would have to hosted by another site. That way, you can place them between text.

ken

peter goddard · « **Reply #42 on:** March 10, 2017, 10:01:46 pm »

Ok Thanks.
I saved everything so I'll try again in the morning.

peter goddard · « **Reply #43 on:** April 03, 2017, 03:52:11 pm »

I haven't posted in a while... but I'm still making progress with the Klimek.

Used epoxy and superfine glass for waterproofing.
I like epoxy as it doesn't stink so much.

peter goddard · « **Reply #44 on:** April 03, 2017, 04:03:43 pm »

Finally free from the build board.

Upper deck is spruce strips.
I tried a solid sheet of plywood, but it just didn't want to take the shape of the deck.
Spruce is nice to work with, but dents easily.

My secret laboratory

Came out nice and smooth. I found a tip to get rid of runs by scraping them off with a razor blade. Worked fantastically!

The foredeck.

The stern. I threaded the top of the rudder post and tapped a little handmade aluminum tiller. Bit of threadlock... Bob's your uncle.

Nice slope on the deck.

Motor was mounted, took it out to apply inside waterproofing... thinned 5-minute epoxy from the dollar store.

mark w · « **Reply #45 on:** April 03, 2017, 04:37:08 pm »

Lookin' good

.

Mark

peter goddard · « **Reply #46 on:** April 14, 2017, 08:40:02 pm »

Hey Guys! Had a bit of a break to get caught up on real life.It's spring here, and that means I have to rake the ranch.Anyway, I was puzzled how to do the bulwarks, because of the tight bends, and the compound curves.Finally I just leapt in and did the bulwark plates in 1/16 balsa. I bent the bow over a small carved block about 3/4" thick.I put some very small strips down to make a notch for the bottom edge of the balsa to glue against, then I just kinda built the panels out to where they are in the pics.I stiffened the balsa with super thin super glue. Afterwards, I fashioned a number of 2" and 1" bulwark stanchions from white oak I had laying around, and stuck them in place with super glue.
The result is amazingly strong.

Oh, and I finally built a stand.

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mark w · « **Reply #47 on:** April 14, 2017, 08:43:21 pm »

Mark

ballastanksian · « **Reply #48 on:** April 15, 2017, 08:22:16 pm »

Firstly I am copying that idea in your workshop where you have the sander above the grinder, excellent

Secondly, The bulwarks look very tidy and neatly curved. It is useful to know that spruce is quite soft for future reference.

peter goddard · « **Reply #49 on:** April 15, 2017, 08:36:59 pm »

Haha Help yourself to any ideas you like.
This is a messy but VERY handy workbench.
I even have a small bending brake built into the front edge.

Thanks for the kind comments.

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Author Topic: First build "Klimek" tug, scratch build (Read 15170 times)