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Author Topic: Building the CalderCraft Imara  (Read 48514 times)

Colin Bishop

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #25 on: March 14, 2017, 07:03:17 AM »

Just to qualify my previous post. I am assuming that the tube goes through the hole in the A frame and doesn't terminate just outside the hull with an exposed length of shaft going to the A frame.


It is important that the thrust is taken on the end of the tube and transmitted to the hull. With an exposed shaft the nut should lock against the prop and the washer and ring should be between the A frame and the tube against the end of the tube and used to position the shaft so that there is a small gap between the A frame and the prop locknut. Then the A frame just acts as a bearing and does not take the thrust.


Either way, there should also be something to secure the shaft inside the hull to stop it pulling out or placing strain on the motor bearings when going astern.


Colin
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T33cno

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #26 on: March 14, 2017, 07:22:40 AM »

Some more pics for you
 :-))

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272585825424

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Tafelspitz

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The (Last) Stand, Sound Module Inquiry
« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2017, 07:23:40 AM »

Just to qualify my previous post. I am assuming that the tube goes through the hole in the A frame and doesn't terminate just outside the hull with an exposed length of shaft going to the A frame.


Yes, the tube goes all the way through the A frame and to the propeller. I successfully fitted the propellers accordingly  :-))
Now I need to align and mount the steam engine to the prop shafts. Not too easy (for me at least) with the hull slanting in all directions.


Some more pics for you  :-))  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272585825424



Nice, thanks!  :-)




Yesterday I inquired at Model Sounds Inc. about their ShockWave2 Sound module. Shipping to Switzerland is $53, which is a bit more than I anticipated. But fortunately the Swiss Franc is strong compared to the Canadian $ and so it seems to be affordable after all. That would bring the total cost of the module to approx. CAD$ 243. That's roughly 182 Swiss Francs or 148 for you UK guys ok2


Oh, and another thing: I put her stand together  O0
It's not yet glazed, but will be soon. I'll probably go for a dark mahogany glazing (and perhaps a brass name plate). Wel'll see.



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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #28 on: March 18, 2017, 02:32:24 PM »

Made some progress in the last couple of days: built the pedestal for the steam aggregates and glued it into the hull.
In hindsight it would have been easier (and actually more straightforward) if I mounted the aggregates first and after that the wooden support for the drive shafts. Ah well, learning as I go  %)


Anyway, the aggregates are of corse removable, they're secured with 4 screws each that go into drive-in nuts on the bottom side of the pedestal plate.
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T33cno

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2017, 02:35:56 PM »

Fantastic
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #30 on: March 19, 2017, 10:32:47 AM »

Thank you  :-)


Picking up on Colin's suggestion, I made a rudder support plate out of brass. It's maybe a bit clunkier than the white metal one but on the plus side it holds a needle roller bearing.
I took a picture with them side by side.



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david48

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #31 on: March 19, 2017, 11:27:01 AM »


You have made a good job of the rudder support , Just as a observation the needle roller bearing will not be turning very much and the environment that it is in you will have to keep plenty of lubrication there I have a feeling that it might start to jam if grit gets in so you might find the rudder fouls .
just my thoughts you can tell me to take a running jump I will understand
David
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #32 on: March 19, 2017, 02:26:58 PM »

David,


you may well have a point there, I haven't thought of that. Will have to keep an eye on it if and when pond yuck gets into it and what it does.
Yours is probably good advice to keep it well lubricated.
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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #33 on: March 19, 2017, 03:57:49 PM »

While the epoxy for the supports of the stern electronics plate is setting, I'm thinking about a possible layout for the steam engine parts (boiler, condensers, gas tank).
Although I can't finalise anything until I'm 100% sure where the funnel is going to sit, I need to order a couple of supplemental steam pipes for making the connections.


I guess there's still room left for the battery and some other stuff (three electric pumps, for instance  :D  )
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #34 on: March 19, 2017, 08:33:07 PM »

Dom....as you progress, you will find the following very useful for manufacturing your own self bent tube spools

Du-Bro tube benders for both 1/8" and 5/32" OD tube.....also suitable for 3 mm and 4 mm OD hard metric sized tubes

Manufacturing small tube bends in 3D is an art O0....some say for every 1" of correctly bent tube.....[maybe you have used 12" of material]

Refillable gas torch is great for soldering tube connections and annealing tube prior to bending

Are you aware that plumbers soft solder may be suitable for exhaust tubes, however steam lines from the boiler to the engine should be joined preferably via silver solder or high temperature soft solder

There a  number of threads here on MBM about soldering

Derek

PS......

1. your engine bed is good that you have a raised lip around the edges, as oscillator's tend to spray a little sloshy water about.....  :o
2. what type of electric driven water pumps are you considering?
3. please remember that the gas tank should be made easily removable [for filling outside of the hull]
4. you may wish to research a little in the actual recommended placement of the gas tank to the boiler may be critical with respect to temperature gradients especially with the cooler ambient temperatures in Europe
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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #35 on: March 20, 2017, 10:48:01 AM »

Derek,


many thanks for your tips and considerations! Mucho helpful  :-))





Are you aware that plumbers soft solder may be suitable for exhaust tubes, however steam lines from the boiler to the engine should be joined preferably via silver solder or high temperature soft solder

Actually I intend to use pre-soldered (ready-made) tubing which is available in different lengths from the manufacturer. This has 'only' to be bent in the right shape.


2. what type of electric driven water pumps are you considering?
One is a bilge pump, two is a gear type pump for a fire monitor (I like having one of these for scaring people off the pond :embarrassed: ) and three is a small peristaltic pump for a cooling water outlet simulation.


3. please remember that the gas tank should be made easily removable [for filling outside of the hull]
4. you may wish to research a little in the actual recommended placement of the gas tank to the boiler may be critical with respect to temperature gradients especially with the cooler ambient temperatures in Europe


Actually, I'm just considering discarding the tank and going with small gas cartridges instead. This would make the whole re-filling procedure redundant. Also, I'm looking at an automated gas flow regulator (link destination is in german).
Any thoughts on this?


Thanks,
Dom
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #36 on: March 20, 2017, 07:23:30 PM »

The first rudder and keel extension plate fitting test. Everything seems to fit nicely. The rudder got some coats of red oxide and I like the color  :-)


Inside the hull I made a plate for the servos and other electronics. At the front end it is held in place by a strong magnet, let-in flush, but I will probably still add an additional mechanical clamp for good measure.
Now I'm thinking about how to mount the three servos, which will be the next step.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #37 on: March 20, 2017, 10:08:01 PM »

Dom......the photograph suggests the servo plate may be ''MDF" type board......unless it is the type specially listed as OK for bathroom/laundry and moisture....best avoid it  O0

Most MDF board material will swell  >>:-( when exposed to moisture even if painted or varnished

Marine grade ply is a suitable alternative......and will accept paint or varnish without issue

Derek

PS......if your engine plate is the same MDF material it will be best to also replace this with marine grade ply sheet
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T33cno

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #38 on: March 20, 2017, 10:09:41 PM »

I use paxolin
Can drill and tap it superglue it and waterproof
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #39 on: March 20, 2017, 10:37:33 PM »

Agree with Derek - don't use MDF if that is what it is.

Colin
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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #40 on: March 21, 2017, 06:18:09 AM »

Oh  :o


Yes, the servo plate is indeed MDF. Thanks for the heads up, guys!


The engine plate is made out of plywood, fortunately. Only the two small supports beneath it are MDF as is the drive shaft / servo plate support...
These will have to go, then, I'm afraid  <:(
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #41 on: March 22, 2017, 08:51:37 PM »

You guys probably saved my bacon there by advising me not to use MDF  O0


Still, this gives me a bit of a headache now since I have to remove the drive shaft/servo plate support plate which is also MDF, lest it swells and misalignes the drive shafts. We can't have that now, can we.
So this thing has to go by way of the Dremel mill. Of course I just glued in an additional cross-support the day before  %)



Anyway, once that thing is gone, it will be replaced by this cross-beam (see image below, not yet painted).
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Tafelspitz

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Out with the old, in with the New
« Reply #42 on: March 24, 2017, 03:28:14 PM »

I milled out the dreaded MDF support plate  <:(
It was a messy and somewhat difficult job, but I got it done eventually. I had to be extra careful not to damage any other structures or the hull.


Anyway, now I'm already in the process of re-assembly.
in the pictures below you can see the new and improved (as in: plywood) servo plate and the new crossbeams replacing the old MDF plate.


And the peristaltic pump for the cooling water simulation just arrived  ok2
I wonder where the cooling water outlet should go. Any suggestions?
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #43 on: March 24, 2017, 09:01:41 PM »

Dom....please give us the heads up on the detail and supplier of the baby peristaltic pump......at a controlled speed this will simulate the characteristics of a steam driven piston pump :-))

[Many years ago, I supervised the 'shock testing' <*< of the Dutch Bredel peristaltic pump for our first Australian Collins Class submarine build......it was in the original equipment build from Kockumms {Malmo}]

Derek
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Derek Warner

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Peristaltic Pump
« Reply #44 on: March 26, 2017, 06:41:19 AM »

Derek,


The peristaltic pump is a WPM1 from Welco (www.welco.net).
They have many different sized models and you can configure them to your needs (motor voltage, tube size and so on).

The WPM1 draws approx. 0,3A at 12V.

Dom
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #45 on: March 26, 2017, 08:28:30 AM »

Thanks Dom....that is a very interesting WEB site

If the image below is your pump, it would appear that you have chosen a silicone pump tube from the broad and exotic range of tube materials available

The life of any peristaltic tube is only relative to the number of pulsations, the pressure & the medium .......& that the pump tube is mechanically deformed & closed/stressed when not in use

An advantage of this pump is that it appears that you could simply disable the pump outer shell...& remove the rotor when not used

If this is the case, you could expect a lifetime of operation based upon the frequency of operation of a model ship over a given time period

Please keep us posted with your pump installation & progress

Derek

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #46 on: March 29, 2017, 06:35:17 AM »

Just a minor update and a lousy picture of yesterday's work.
Prepared the crossbeam which will hold the electronics plate by means of some strong magnets. The magnets in the electronics plate are not yet glued in, that will be today's task.


I also made a servo plate for the two steam engine servos.
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Servo Plates
« Reply #47 on: March 31, 2017, 06:12:55 AM »

The servo plates are now done and got their first coat of paint, as did the backside of the electronics plate with its 5 magnets.


Next step will be a rough layout of all the stuff that will be mounted on the electronics plate:
- Servos
- Receiver
- Electronic switches (pending)
- Sound board
- Peristaltic pump
- Gear pump
- DC/DC converter 12V --> 6V (pending)
- DC/DC converter 12V --> 3V (pending)

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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #48 on: April 03, 2017, 08:05:21 AM »

The servo plate is taking on shape. I have mounted the two servo seats and the seat for the peristaltic pump.
Tonight I will test mount the servos.

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Servo Plate
« Reply #49 on: April 03, 2017, 08:05:30 PM »

Some progress with the servo plate.
Mounted the Servos and the rods, also there's some bits and pieces to see where they may go eventually (peristaltic pump, gear pump, sound module).
No receiver yet, but it's practically clear where it will go.
I still need some more bits and parts, but there's enough room on the plate for everything, it seems. O0



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