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Author Topic: Building the CalderCraft Imara  (Read 166625 times)

T33cno

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Tafelspitz

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Servo Plate
« Reply #51 on: April 09, 2017, 07:09:35 am »

Some more progress with the servo plate. What's still missing is the DC/DC board which will convert and distribute the 12V from the battery to 12V, 6V and 3V for the different appliances.
I got a waterproof housing for the receiver in place, but no receiver yet  :D
And there are three power switches for the RC for switching the pumps and the light.

I also made a plate for the boiler and condensers, but I can't glue it in yet since i still don't know where exactly the funnel is going to be  %)


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Tafelspitz

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DC/DC Board
« Reply #52 on: April 11, 2017, 06:20:26 am »

Just cooling off the soldering iron after soldering the DC/DC board which converts and distributes the 12V from the battery (pending) to +12V, +6V, and +3,3V for the receiver, pumps, light, sound board and whatever I may come up with during the build  ;)
It's already tested and working fine  :-))



There's a dedicated row of pins for every one of the 3 different voltages (+) and one for the ground (-). The pins can either be soldered to or plugged.
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Tafelspitz

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DC/DC-Board, Boiler Planking
« Reply #53 on: April 13, 2017, 10:14:09 am »

The DC/DC-board is now complete and ready for use. There's a second, dedicated 6V DC/DC-converter for the receiver and everything is fitted onto a small plywood seat which can be velcroed to the servo plate. Ready for making all these connections and the servo plate starts to look kinda busy  :}


I also started planking the boiler and I have to confess that this isn't my favorite task so far, as you may be able to tell when looking closely at the picture (please don't  ok2 ). But what needs to be done needs to be done, I guess.



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Brian60

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #54 on: April 13, 2017, 04:49:49 pm »

Some very neat and very nice work being done there.  :-))

derekwarner

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #55 on: April 14, 2017, 12:14:49 am »

Dom.....

I am sure in is in your longer term planning, but how will control the two standard servos for speed/direction of each engine....simultaneously & individually?

I understand that Robbe market a 'Navy' version transmitter with two side by side [twin stick] independent controls,........but not sure of other possibilities as marketed

Derek

 
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #56 on: April 14, 2017, 04:27:52 pm »

Some very neat and very nice work being done there.  :-))


Thank you, Brian!



I am sure in is in your longer term planning, but how will control the two standard servos for speed/direction of each engine....simultaneously & individually?


Derek, I'm looking into this RC set from Graupner (mz-24 PRO). It has lots of mixers and stuff and I'm sure programming a mixer for the engines / rudder action may be accomplished with this.


Yesterday I mounted the boiler parts on their seat and test mounted the deck boards to get an idea of how things may eventually look inside the hull.
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Tafelspitz

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Lugs and Filler and Rudder, oh my!
« Reply #57 on: April 18, 2017, 07:44:28 pm »

I decided to go with the supplied keel extension, after all. I fitted it with a plain bearing to lessen the friction. After covering the whole thing with car body filler and sanding it down, I think the result is kinda pleasing.
The rudder is now firmly in place and the inside part of the stern keel section is filled / sealed with epoxy.
Apart from that, I drilled a couple of holes into the keel for the lugs that will supply the two pumps.
And then there are a couple of holes and lugs in the shell plate: one is the outlet for the cooling water simulation, and the other is the outlet for the bilge pump.
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Korp1010

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #58 on: April 18, 2017, 08:29:58 pm »

Looking good, can I please ask what the white glue holding the propshafts and rudder support is, car body filler? Looks more like a silicone type glue.


Thanks
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #59 on: April 18, 2017, 08:38:45 pm »

Yes, it's car body filler. It's the first time I'm working with that stuff, but I like it. It smells kinda nasty until dry, but it's very easy to sculpt and sand.
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Stavros

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #60 on: April 18, 2017, 09:22:57 pm »

PLEASE put some P40 over that filler on the inside of the hull car body filler HAS NO STRUCTURAL strength at all it can crack under vibration.Others will jump on the bandwagn here and say it works for me TRUST me I do know what I am talking about here


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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #61 on: April 19, 2017, 06:12:40 am »

PLEASE put some P40 over that filler on the inside of the hull car body filler HAS NO STRUCTURAL strength at all it can crack under vibration.


Dave, thank you for the heads up. I intended to cover the filled joints of the drive shafts with some epoxy soaked glass fibre. May I ask what you mean by 'P40' as I couldn't find anything on the net about that?
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Paul2407

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #62 on: April 19, 2017, 06:42:47 am »

What Dave is suggesting is Isopon P40 it's a fibreglass based filler http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/fillers-preparation/davids-isopon-p40-glass-fibre-repair-paste-600ml

hope that helps
Paul
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #63 on: April 19, 2017, 07:44:55 am »

Gotcha. Thanks, Paul!
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Fred Ellis

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #64 on: April 19, 2017, 08:42:58 am »


I am just loving this post and your work, I also go along with the comments with regard to the car body filler.
I use Milliput two part epoxy putty for most of my filling and fixing, as it is like a putty, you can smooth it with water so less sanding, can be drilled and more, have a look at there Webb site  www.milliput.com
Fred
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #65 on: April 19, 2017, 01:31:21 pm »

Thank you, Fred, I think I've used that putty before and I think they got this stuff in our local hardware store. Will check it out next time I'm there  :-))
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Water Outlets
« Reply #66 on: April 22, 2017, 07:47:37 am »

Here are the two water outlets for the cooling water and the bilge pump from the outside. Being a tug, the Imara has a rather high water line, meaning that the distance between the deck and the water line is kinda small. Therefore I guess that the water outlets will sit only approx. 2-3 cm above the water.



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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft ImaraSteam Bending some Wood
« Reply #67 on: April 23, 2017, 07:42:01 pm »

Tried something I've never done before: steam bending wooden bands for the deck support. One of the bands cracked slightly, but I think I can still use it (provided they actually stay in shape after cooling and drying  :} ) since the crack is on the side that will be glued into the notch.
I have no idea what kind of wood this is, but it gave off a slightly unpleasant smell during steaming. Anyway, I wonder what the result of my bending attempt will look like tomorrow. Stay tuned  ok2



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steam up

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #68 on: April 24, 2017, 06:39:52 am »

Give "Windowlene" it works treat ,spray on let it soak in then bend simple. :-))

T33cno

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #69 on: April 24, 2017, 07:17:53 am »

I found steaming costly and messy
I've been soaking wood overnight and then forming it
Then let it dry out in the required shape
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #70 on: April 24, 2017, 08:46:11 pm »

Well well, the bow side bands turned out almost perfect. The stern ones will need some additional treatment, though. I will try T33cno's suggestion and soaking them over night  :-))


Glueing in the first of the bent suppport beams. I'm a bit short of big clamps, so it will be one beam after the other.



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Tafelspitz

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Some more Soldering
« Reply #71 on: April 25, 2017, 08:42:16 pm »

Well, it turns out that I wasn't very successful with the soaking method, after all. After soaking the wood over night, it just cracked when I tried to bend it. But never mind, I will solve this problem in a different way that won't involve bending.


Anyway, while the glue of the second bow band settles, I did some more soldering on the servo / electronics plate. I don't think it's much of a secret that I'm a bit more capable with the soldering iron than I'm at bending wood  {-)
Also, I finally went and bought (mail ordered) the RC set and it should arrive tomorrow or on thursday. Then I can complete the board and smoke test everything.


BTW I now covered the car body filler parts with glass fibre and epoxy as some of you guys advised. It's not very pretty in places but it sure adds security and stability.
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T33cno

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #72 on: April 25, 2017, 08:50:34 pm »

If its only support beams why not put several cuts part way through to take the resistance out of it?
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Building the CalderCraft Imara
« Reply #73 on: April 26, 2017, 09:26:13 am »

Yes, that's what I'll probably end up doing  :-))
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Tafelspitz

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Look what Santa brought me :-)
« Reply #74 on: April 26, 2017, 08:48:42 pm »

Well, well, well. I guess Santa was a bit early this year and he brought with him a nice RC set  :embarrassed:



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