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[derekwarner]

Hi Dom......


The front wall [bulkhead] is a width not a length.....so if I understand correctly I think the sides of the structure [my red lines] should be parallel, running forward & aft


Derek

[Tafelspitz]

Hi Derek


Yes, you're right, essentially. Only that it isn't all that easy, since the front bulkhead is slightly bent and slanted and everything is (obviously) supposed to fit the tiled floor board and the dedicated spacing in the deck panel. Taking everything into account, it kinda fits the way I just put it together, except the front wall is approx. 3 mm too wide, even after bending and slanting 


Dom

[JimG]

This is where being a modeller comes in instead of just an assembler. If all the rest fits OK and the front is too big then just trim it to fit.
Jim

[Tafelspitz]

You're spot on there, Jim.
It's just that I like to sort things out for sure before I trim it off only to later realize that this part was supposed to go somewhere else 

[Tafelspitz]

Glazing the parts for the captain's wardroom and kitchen.
As for the checkered tile floor, my first idea with blue masking tape was a bit too cumbersome, so I went with plan B and used some wider if cruder masking tape. Cut the lines with a scalpel and peeled off every other tile.
I then gave it another spray of white to prevent the black paint from sipping under the tape and then finally a couple layers of black.
Turned out OK, it checks out 

[gdpirie]

For the salon floor of my Imara, I Googled tile floor photographs and downloaded a checkerboard style in tan and white that looked appropriate.  I adjusted its size for the boat scale with Photoshop and printed it out as a photograph on 8 x 10 photopaper, trimmed to fit and viola, looked great with a minimum of effort.  Bottom line however is that when the cabin is finished you can only see the floor through the cabin door that I installed partially open.  Oh well, it was fun
Regards; George

[Tafelspitz]

That's an inventive way for making the tiled floor, George. I'd thought you'd see more of the floor through doors and windows, but oh well. It was kinda fun making.


I sidestepped to the hand rail of the reeling, which is supposed to be made from 2x3 mm wooden beams and apparently bent in shape... not my special area of expertise. There must be another way.
So I used the deck board as a stencil and drew its outline to a piece of paper and did the same thing again but after measuring 3 mm inside the line. This left me with a nice pencil drawing of the railing I need.


After scanning the drawing I filled the outline with black and imported it into the CAD program to add the 3d dimension and prepare it for 3D printing.
Turns out the print is a perfect match for the deck. All it needs now is a coat of wooden brown color 

[gdpirie]

That looks like it will be a very nice handrail.  Were you able to include the slotted underside to align the stanchions?  I used the supplied slotted stock for my hand rails after repairing splits in about half of it that came from packing and shipping.  Instead of trying to bend the stock which is virtually impossible without breaking, I cut a 45 degree miter at each of the forward corners and glued the corners.  It worked out pretty well and the slotted stock allowed easy alignment of the stanchion tops.

[Tafelspitz]

Looking good, George! Thank you for the pic, I'm always a sucker for close-up images of finished Imaras, as they are tremendously helpful.
As for your question, no, I didn't include the slotted underside. I considered implementing recesses for the stanchion tops but then scraped it. I guess I'll just drill some small holes through the deck and into the handrail to align it.


How did you treat the stanchion tops for the handrail, btw? As far as I can see, they all come with bulbous tops.


Dom

[gdpirie]

I'm not sure I totally understand your question, but I'll give it a try.  There are 2 types of stanchions.  The one with the bulbous top and hole is for the upper railing and the stair railings and the wire railing goes through the top and the middle holes.  The stanchion for the lower railing has pins on the top and bottom.  The top pin fits into the railing slot and the bottom pin fits into the deck.  In both cases the fatter end of the stanchion goes into the deck.  The stanchion on the left in the photo is for the upper railing and the right, the lower.  If this is not your question, ask again; old age is creeping up.


Regards; George

[Tafelspitz]

Thanks, George, that was exactly my question. But as far as I can see, I only got the first type of stanchions you describe (the bulbous type for two sets of wire) 
Looks like I'll have to sift through the contents of my kit again to see if I missed something.

Dom

[Tafelspitz]

All clear... the stanchions are there, mixed together with the bulbous ones. Didn't notice there were two different kinds before 
And I just realised that I could print the handrail from fibre wood filament, which will give it a wood-like appearance after sanding and glazing.

[gdpirie]

I forgot, there is a third smaller stanchion with only the top hole that is used for the stairs and railing to the funnel platform.  You should also have more stanchions than you need depending on your choice of placement.  I used about 3.5 mm on the sides which was close to the print and 3 mm on the forward side of the cabin, which gave a good proportional placement.  When you get to threading the wire in the railings there are also a few tricks.  Have fun. 


Regards; George

[Tafelspitz]

Yes, the stanchions for the funnel platform I have already identified and separated. Thank you.
As for threading the wire, I was thinking about pre-bending it with some nails on a template.


Dom

[Colin Bishop]

Dom,

I have found when fitting railings at this sort of scale that it is best to have no more than one bend in each length of wire, otherwise you are forever trying to get everything straight and in alignment.
Then hide the joints in plain sight. If you look at the first photo below you can see that a short section of railing above the bollards is slightly thicker than the rest of the rail. This is thin aluminium tube sleeved over the joint between the wires and is virtually unnoticeable especially as the bollards tend to draw the eye. You can put these joints anywhere they will draw the least attention. It does make things a lot easier. The second photo shows the railings being assembled. I drilled the holes for the stanchions and set everything up and then used solder paint for the joints. I could then withdraw each section for painting and then subsequently gluing back into place.
An alternative to aluminium tube are tube beads for jewellry making, they look like this and come in various sizes:

https://www.pandahall.com/p-1630095-304-stainless-steel-tube-beads-stainless-steel-color-15x1-5mm.html?areaType=NormalArea&p=1&i=17&paLb=List

I didn't need templates, I just used long nosed pliers to make the bends.
Do keep posting on your impressive build.

Colin

[Tafelspitz]

That sounds like sound advice, Colin. Thank you. I will be looking for tube beads 


My wooden handrail just off the printer. All it needs now is some minor sanding and two coats of glazing.

[Tafelspitz]

I just learned that after sanding, the 3D-print from wood filament looks just like a regular piece of timber - pretty cool!
I have drilled the holes for the stanchions and put things tentatively together. Looks good in my book. Not yet sure whether to leave the brass stanchions as they are or give them a coat of paint. I'm open for suggestions there 

[Colin Bishop]

Looks good but paint the stanchions white. They would never be brass colour in real life.

Colin

[gdpirie]

That's looking very good Dom.  Before you start gluing anything, I would suggest you sort out the wire railing.  I used brass rod since it is easier to form than the steel rod in the kit, but 1 mm rod is a very tight fit through the center stanchion holes and once the rod is bent more than just the side curves you can't slide the stanchions around.  Even the side curves cause binding when aligning the rods. I ended up using three pieces and joined them inside of the corner stanchion joint.  Brass also solders much easier than the supplied rod.  The top slotted rail made alignment a lot easier.  As far as color, do what you like; it's your boat.


Regards; George

[nmbrook]

That's a fabulous solution to the top rail.I have spent 20 years building period ship models and even mastered the 'dark art' of bending Ebony,probably the hardest timber on the planet to bend and I would say you could not bend that top rail in that tight arc even using any easy to bend timber like Pear.You would just end up with too much deformation of the rails cross section with such a tight bend,The only way would have been to laminate several square section strips edge to edge after bending each one separately.


Regards


Nigel

[Colin Bishop]

As George says, brass is a much better option for the rail. You can open out the stanchion holes slightly with a drill or needle file to give flexibility.

Colin

[Tafelspitz]

Looks good but paint the stanchions white. They would never be brass colour in real life.

Yup, I guess you're right. I think I'll go with white, after all.

That's a fabulous solution to the top rail.[...] and I would say you could not bend that top rail in that tight arc even using any easy to bend timber like Pear.

Thank you, Nigel.
That's what I figured when I was looking at them sharp bends. Glad you confirmed my suspicion and I'm quite happy with the result so far.

Before you start gluing anything, I would suggest you sort out the wire railing.  I used brass rod since it is easier to form than the steel rod in the kit, but 1 mm rod is a very tight fit through the center stanchion holes and once the rod is bent more than just the side curves you can't slide the stanchions around.

Thanks, George! I just double checked and the rod from my kit is in fact all brass, and it also fits neatly and easily through the stanchion holes. My presumption would be that you may have had an older kit from a couple of years back, as it seems they have changed some materials over time. Your deck board also looks slightly different from mine, which would confirm my theory.

[Tafelspitz]

I've now glued the deck to the structure and treated it with weatherall.
The rails are primed, painted and varnished. Showing them tentatively in place on the picture below, but I will not glue it in place before I have built the cabin. Speaking of which, trying on some furniture (a raw 3D printed table and fridge in this case).
First mate checking out his new and glazed handrail 


Dom

[Colin Bishop]

Railings look very good. Well done.

Colin

[derekwarner]

Dom....


I imagine the actual Imara would have had a 32 volt battery backup system, together with a small steam turbine generator set...

So with a cold ship, the only power available would be the battery 32V system...[essentially for lighting]

What were the generator supply voltages?....110V or 240V?

[just wondering for the refrigerator?, or if a refrigerator was actually in the Bridge area?]........Derek