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[Sub driver]

12 to 15 yrs ??? ye gods and little fishes, by then we will probably be building things in a replicator housed next to a computer aided design suit built into a matchbox that we keep in our pocket,,,12 to 15 yrs !!!!

[PSSHIPS]

Ya need to build in a skeleton like I do, my oldest one is over 20 years old and still going strong, once painted it protects the Styrene from UV, this causes it to break down, the other thing with it is, the type of paint used. Modelling paint such as Humbroll or Revell types are ok, but, not these types of stuff for cars, NO, not good for it at all. Acrylics are fine also, the other thing is don't expose it to rapid temperature changes, or leave it in the back of the car on a hot sunny day. Its a case of knowing the nature of the beast, I've been building with styrene for over 30 years and never had this cracking problem as such, I have had curves split occasionally, but, the answer to that is to heat the styrene as you are building it to do a curve and not do it cold. If anyone wants any help with this stuff I am here. There are do's and dont's as there is with everything.
 Paul ...

[Sub driver]

  Aye, the good old days we used to bash people over the head and drag them back to the cave too ! ::) ::)

[PSSHIPS]

I'm in the mood for bashing heads tonight, got some new neighbours who let their kids run riot knocking on doors and scratching cars for fun, this is war here!

[Bluebird v2]

Aye, 15 years ago, when I was building the Boston Blenheim, there was a bearded caveman trying to bash some sense into a man from Rushton diesel engine Company with a rather large spanner, as I can remember - and there was no sign of any Plasticard there   

Now I know where all the emergency exit signs went from that ship - the first Plasticard Paul got his hands on  aye remember that day Paul

aye
John E
Bluebird

[PSSHIPS]

Thats, Ruston John, not Rushton, silly blighter tried to set the timing the same as for a generator from new spec and not a propulsion engine from used spec, silly twit!

[shoseimaru]

Hi Bluebird. The answer is that I am not an amazing modeller, with regard to my plasticard model of 2564. I only did it to see if it could be done. I used John Prichards plans MM1335. Using 2mm card for the frames and stringers, 1mm for the deck and superstructure, with some 0.5 mm thrown in for good measure, the planking was done in 0.5mm plasticard, but double diagonal planked just like the original boats during WW2. Midships and the stern can be done in quite wide pieces with a cut at 45 degrees to the keel, and the outer sheet scribed with a point scriber to simulate the planking every 1/4 inch or 6 inch on the real thing. the bow shape and underside in order to maintain the double curvature I used 1/4 inch wide strips working from the chine line to the keel and the deck. I always build my hull inverted and to allow for the shear of the deck line work to a datum parallel to the waterline, the datum being high enough to get spring clamps under when you reach the top of the deck. Don't forget to cut the frames sligthly smaller than the plan drawing to allow for the thickness of the planking, and extend them to the datum line I screwed 8mm squre timber to the extension pieces and screwed them vertically to the building board. The stringers help with giving something to stick the planking to.
Please be aware that Plasweld liquid should only be used in a very well ventilated area, that is windows open and a fan blowing the fumes away from you. liquid poly is not as mind numbing!!! but still needs plenty of ventilation.

PHILL BOWKER (ALIAS SHOSEIMARU)

[Bluebird v2]

PHILL (ALIAS SHOSEIMARU) Hi there,

First of all, Welcome to the Forum and I hope you enjoy it - you will get some good laughs on here 

Thank you for your response.  It is funny how I should find you now - because whilst I was building my version of the 2564 I tried to find out who actually built the model and try to contact you.   I drew a blank on that UNTIL NOW  :) I hope you will stay around on this forum, because we need people like your goodself to show us (those that cannot/struggle with the use of Plasticard).

I, myself, am one of those people who are very limited to how I can use the material Plasticard.  I tend to make the item from solid timber (i.e. balsa wood) and cover them with the material Plasticard.   i.e. ammo boxes, small deckhouse structures, square vents and soforth.  Yet I know these could be made without the aid of a substructure, but, everytime I have tried, I have just ended up with a mess  >:( that is why I say, when I look at the likes of what you can do, and others, just makes me sit back and wonder what am I doing wrong.  Lack of patience...I dont know.  Personally, though, one of the things I think it boils down too is, if you are happy using any material like Colin Bishop and myself are quite happy and confident to build in timber and it comes natural to us...so working in Plasticard must come naturally to you and others.   

Anyway, for those of you who are interested Ive included 2 photographs of the 2564 vessel that I built from timber.

Sadly, to say, the only thing that is made from Plasticard on this model are the perspex gun domes and the ammo boxes.

Ive included an internal shot for cds123 because cds123 had asked me a while ago if I had any internal shots.  The motors are two Mtroniks Vision 600 spring marines and a 30 amp Electronize Speed controller.

Aye
john e
BLUEBIRD

[Martin (Admin)]

Topic Split - Building the Shoseimaru