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[Paul2407]

Looking great Terry, most of what you see now won't be seen in a few week time so no panic  you're doing a grand job though

[FrozenRabbit471]

Looking great Terry, most of what you see now won't be seen in a few week time so no panic  you're doing a grand job though

Thanks! I feel encouraged by you guys.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Question guys, the acetate indicated  here, is it merely used as a test fit sheet? A couple guys suggested thick paper. This  would allow the superstructure to go on and come off the boat easily.
In the diagram, it shows a a pretty big piece, that eventually disappears in further diagrams.
Just a wee stumped.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hi all,
I couldn't decide where to place my query as the margins for the subject are so wide. The answers are so vast, it almost becomes complex.
I'm building the Smit Rotterdam by Billing Boats 1:75 scale. I am about to start sanding. I have applied non-polyester resin and 3/4 oz fibreglass cloth to the inside of the hull. Solid as a church! Looks great.
Most builders share either home made ideas or suggest fillers by brand name. This serves well if you're near the same county, province, state or country.
I want to fibreglass the outside of my hull after I have it all filled and sanded smooth. I'd like to know what type of filler is compatible with the type of resin / fibreglass I am using?
Much appreciated mates.😊

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

I use car body filler, as this will accept fibreglass resin and can be sanded smooth.  Get the sort that doesn't contain 'bits of chopped matt' as you want it smooth before covering.

hope this helps

ken

[Stavros]

If it is car body filler then any resin and matt will be compatable




Dave

[FrozenRabbit471]

If it is car body filler then any resin and matt will be compatable




Dave

Thanks Dave

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hey all,


Here is where I'm at right now. Deck 3 cabins.

[FrozenRabbit471]

  Wait, hang on! This is the first time I ever used fibreglass putty. I have no finesse in my hand to spread and feather this stuff out.
The initial coat "IS" on right and in every crack, but I think I added too much hardener. That and the amount I put on is a learning curve. It appears to be an epic fail, but she will be a fine ship when I'm done.

[ballastanksian]

Kenny (Tug) applied lots to his Queen mary some weeks back and look how well that came out! Mind you, he may have used standard repair filler and not the glass reinforced type but it will be interesting to see how it goes.

Will there be copious amounts of glass particles? If so do wear a mask and coveralls, and perhaps sand it down the bottom of your garden!

[FrozenRabbit471]

Kenny (Tug) applied lots to his Queen mary some weeks back and look how well that came out! Mind you, he may have used standard repair filler and not the glass reinforced type but it will be interesting to see how it goes.

Will there be copious amounts of glass particles? If so do wear a mask and coveralls, and perhaps sand it down the bottom of your garden!

Wish me luck. I'll keep you updated. fingers crossed

[Brian60]

Sorry I'm late with a reply however I don't think anyone answered about the acetate. The reason it is there is to allow you to assemble the superstructure in situ so you get as tight a fit on the coaming as possible, the acetate stops any excess glue bonding it to the deck until you can remove it to the workbench.

[Brian60]

Also there are two types of body filler - the one sold in Halfords for diy use, its quite a 'thick' medium and the hardener supplied means that it sets up quite quickly - typically within 5 minutes.

There is also a type available to the trade (which should be available at your automotive paint suppliers), it is more of a fluid medium, more runny and easier to spread, it also takes longer to set, working time of 20 minutes is normal.

[Mark T]

Sorry I'm late with a reply however I don't think anyone answered about the acetate. The reason it is there is to allow you to assemble the superstructure in situ so you get as tight a fit on the coaming as possible, the acetate stops any excess glue bonding it to the deck until you can remove it to the workbench.

This is what I thought too....If you do not have any acetate I have successfully used sellotape on the past for this purpose.  Also a tip for applying filler is to put many thin layers on rather than trying to get it filled in one hit.  This has always worked for me and saves lots of elbow grease!  Keep at it as I'm sure you build will turn out great 

[FrozenRabbit471]

The kit doesn't supply acetate so I used parchment paper. It give me a precision fit. I have the bow section glued together but not to the boat yet.
The hull has been completly filled, sanded and another fill in certain areas. Ill sand that tomorrow. I've also sanded the window holes a little bit to add some realism, shown in the photo. It hasn't been fine tuned yet.

[FrozenRabbit471]

This is what I thought too....If you do not have any acetate I have successfully used sellotape on the past for this purpose.  Also a tip for applying filler is to put many thin layers on rather than trying to get it filled in one hit.  This has always worked for me and saves lots of elbow grease!  Keep at it as I'm sure you build will turn out great 

thanks skipper

[FrozenRabbit471]

I did some more sanding and filling, working tiny amounts on the bow face and shaping the bell the way I want it.
 had that done by 11 a.m. and feel guilty (haha) not working on the superstructure today. But hey, the real Smit Rotterdam wasn't built in a day.Slow & steady

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hey all,


I haven't given up. I've simply got derailed by life. I Have done a small bit of work on the lower superstructure in between.


I hope to get back at the hull and get my RC components soon.


Terry

[SailorGreg]

No rush Terry.  The idea is to have as much fun as possible, so the longer it takes, the more fun you have!     There are some around here (me included) whose builds run into years.  Imagine how much pleasure we have derived from simply cutting and sticking bits of wood and plastic!   

[FrozenRabbit471]

No rush Terry.  The idea is to have as much fun as possible, so the longer it takes, the more fun you have!     There are some around here (me included) whose builds run into years.  Imagine how much pleasure we have derived from simply cutting and sticking bits of wood and plastic!   

I already have places and ideas for "bits & bobs" !

[FrozenRabbit471]

I've discovered the initial bulk filler application over the hull was the easy part.


The later stages of smaller amounts of filler is like pulling teeth. Very tedious.


It's all a part of it I guess. I am either very lucky or actually have some hidden skills to have pulled of a successful hull despite the not so perfect planking.



The easy part of the build is all behind me now. This is where patience and time really kicks in. I am still loving it.

[FrozenRabbit471]

The bow & bell are working out great. It's obviously not completed yet. Fill and sand, fill and sand. To the non builders, it doesn't look very good, but it's only due to the various shading of fillers.

The paint and wax will prove to be a masterpiece for this amateur!😁

[ballastanksian]

Even the small amounts of filling and sanding I have done to date seem like marathon jobs, but you do get there in the end.

She's looking good 

[FrozenRabbit471]

This is just the first coat of primer to show me the hills, valleys and pinholes. I have some more light fill and sanding.
Some areas "look" rough, but the lighting and shading accounts for some of it. This hull is a solid as a church. The inside is very rigid as it's epoxied with fibreglass cloth..... and two clothes pins!

[ballastanksian]

Cor, you are zooming along!