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[dougal99]

Lead acid batteries provide ballast as well as power. If you've got the room I would recommend Lead Acid.

[Paul2407]

Yes you are going to need somewhere between 3.5 and 4.5 kilos of ballast a 12v 9ah battery is 2.6kg so your well on your way with that I've put in approx 0.8kg as well and it's still sitting a little high,
but I was leaving mine like this at the moment as I'm trying to make a smoke generator unit but cannot find a waterproof box the right size and unsure how to make one so might have to resort to buying something pre made  i just don't have a lot of room towards the bow inside so might even look at moving the battery forwards and the smoke gen can go midships 

[ballastanksian]

I don't know how sacrilegious it is, but the more I look at my Smit Rotterdam Build, the more I visualize personal changes I like to make. I don't like the original colors, I think my boat would look better without the forward mast and to down-scale the main mast and also without the deck protection bars. I may even move the stacks just slightly away from the rear wheel house and place the stairs in between each stack and the wheelhouse.


That's just what I see now. I can't see going farther than that, but I'm excited to see the changes. the good thing is, these items can always be added on if I'm wrong.


So, should I be lined up and shot or can you see some fun?

It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?

If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.

Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.

You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white 

[Paul2407]

It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?

If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.

Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.

You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white 

Quite right there are at least 6-7 colour schemes I remember seeing for this ship so yours to do what you like sir 

[FrozenRabbit471]

It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?

If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.

Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.

You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white 

It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?

If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.

Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.

You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white 
Balastanksian Good laugh on that last part. wife chuckled.... then she took the cloth. haha

It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?

If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.

Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.

You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white 

[FrozenRabbit471]

Thanks a million mates. Strong encouragement and always the given option on direction.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Howdydoo guys!


I'm just going to skip the daily count. Too hard to remember and it's not important. We can look back at the start date when she's steaming across the pond. I'll send her across from Newfoundland to the UK for her first inspection. Send her back to me with a small Mickey of good brandy!


Here's a couple pics of this morning's move into the spare room. It's awesome.
I added the upper bow lip and a couple more planks on the stern. (propeller shaft area).


Last, I applied some filler to the flat bottom keel.


Cheerio

[T33cno]

Sorry but you need to fit those parts with the deck DRY fitted in place or you CANNOT be sure they are following the edge of the deck.
I think you'll find that if you try the deck now it won't fit without gaps or worse too tight and then you have to trim the deck edge loosing the handrail holes.
The upper bow panels especially are towards the latter stages in fact mine are not fitted yet and the hull is near completion.

I really would follow the pictures in my gallery they are in chronological order and everything fits

[T33cno]

Even on the first page of the album you'll see the mid deck dry fitted before attaching side panels and I do this repeatedly with the rear deck while fitting deck line planks.
https://techno.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-5Ps7Jck


example

[FrozenRabbit471]

ah. I shall test mine and let you know if I'm lucky or not.   Big learning curve.

[FrozenRabbit471]

so, I sized a few things up. The boat looks rough. It's nowhere near the finesse shown in T33cno's build photos. But I am playing the greenhorn card for the foreseeable future.


that's not to say I won't heed the advice you all offer. As you can clearly see, it's too late to repair the mess I made on the bow. It's...... "off". But hey, so am I.


I would say sticks and filler will have to do. I am hellbent on having a solid canoe, making it look good, and operate on the water. 


Don't give up on me yet.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hey all,


Ive completed the planking the underside of the stern / keel. It may look a little rough but im happy with it. Thus far, my biggest problem will be the the outer upper curved wall of the bow where its supposed to meet the forward deck.
i'll carry on as if i was normal.


Let me know what you think.


Terry

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hey Andy, I don't know if you've had the opportunity to view my last couple of photos showing your theory to be true.

"If" one were to remove the upper bow side planks, what would be the recommended procedure? Carful use of fine tip x-acto?

Terry

Sorry but you need to fit those parts with the deck DRY fitted in place or you CANNOT be sure they are following the edge of the deck.
I think you'll find that if you try the deck now it won't fit without gaps or worse too tight and then you have to trim the deck edge loosing the handrail holes.
The upper bow panels especially are towards the latter stages in fact mine are not fitted yet and the hull is near completion.

I really would follow the pictures in my gallery they are in chronological order and everything fits

[T33cno]

Really difficult to say Terry. Just how secure do they feel, what glue is it?
Trying with a knife blade is a start. Don't worry about a bit of damage as the bulked frames needed sanding back anyway.
Same applies with the mid deck and rear deck too tho

[FrozenRabbit471]

I'll take a crack at it. Shoot.. bad choice for words.

Really difficult to say Terry. Just how secure do they feel, what glue is it?
Trying with a knife blade is a start. Don't worry about a bit of damage as the bulked frames needed sanding back anyway.
Same applies with the mid deck and rear deck too tho

[FrozenRabbit471]

I removed the outer bow planks with only minor damage. "lucky"!


My guess is now, dry fit all decking with tacks and carry on with the hull closure from the bottom.


I am assuming I should dry fit the bow deck first and grind down the forward ribs as needed to draw the large planks in to meet the deck.


Everyone confused? I have myself convinced so I figure I am ok. bahaha

[FrozenRabbit471]

Its has become clear to me where the issue is, Its not pretty.


Take note in the 3 photos, largest of the bow ribs back towards the nose of the bow, everything shifts to starboard. Its off quite a bit. I can shift it back toward port by hand with some stress. Im not vexxed with myself at all. I still say its a learning curve. Questtion is, what would be the recommended steps to help fix it?


Terry

[Martin (Admin)]

... careful on that chair Terry!   

[FrozenRabbit471]

Bahaha. Good tip!

... careful on that chair Terry!   

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hi all,


I've managed to fix my misalignment issue. I have all decks dry fitted and tacked down. They match up flush. I consider myself lucky.
I will dryfit the bow face plywood back in place so i can start planking the hull.


Question!!! Can tacks be used for the hull planks? Is it a glue only job? Do i glue each plank to just the ribs, or all along each plank as well?
I'd love some opinions on it


Terry

[T33cno]

I used aliphatic resin wood glue and normal practice is to apply the glue to all frames and edges . Excess wipes off easily.
If you look at my gallery you will see I often used pins or any other improvisation that accomplished the need! necessity is the mother of invention.
Well done Terry 

[T33cno]

Seems I didn't picture much of the pinning but along the line I started using these Graupner tacks

[T33cno]

I would not get too carried away so far as considering the bow deck at all Terry. There is so much more to consider lower down and work your way up. Here right at the very late stage of my hull I still have not fixed those upper bow panels nor the deck yet and my middle decks are still not fitted until I complete the radio equipment motors etc

[FrozenRabbit471]

pins are sometimes hard to get in. If I reach too much resistance I back off. and I listen intently to ensure the wood is not fracturing while pinning.
So the fun of hull planking starts. I've been looking forward to it.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Looks awesome Andy. I will start from the bottom up. I have to buy more adhesive so maybe I will use what you use. what's the drying time for that product?