1)looking at the plans the rudder is 60mm deep and 13mm wide.
2)The turn fin is 35mm deep and 18mm wide.
3)Going on about the same size boat on the Hobbyking site.
The Ariane 2(930mm) has a 3660-2075kv(water cooled)brushless motor with a 125Ammp water cooled ESC running a 5000mah 4S Lipo battery.
No prop size given sadly.
Rudder servo 3KG+..
They have a good number of drive unit with flex drive cables.
With that powered motor I go 5mm flex drive.
Now I thought the rudder had to be a percentage of the total length and the same as the turn fins.?
Grant
Hi Grant,
Which forum would that be, got a link?
By the numbers:
1) a rudder that short is for when you've dialed out all bad behaviour and you're ready for a bit less drag and a little more nervous behaviour. I'd start with a longer rudderblade.
Important is to have the rudderblad next to the prop, to further counteract propwalk (next to the offcenter driveline).
2) a turnfin only gets wet when the boat banks into a turn, finding out which shape works best (for you) is part of the dialing in process.
3) the Ariane (2) is a nice hull from TFL, the Hobbyking version comes badly undermotorized with (sub)standard hardware, delivered like this, it's aiming at the beginner who wants a stunning looking boat, but not the maximum performance.
Basically that's a good thing, as most people without any boating experience would reduce a high powered version to rubble in a matter of minutes.
In the comments on the HK site I found this: (my comments in red between brackets)
my best rc boat!
-totally carbon reinforcing
(no idea if he means adding carbon reinforments to the new hull, which is good, or talks about the stock carbon hull) -esc swordfish 220A 6S with datalogger
(nice ESC) -motor TP power 4060 1380KV
(a bit low for 6S, only 27000 rpm under load) -battery 2x 6S Bolt 5400
(most likely wired in parallel, wired in series would be insane, with over 50.000 rpm under load, very hard on the drivetrain) -total jeti telemetry
(nice if you know what too look for/at) Results 120km/h gps mesured.
(nothing to sneeze at, very good for a hull this size) little 106km/h video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRBLOhQMzD4 second:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rROeoJQxqQAs you can see a similar set-up as I suggested.
Too bad the weight of the camera on the nose hasn't been compensated with weight in the rear, so despite the tons of power, the boat runs crap (too wet) and can't be run full throttle without it getting very unstable, rookie mistake.
Understand that in spite of the carbon hull of the version 2, it still needs beefing up if you're going to install a lot more power, as the bottom section will flex under load, reeking havoc on the running attitude.
A couple of carbon rods, glassed in the hull, reinforcing the large unsupported flat parts of the rear of the hull is probably sufficient.
Paul (785boater) on the RCG forum has built up the glass version and he reinforces most of his hulls in this way.
Depending on how the hull is built, personally I always add a layer of glasscloth and epoxy inside a bare hull to avoid gelcoat cracking on cheaply built Chinese hulls.
Regards, Jan.