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Author Topic: Plastic Holes  (Read 1536 times)

old_gunner

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Plastic Holes
« on: August 29, 2017, 07:01:47 pm »

Any advice on drilling plastic, I have a few hundred holes to make in the USS Gato's deck and even with spraying the drill bit with WD40  I still have a problem. <:(
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Brian60

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2017, 07:15:10 pm »

slowest speed possible, I would try one of the small hand held screwdrivers with a mini chuck, only a few hundred revs, but that still could be too fast and melt the plastic.

ballastanksian

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2017, 08:29:22 pm »

How big are the holes? If not too large then I drill a smaller hole and then ream it out by twisting a round file in the hole to open it out. I did it three times today at work. Then carefully shave the ring of plastic off. Twist both ways so the file does not dig in.

 
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Capt Podge

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2017, 09:16:25 pm »

Also, along with what Ian suggests, if you have access to both sides ream both ways for a nice even slotted hole - good luck with your endeavours and above all take your time, it's worth it. O0

Regards,

Ray.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2017, 10:01:36 am »

An awful lot of years ago a mate needed to drill about 3500 1mm holes accurately in a sheet of perspex for his model railway control panel (to poke fiber optic light guides through).  Two holes and three bits in, a rethink.  Another of his mates made him an "elephantus", (??) which was a block with a vertical hole at one end that was a close fit on an electric hand drill and a cut-out to allow the bit to be seen.  The drill was run through a PWM controller at very low speed, and water was used as a lubricant and coolant.  He still had most of the rest of the pack of 10 drill bits at the end of the job.  Sharp bit, low speed, keep it cool, don't consider hand holding, fine bits won't live through it.
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deadbeat

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2017, 12:53:17 pm »

I drilled out about 1600 holes in my 1/570 scale Revell RMS Queen Mary, it took so many firstly of course for the port holes but I also opened up the rectangular windows along the sides using three holes per window then making them rectangular with a needle file. The drill I used was 0.5mm bit with a manual spiral drill (EXPO make). It took ages but well worth it as I wanted to put lights in the ship. I think I only broke one bit. Stabbed myself a few times though.

Patience and slow speed is key here. Had I used any form of powered drill I don't think I would have been able to place the bit as accurately on the hull side or without slipping on start up.

Good luck.
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grendel

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2017, 01:34:27 pm »

I had a similar issue, 0.8mm holes, but through stainless steel, HSS drills barely touched it, so I went for PCB drills, these are tungsten carbide and can be bought in 0.1mm increments from 0.1mm, they work in a power drill (dremel) at speed and go through stainless steel like a knife through butter, at times I have a little archimedes drill handle that you push down to rotate the bit manually.
The only reason I recommend the pcb drills is that they have quite a short bit (10mm) that then fattens out to hold in the drill, this allows for less breakages.
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barriew

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2017, 02:17:18 pm »

Lubricate the area with water not WD40 - it helps remove the heat - and slow speed is the way I now do it.


Barrie
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SteamboatPhil

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2017, 03:15:13 pm »

I used cold tea when I had to drill a lot of various sizes hole in some 1/4 (6mm for modern peeps) perspex and had no problems  :-))
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nemesis

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2017, 06:46:38 pm »

this sounds crude, try saliva, it has the correct viscosity and claggyness to stay where it is put, nemesis
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tigertiger

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2017, 02:25:40 am »

I use a hand operated pin-vice/jeweler's drill for fine work. Total control, very precise, very cheap, and probably not that much slower.
Like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yakamoz-Keyless-Woodworking-Precision-Jewelry/dp/B07236M4X9/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1504142471&sr=8-7&keywords=jewellery+drill
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grendel

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #11 on: August 31, 2017, 01:32:57 pm »

the one I have goes through everything up to brass quite easily, plus it doesnt skitter around when starting the hole like a power drill can.
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ballastanksian

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2017, 06:51:04 pm »

this sounds crude, try saliva, it has the correct viscosity and claggyness to stay where it is put, nemesis

I agree. I use saliva to lubricate my tools when sculpting Milliput. It is just right. I have tried tin lids with dampened tissue, sponge and a cheap soldering sponge over time but always go back to saliva.

Back to drills, I always recommend buying repacement drills up to .75mm in packs as they do get used more regularly (well I do  :} ) The sets are a good pont to start with, but you will always end up with lots of the same size of drills left. Its a bit like the coffee creams left over at Christmas but less chewy  :-))
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old_gunner

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Re: Plastic Holes
« Reply #13 on: August 31, 2017, 07:06:28 pm »

The item being drilled is the rear deck of the Revell Gato class and like Zulu's at Rorkes Drift "there fousands of em" However have taken onboard the sugestions and will use the hand powered tool so will take drill and deck with me on my next Saudi visit on account of drilling holes is one of the few fun things you can legally do in the magic kingdom.

Thank you for all your help.
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