Masterclasses > General Havelock

General Havelock by Bryan Young

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Bryan Young:
Well, some of you asked for a diary of this build: so against my better judgement , here goes.
Part one of heaven knows how many.
Thought I would begin with a sort of drawing of what it should eventually look like.
If you can get hold of a copy of a book entitled "Coastal & Short Sea Liners" by C.V.Waine  (your local library can probably borrow a copy for you) you will be astounded by the wealth of information this author has put together. There are plans by the hundreds. The downside is that all (or the vast majority) are printed at around 7" x 5". Having been smitten by the odd-ball aspects of "Leona" (as she was originally) it became a steep learning curve to enlarge this little drawing from 7" to the 51" I wanted. I could have taken the drawing to a pro. copying shop, but as I had never done anything like this before I decided to have a go myself. (With permission from Mr. Waine).
I struggled with the sizing and everything and eventually managed to produce a correctly scaled drawing on a gazillion sheets of A4 paper that I had to put together like a jigsaw. About a week I guess from start to completion. I never realised how much Selotape costs nowadays!

Bryan Young:
This is all getting very complicated.
Mr.Waines book does not always do hull drawings. So I had to do my own. Utilising a similar, if larger, vessel I "computerised" the lines to fit the size of "Havelock".  Time consuming but also an education in scaling and proportioning.  Although counter sterns are beautiful to look at they are a real pain in the tripes to model. Should have been banned before they were invented!
The bow is easy. But as Balsa is so expensive these days I have come to use the very high density foam that double-glazing window units use as a protection. For Balsa, read Foam. Same job, same result.
"Frames" and backbone for the plug are standard procedure with (possibly) the difference being that I make everything the same height. That is, from building board to keel...I am an upside-down builder. The "frames" are marked and slotted to take a length of 2mm ply. This gives an accurate sheer line and a good flange for the mould...trimming thereafter is easy.

Bryan Young:
Showing how "gappy" the plug planking can be if it is to be long as the hull is smooth, that is.

Bryan Young:
Plating completed with the exception of the 2 half round rubbing strakes. The stern is not "bent" by the way..just the camera angle!The "notch" in the keel will eventyally take the bottom part of the removable alluminium stern-frame.

Bryan Young:
The plug waxed and ready for the gel-coat. This will be grey to give a contrast with the white plating and also, later, to give a contrast to the black gel I will use for the final hull. The rubbing strakes are visible here as are the large cargo/animal doors. The barrier between the 2 halves is primarily a length of 1" aluminium angle with 2mm ply attached to it (double sided tape again) around the fiddly bits. The odd gaps being filled/sealed with plasticene. No.17 is the final split mould..warts and all. The top part shows the mould after the remnants of some of the plates have been peeled off exposing a couple of faults that will need filling while the bottom part shows how it looked when separated from the plug. It looks a mess, but the plates peel off very easily leaving (hopefully) a nice finish.


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