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Author Topic: Totnes Castle 1884  (Read 13724 times)

hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #125 on: July 26, 2018, 05:43:24 PM »

Continuing with the separator. For anyone who is not familiar with a separator. The feed tube goes in to the top about 3/8" & the exit tube about a 1/4". So the oil & water can not turn quick enough & falls to the bottom. The empty tube touches the bottom & is normally shut off. When opened & exit shut off, steam will empty contents. Of course I still have the bottom to braze on.
The photo on window board, also shows my granddaughters steam engine, made for me.  She works as a welder, specialising in stainless steel. Proud granddad. 
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #126 on: July 26, 2018, 11:43:57 PM »

With a Son in the welding business.....and a Grand Daughter in the welding business....you should get them into Professional boiler making for the model industry

[From memory, there is a British Steam Model supply Company that advertises nationally and attends the string of Model Shows, and their registered Boilermaker is a Red headed young Lady :kiss: ]

You must understandably be that Proud old Grand Dad  O0

Derek
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #127 on: July 27, 2018, 08:57:50 AM »

Gday Derek. Your memory is a bit like mine. Son is refrigeration engineer, & my silver solder supplier. It is the great grand daughter who has red hair, only 2 years old, she is in to demolition.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #128 on: July 28, 2018, 10:01:50 AM »

 Separator completed.  Engine room layout. A very tight fit, will be challenging to operate. The servo for regulator control will be under the forward saloon stairs. There is a bolt into the regulator through the baulkhead. Silicone pipe joining the exhaust copper, exiting up what on original, was the safety valve exit. Normal model practice is for exhaust inside the funnel. I have found this can but the flame out, when excess water runs down into fire tube. True steam out the funnel looks good but only shows on cold days. The copper steam feed pipes need connections made, & lagged. The brass circle will be the oiler. Gas pipe to make. When that is finished it will be test time on the bench. Sh*t or bust😱😱
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #129 on: August 05, 2018, 10:48:55 PM »

I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now.  The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear.   Well thats the theory.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #130 on: August 06, 2018, 02:31:44 AM »

Morning RGY...

I think this is the first time we have seen the hull in such a view as understanding her bulk....without a plan could it be approximately 0.8 as a block co-efficient? which is high value :D

She will need certainly need some ballast to bring her down to her lines......have you made any bath trials for a displacement?

Shall we start a guessing competition?.....if so, my 1st best guess is.....~~~12kg  ;) displacement

Derek.............
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Derek Warner

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Brian60

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #131 on: August 06, 2018, 08:21:16 AM »

Didn't Hammer mention earlier on that he had to increase the depth of the hull to locate everything? I'm sure it was mentioned some place, that is why the hull looks too deep in this photo, but on the water will not be noticable.

hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #132 on: August 06, 2018, 10:10:10 AM »

Yes Brian I did  give an explanation. But every thing is up for change until itís done. Right as usual Derek. It is deep for a paddler. However a cargo ship would have a depth like this. I did start with a 1.5ins extra depth. Then I found if half an inch more I could squeeze in the 4ins boiler with out increasing the scale, as a 5 & 6ft I already have. Paddlers that is. I also intend to complete the fit out of the saloons, there will be room beneth for the control gear.  Thatís why is important where the WC is going. Weight one c.w.t. Is my guess. Now I am worried the engine won,t be strong enough.
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #133 on: August 06, 2018, 11:49:54 AM »

When we were at primary school you know half penny bits & Bakers tokens etc.... O0   & ....a C.W.T was 112 pounds ...........that's a lot of displacement for the paddler I see on the bench................. ok2.... Derek

[112 Pounds = 50.802345 Kilograms  (rounded to 8 digits)  {-) ]....certainly makes my guess of 12 kg look a little lean.........
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #134 on: August 06, 2018, 12:59:10 PM »

Still on oz- lbs- cwt & ton. Bushalls & pecks. Donít worry will do a test for you. Did one to see any leaks only. Trouble is water is short here as it has not rained & itís so hot. Almost like OZ !
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #135 on: August 06, 2018, 01:47:16 PM »

My maths says  1 kilo. Thatís my guess. Maths not my strong point. But nearer than 12 I hope.
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Netleyned

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #136 on: August 06, 2018, 03:54:36 PM »

1kilo?


Ned
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #137 on: August 06, 2018, 04:19:16 PM »

Have a guess Ned ? ?
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Netleyned

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #138 on: August 06, 2018, 04:55:40 PM »

Looking at her big belly,
I would hazard a guess
at the same weight as my
working Lakeland terrier
who's fighting weight is
6.9 Kilos just over a stone
to us 40's children.


Ned
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #139 on: August 09, 2018, 08:20:16 PM »

Ned takes the prize as nearest estimate. The grand kids came to stay, had a bath. So I took the opportunity to do a float test. Total weight down to water line.******* 5 kilo******* This includes 1 kilo lead ballast. Not that fat after all.  So I am claiming second for getting the ballast right, which is what I was referring to of course.   
The four profiles, included on the wall top Glen Usk only 1.5 ins draft.(true scale I didn't know better). I had to resort to a lead rudder hanging down half way between bow & paddles, 6"+ 2". Even with this I still had to mount radio + pressure control batteries on a swigging platform. Flying her like a plane aileron control on second stick. The larger Duke of Devonshire has 2" draft & a 2.5 twin tube boiler keeping CofG lower Still tender but sails with internal ballast. So Totnes Castle at 2.25" draft should be ok after floatation test proved positive.     
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #140 on: August 09, 2018, 10:19:39 PM »

Hold on...hold on........with my poor eyesight :o, I have set the magnification on my mini computer set  up by 100%

So my 12 kg after all things being reconsidered is really only 6 kg  {-)......so I claim second prize ......a close runner behind Ned   
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #141 on: August 10, 2018, 08:26:28 AM »

Ok call it a draw, if you must. {-)
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #142 on: August 13, 2018, 11:36:16 AM »

Paddle boxes well on the way just the face to do on both. Note they are bolted to the hull & are removable for maintenance. Yes I do use plastic if I get it cheep.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #143 on: August 21, 2018, 10:37:44 AM »

Still working on paddle box. waiting for glue to dry. So finished the companion ways. Open & shut. Also the platform for helmsman. P.S. the scupper only had one coat of paint grain must be filled.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #144 on: August 26, 2018, 11:33:32 AM »

Feed up with wood work, so started on the helm. Making it in brass as it was popular with later paddlers. If an older one like T.C. would have had wood I not know.
Start with a 1" brass rod, turn the end so. Then divide for the spokes, using my home made arrangement. A change wheel fixed to back end of main shaft. In this case 40, for 8 divisions, marked with a pointed tool. I have no cross drill accurate enough to fit tool post, I will remove to mill to drill holes, the back to part off.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #145 on: August 27, 2018, 05:02:38 PM »

Holes drilled spokes cut & fitted, stuck with super glue. Don't want silver from solder showing. I made a mistake, should have drilled the holes before removing the waste. The drill kept skidding side ways off the centre boss. Should have just cut a grove around the boss, to see how things where going. Any way got over that. Skimming off the boss so the spokes lay level. Then made a cap to fit over them. Note the cocktail stick keeping holes aligned. Drill this out when complete. Marked the handles for length in the lathe. cut & file them before patting off.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #146 on: August 29, 2018, 10:04:12 AM »

Helm finished & fixed, the completion just simple turning & polishing job. A spigot left on the bottom for hole in deck.
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #147 on: August 29, 2018, 02:16:25 PM »

Awesome craftsmanship *takes deep bow*
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #148 on: August 29, 2018, 05:14:51 PM »

From Switzerland that is a compliment thank you.
On to the railings. I am using striped electrical wire. Free & easy to solder, and different sizes. The only drawback it is a little soft. The hardest job is getting it straight. This is done in vice & between fingers.( fingers not in vice) I also flatten the stanchions where rails cross. The long silver is the flagstaff at the bow, half way along the section being made.   Held in a jig to solder, saw cut hold stanchions & nails stretch rails. The tape was to hold rails against stanchions. This was not needed as I pushed them down with a screwdriver as I removed the soldering iron.
Sorry I rotated the photo & the rails are strange. but never mind as soldered & clipped photo coming.
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Brian60

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #149 on: August 29, 2018, 06:02:17 PM »

To get your wire straight, stick it in the vice, wrap the other end around a stick and have somebody apply tension to it. Then strum the wire a few times with your finger, as they pull you will hear the tension increase by the sound of the 'twang'. A couple times like this and it will be perfectly straight.
The other way to do it is like above but play a flame along it instead, this straightens and also hardens the copper ( as you said its a bit soft) only problem is you then need to lay it along the workbench and run sandpaper over it to remove the scale, otherwise it won't solder.
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