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Author Topic: Totnes Castle 1884  (Read 13778 times)

Brian60

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #25 on: November 17, 2017, 11:24:28 AM »

I've never been able to 'imagine' how the hull plate plan works in real life, as usual I'm probably going about it all wrong :embarrassed: Hammer forget the tin opener, hammer and chisel, tinsnips or whatever. Use a good pair of sharp scissors! They do a far cleaner edge and neater finish than any of the others. I used my wife's dress making scissor ( to me they were just scissors left lying in the craft room :embarrassed: ) Of course they did a fantastic job of cutting up tin cans for what I was doing, but it meant I had to shell out for new scissors {-)

hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #26 on: November 17, 2017, 12:58:58 PM »

So its a new tin opener or new scissors then.
Taken a rest from tinning.  Cut strips off a 6+7/8 board & stuck them back together. I found the paint stuck the narrow strips ok. But to be on the safe side I mixed acrylic black paint into P.V.A. glue. Monday slice them down 1/16".
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Steve Mahoney

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #27 on: November 19, 2017, 11:26:31 PM »

Are you using printers' litho plate for the 'tin'?
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #28 on: November 20, 2017, 02:10:53 PM »

Thanks for the reply Steve. I have used litho plate on model aircraft in the past. If I remember, I don't think it can be soldered, I may be wrong. With modern print methods its difficult to get free now. In the photo of the garboard strakes on the armature you will see the fence preserver tins I am using.
Over the weekend I had been thinking maybe it would be easer to epoxy the plates together. Having almost finished the 2 bottom strakes I will continue soldering. Finding it easer with each plate, as I learn, little tricks. Cleaning the plates with a sanding drum (dermal), keep the plate flat on the bench. Otherwise the plate will cruel up and destroy the sand paper. Don't put to much solder on the iron, or I get lumps of solder as it runs down. I am now holding the plates in place with masking tape. That is working well.
The deck planking has been cut down to 3/32" thick, now have plenty at the right scale. Marking the nails & joints in pen I am very pleased.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #29 on: November 21, 2017, 03:23:06 PM »

Used a brass rod at the bow nailed to the wooden keelson. Which will stay in the hull, along with the stem, stern post, bulkheads, and the cover board. Soldered a tube to the stern post to take the rudder stock. Finished the garboard strakes and the keel. Decided not to follow full size practice, with alternate inner and outer strakes. Will be laying them like a clinker build. Two reasons first will make it easier, second looking down at the model any wide joint will not show as much. No more post on plating, unless there are an questions. I may start on the boiler it will be square and made from water pipe. That should cause some comments if any steam men are watching.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #30 on: November 24, 2017, 05:07:13 PM »

Well no steam men watching, or they all know to how build a square boiler. Or is every one to shy to ask.
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Tafelspitz

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #31 on: November 27, 2017, 10:42:23 AM »

I guess you will know what you're doing  ;)
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We live in a society exquisitely dependent on science and technology, in which hardly anyone knows anything about science and technology.  Carl Sagan

hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #32 on: November 27, 2017, 04:35:24 PM »

Sometimes I know what I am doing but not often. I am pushing the boundaries with this one. Not the boiler but the plating. The square boiler superseded now. But the plan was to build a water tube boiler fitted in a square firebox. Similar to that below just a better tube arrangement. This can be seen steaming on Youtube, Search, Duke of Devonshire engine. The problem was not a lot of water so required a pump. At the time I was my first own design. I thought it didn't supply enough steam for the engine, stopping after 10 minutes run. I didn't know at the time less steam would be used under load. So would have worked but by that time I have made a convectional boiler.   The reason for this change of plan, I managed to find an offcut of 103mm copper tube on Ebay. At 9.99 free postage only 200cm long plenty. The cheapest found before for 300cm 54 plus p&p. that but me off the original plan. So back to the original 100mm + 103mm normal fire tube boiler. The only snag will need to make the hull 15mm deeper, no problem just extend the plating that much when I get to the top.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #33 on: November 28, 2017, 09:43:51 AM »

Found a photo of the water tube boiler in its jacket.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #34 on: December 04, 2017, 02:58:06 PM »

I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
My friend Derek mentioned earlier, the class distinction forward & aft. With a toilet in the forward saloon on the starboard side. Looking at the portholes (green Arrow) there must be one on the port side also, must be ladies & gents. I have come to the conclusion this must be the bar. Definitely second class.   
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #35 on: December 05, 2017, 11:48:30 AM »

Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW!
The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
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hama

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #36 on: December 06, 2017, 06:25:51 AM »

Thanks for sharing this, very interesting way of making a hull!
Hama
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Brian60

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #37 on: December 06, 2017, 08:30:40 AM »

Will there be insulation under the firebox? Just thinking the heat may desolder your joints

derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #38 on: December 06, 2017, 09:10:45 AM »

Yes, as always I am watching  %) %) %)...

But understand a coat of spray primer [to undo the razeldazel] must wait until a technical water tightness of these soldered joints can proceed :kiss:

By the time these electronic images get to OZ ....the hull looks like something from a pointy ended steel fruit box {-)........

The location of the Head .....by the Fwd Section is of no consequence  :o ....if 2nd Class passenger's had access to the Bar well good luck to them :-))

I do await your daily posts....it is also little point me responding on another WEB site....

Derek
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Derek Warner

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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #39 on: December 06, 2017, 09:19:17 AM »

Its very nice to get a reply post thanks. A very good point Brian. I was only going to rely on the wooden strips around the boiler. Of course once in the water no problem, but getting steam up it could be disaster. I will now use a piece of soldering mat under the boiler. Now the photo shows how tight a fit the boiler is, luckily the boiler room has a razed centre section.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #40 on: December 06, 2017, 09:21:41 AM »

Sorry about that copy cat R.G.Y.  I can't stop him Derek. {-)
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #41 on: December 07, 2017, 10:37:07 AM »

That's all for a will, as its a good time to stop, with the hull complete. Derek I won't be getting rid of the razzle-dazzle for a long time yet, remember the duke, 115232 views & rising.
I have managed to repair my milling machine, taken two months, wires knotted all over the place. Now my lathe has stopped, going to be buzzy.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #42 on: January 01, 2018, 12:01:50 PM »

So much to do so little time. Repaired both my mill & lathe. So I will be concentrating on my traction engine. Plus repairs to my trawler, pilot cutter and a better rudder on Irene. (see Irene post) On top of all that I am not happy with the hull for Totnes Castle. To heavy & altered the shape to fit boiler, will be scraped start again one day.   
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #43 on: January 01, 2018, 11:46:15 PM »

Welcome to 2018 my friend........trust you and yours will find the new year safe & happy :-))....naturally will be following on with each of your thread builds..............Derek

PS....what was wrong with the lathe?......... <*<
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Derek Warner

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Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #44 on: January 02, 2018, 12:10:06 PM »

Thank you Derek. The words are resipucated to you.
NexT
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Steve Mahoney

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #45 on: January 02, 2018, 07:28:01 PM »

That's a shame, and a big call to stop the build but I know how it feels when you think something just isn't right.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #46 on: January 05, 2018, 03:40:55 PM »

Sorry Derek you asked what was wrong with the lathe. I have not been up to much the last 3 weeks breathing difficult but O.K. now.  Well both my mill & lathe are of Chinese origin, although the P.C. boards are from the U.S.A. Tracking the fault can be a problem as the wires are just a rats nest, & no diagram was supplied. Following from the supply found it quickly on the lathe in the voltage conversion board. A loose connection sorted. Good as this board cost about 90, in U.K.
The mill had a dagram, nothing like the rats nest. Found the fault in the speed control board this time.  Un-repairable new
board. 150 in U.K. with p&p plus tax. You now how much I hate spending money.
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hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #47 on: January 24, 2018, 09:18:42 AM »

Decided to have another go at this one. I was very disappointed when I had finished the tin plate. Not very even & lots of spots & runs of solder. Started to sand these off. would have taken for ever. So gave up, then I remembered seeing my father wipe a lead joint. That was when water pipes where lead. I covered a cloth in coking fat, as I never had any tallow. Using small pencil torch, wiped it clean in ten minuets. Filled the hollows, also removed the top strake in the section that's straight replacing with ply. That saved top weight. Now I am happy.   
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Brian60

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #48 on: January 24, 2018, 01:17:57 PM »

Its looking ok in that photo mate, main thing is you have salvaged it! You'r in Devon and can't get tallow with all those sheep!

Talking of which,  a couple years ago my brother was driving a truck in west yorkshire, came to a right hand bend which he knew was sharp so slowed right down. Then lost all steering and truck went straight on through a ditch and into a field. He had to be cut from the cab, unfortunately he had on the back a pump for emptying porta toilets on building sites - the fire brigade loved him for that one {-)

Anyway investigation showed, that close to the bend was a factory that processed wool and sheep hide, extracting the tallow from it, the tallow being a waste product was poured into open skips. The skip lorry came along, picked it up and it being open topped, sloshed all over the road at the corner. Both companies were done by the H&S executive.

hammer

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Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #49 on: January 26, 2018, 03:24:54 PM »

fitted the bulkheads each end of engine room. finding the shape with card & compass. pictures self explanatory.
glued the planks ( shown made above) onto the  sub deck. The timber around inside the hull will be the scuppers. the sub deck fits inside & the planks on top, leaving 3/8th" exposed. The home made gauge marking this.
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