Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 6 7   Go Down

Author Topic: Totnes Castle 1884  (Read 27808 times)

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #50 on: February 02, 2018, 11:16:43 am »

Finished the deck marked 7 varnished, will be put to one side now. Starting on the engineering next, well sort of? The bearing housing from wood, but as this is a prototype change of plan. Making them as small as I can still a tight fit in side the wheel. So will be letting them into the side of the hull, with a brass plate over. Plate bolted from inside that is the plan. every thing has to removable.
Loaded the 103mm tube in the lathe, as you can see pushing it to the limit. I have fitted an computer fan on the motor, rotating slow, the motor fan is not strong. I burnt 2 motors before this mod. I may just score it finish with a hack saw. The big decision place to cut.
Logged

Brian60

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3,315
  • Location: Hull,UK-but currently residing in Los Martinez, Spain.
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #51 on: February 02, 2018, 04:12:58 pm »

Cor, you don't throw anything away do you. I remember those compasses from primary school 57 years ago! :embarrassed: I like the novel approach to holding the cylinder in the lathe, I think I would be wary about trying to turn that at any speed on such a small lathe. I think you are right to do it with a hacksaw, although I would turn the lathe head by hand and just lightly score it with the tool to make sure the cut was plumb. Leave it in the lathe to use the hacksaw, just move the toolpost way down the bed for clearance -  I mean cut by hand with no power applied! I have seen (and been guilty of) turning on the power and holding the hacksaw against the workpiece, albeit mine was small diameter rod not tube.

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #52 on: February 02, 2018, 07:29:20 pm »

Your right Brian, scoring won,t be a problem it’s when it breaks through. That would stall it.
Yes I never throw any thing away.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #53 on: February 07, 2018, 09:24:32 am »

New arrangement of bearings. Drilled hole with brace & bit ( brutal ) did the job though. The outer bearing bedded in silicone, Stainless plate & shaft fixed temporary wile silicon sets. Fixing perfect alignment. The inner bearing clear of plate & inner hull.  The screws in the plate will be replaced with studs through to the inside. Secured with nuts so it all can be removed if necessary.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #54 on: February 09, 2018, 10:51:52 am »

Tube for boiler cut, mostly with hack saw then cleaned up in lathe. The big dot the funnel, small dot safety valve positions.
Made studs & nuts 5BA. brazed to plate. What next?
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #55 on: February 13, 2018, 04:32:18 pm »

Pictured the fire tube mock up. I will try the burner (one off another boiler) to see if the flame stays alight. As the straight section is shorter than I have had before. this will be my 7th boiler. Another trouble I have had keeping the flame in the funnel. This was with a 22mm fire tube, needed a number 3 gas jet for this. but unobtainable. Never had trouble with 28mm & number 5 jet.
This might upset a few so what. The boiler rules H & S gone mad. For a rail engine boiler up around 100psi hauling passengers yes agreed. But for a small boiler at 25psi NO. Also if it runs dry, with the burners used the silver solder will never melt.  Try making a boiler with a normal gas torch imposable, even a MAPP burner needs the boiler insulated. What happened to the 3 bar litre rule. I just believe home made boilers are not wanted any more.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #56 on: February 14, 2018, 11:07:49 am »

I thought that little rant would have got a response.
Logged

Tafelspitz

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 514
  • Model Boat Bedlam
  • Location: Basel, Switzerland
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #57 on: February 15, 2018, 07:10:06 am »

I have no idea what you're doing, or talking about mostly, so just curiously and silently watching in awe  :embarrassed:
Logged
We live in a society exquisitely dependent on science and technology, in which hardly anyone knows anything about science and technology.  Carl Sagan

Brian60

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3,315
  • Location: Hull,UK-but currently residing in Los Martinez, Spain.
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #58 on: February 15, 2018, 07:32:52 am »

I thought that little rant would have got a response.

I understand your frustration. Its always seemed overkill to test model size boilers the same as full size boilers and of course with the kind of costs involved to have it tested. One of the reasons why I have never bothered with live steam, even though I have the skills to build one.

I've often wondered would it be worth doing it and sailing it on open water when there are no other boaters around? Nobody to ask questions and only you to see any calamity and ship sinking should it go wrong.

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #59 on: February 17, 2018, 10:35:53 am »

Don't worry Tafel I don't know ether.
Brian although I have a friend who tests my boilers ( he is a rail man). My sailing club has never asked to see a certificate, & I do have public liability. So no problem. It is just strange the Power Boat Ass osiation, is more stringent than the Engineering Society. Oh dear I have left a space in association!
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #60 on: February 17, 2018, 10:42:38 am »

Enough of that. Brazed up the fire tube. Two fins on the end by the burner, to compensate for the lack of cross tubes in this area. Cross tubes here will disrupted the burner. The next job silver solder in the cross tubes, cut in photo.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #61 on: February 19, 2018, 08:56:11 pm »

Cross tubes silver soldered in. Hole in tube drilled (cone drill). The remainder of the tube cut and flattened out for end caps.
Logged

Tafelspitz

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 514
  • Model Boat Bedlam
  • Location: Basel, Switzerland
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #62 on: February 20, 2018, 01:43:02 pm »

Wow, this looks like the plumbing in our closet  ;)
Logged
We live in a society exquisitely dependent on science and technology, in which hardly anyone knows anything about science and technology.  Carl Sagan

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #63 on: February 25, 2018, 01:45:58 pm »

I fixed the sponsons on some time ago. they are supported by ali strips cut worktop jointers. Need to be strong as that's where paddles are lifted. Picked out a selection of gears from scrap box(never throw anything). These are for the drive between engine & shaft need about 3 to 1 reduction. The spare engine I had is a little bit big, so a new one coming.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #64 on: February 26, 2018, 10:05:22 am »

The paddles are a bit of a problem. Original made from angle iron, not available at this scale. Wouldn't be strong enough any way. I have found some old knitting needles, in my rubbish. Not the right shape but very strong.  The hub is made in 3 the centre will have a grub screw to hold it all in place. The reduced inner on this will rest on the bearing stopping sideways movement.  The 2 hexagonal pieces silver soldered to spokes & soft soldered to hub that's the plan. The wooden discs will be tuned true & used to build the wheel on.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #65 on: February 27, 2018, 11:39:52 am »

A repeat photo of the shaft with hubs. The reason the stainless strips of metal, taken from windscreen wiper(never throw anything). These will form the circular parts of the wheel.
Started the end caps for boiler. using a wooden former as that's all I had, no steel big enough. Annealed to flatten the tube, Annealed again start of flange, annealed again now in the citric acid.   
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #66 on: March 05, 2018, 09:55:04 am »

the boiler continues in STEAM R&D under my 7th boiler.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #67 on: April 17, 2018, 03:44:17 pm »

The boiler now finished so back here. It just fits had to cut 3/16" off each side of the deck surround to get it in plenty of room when in.  The engine I intended to use will not fit however. So will be making a smaller version, or a completely new design. depending what metal I have in stock.   With the deck in place another tight fit. The safety valve will stay at this angle. But  the connector angled,  to bring the funnel central & upright with a slight rake aft.  If that makes sense. 
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #68 on: April 20, 2018, 10:26:38 am »

As this is being designed as I go a little problem, how to drill holes in the bulkhead near the bottom. A long rod of the right diameter had a flat filed on the end. Filed to the centre at the end tapering to nothing about half an inch long. Drill as flat as possible, from both sides, this gives a elongated hole but dose the job. In the photo the rod is bent wrong as I am not holding the drill.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #69 on: May 03, 2018, 09:42:36 am »

First off a plan showing both elevations, I had cut off the external in the original post.  This to show the funnel. 
Funnel made from an old hospital walking stick. The aluminium at 1/8th thick, so I turned it down to 1/16th, leaving the rings. Fixed to the boiler at vertical with the correct rake astern.  The photos don't give that impression. But it is all correct, honest.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #70 on: May 05, 2018, 05:57:53 pm »

Started on the boiler room roof. Cardboard patterns, with skylight & access hatch drawn in. The tinplate marked out, rivets punched, folded & soldered on the corners.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #71 on: May 08, 2018, 12:15:26 pm »

Cut the tinplate & scored the bends inside. As this represents steel or more likely iron. I have represented rivets. Now the clock wheel method has never worked for me. So my method, a block of wood with a row of self punching panel pins. that is the reason for the photo. pins with conical heads.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #72 on: May 12, 2018, 10:20:02 am »

Slow progress I am afraid, other things to do. Have soldered up the engine room roof. Need to fix angle along the bottom to keep it straight. Found brass angle in my stock, but it will have to be milled smaller & thinner.  Then the safety valve extension.
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #73 on: May 21, 2018, 10:19:00 am »

Change of plan, bent up tin plate angle to strengthen the sides on boiler room roof. Milling the brass would be wasteful I don't like waste.   Another thing I disliked was the safety valve not being upright. So made a angle fitting, turned the male end in normal manner & parted off. Set in pillar drill at the required angle drilled down to meet the hole from other end. Started tap wile still in drill (by hand) then completed with wrench. Threaded a bar to fit & attached fitting in lathe, turned so the safety valve fitted flat.     
Logged

hammer

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 569
  • Location: devon england
Re: Totnes Castle 1884
« Reply #74 on: May 24, 2018, 09:36:47 am »

Boiler complete just the pipe work to do when the engine installed. No clack feed as will remove safety valve to fill, & turn the boat over to empty, although there is a valve on the sight glass. Sorry about the shadow across the makers plate, which is level although doesn't look like it in photo.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 6 7   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.093 seconds with 22 queries.