Topic: Finally geting somewhere (Read 6230 times)

Tug Fanatic · « **Reply #75 on:** February 06, 2020, 10:17:15 am »

A little information would help.

1. What is the material that you are fitting windows into & how thick is it?
2. What sort of windows - a picture?

PS I hate windows!!! Mine never satisfy me.

DaveM · « **Reply #76 on:** February 06, 2020, 10:28:06 am »

This method uses 0.5mm styrene for the frames and 0.7mm clear acetate sheet for the windows. The window panes are cut to fit exactly into the aperture while the frames "bridge" the gap. You could fit the frames either inside or outside. For adhesive I use very thin double-sided tape.

dave parker · « **Reply #77 on:** February 06, 2020, 10:45:06 am »

Sorry yes...

3mm ply cabin walls.

I have cut out the two front windows but jumped the gun and am not happy with the lines so am thinking I may laminate it with 1mm ply that I can cut straight with a Knife.

I was going to have a ledge on the inside in to which to fit the clear plastic/perspex bur as a said am not happy with the cut outs...

Tug Fanatic · « **Reply #78 on:** February 06, 2020, 12:16:49 pm »

Your 3mm sides make windows difficult as you have such a thick edge to hide.

I would also be aware of the c of g implications if you superstructure is anything other than very low.

dave parker · « **Reply #79 on:** February 06, 2020, 12:55:08 pm »

What thickness of timber should I have used for the cabin and structures??

Capt Podge · « **Reply #80 on:** February 06, 2020, 01:16:33 pm »

You could try cutting your 'glass' (acetate) slightly oversized then build the framework over it, 1mm wide should suffice.
Alternatively, use thin plastic strip for the frames.

You could do this on both the inner and outer of your cabin if you have access.

Regards,
Ray.

Tug Fanatic · « **Reply #81 on:** February 06, 2020, 01:52:28 pm »

Quote from: dave parker on February 06, 2020, 12:55:08 pm

What thickness of timber should I have used for the cabin and structures??

My choice is 1.5mm ply or 1mm Styrene and possibly even thinner high up but you might be perfectly OK with what you have unless you are planning a very high superstructure. It is easiest to paint the cut window edges before glazing if they will be seen afterwards. I find soft matt black/ dark grey takes the eye from a multitude of sins.

Tinted glazing helps remove the need for detail in the wheelhouse area and wheelhouse windows are normally tilted top out which also helps.

Remember that weight is more of a problem the higher you have it and that weight is much easier to add than lightness. Cruise liners are very aware of c of g issues.

dave parker · « **Reply #82 on:** February 06, 2020, 01:53:06 pm »

Yeah sounds good

Am now thinking about re making the cabin out of the 1.5mm ply I have and can strengthen inside corners if need to.

Less weight and easier for windows

Would 1.5mm suffice?

Tug Fanatic · « **Reply #83 on:** February 06, 2020, 02:13:17 pm »

1.5mm ply should be fine & yes reinforcing corners is a very good idea but there is no need for massive girders!

How large a superstructure are you planning?

dave parker · « **Reply #84 on:** February 06, 2020, 02:28:10 pm »

There are a few pics of the detail drawings at the beginning of this thread (I haven’t got them here with me)

Just a typical springer really

Tug Fanatic · « **Reply #85 on:** February 06, 2020, 04:32:06 pm »

Quote from: dave parker on February 06, 2020, 02:28:10 pm

There are a few pics of the detail drawings at the beginning of this thread (I haven’t got them here with me)

Just a typical springer really

OK. The "platform" will be fine in your 3mm but I would go thinner for the wheelhouse & you don't want cast iron (heavy) funnels! The thinner wheelhouse material has more to do with ease of construction & what it will look like than c of g although there are members here who know much more about Springer performance than I ever will.

dave parker · « **Reply #86 on:** February 06, 2020, 07:54:34 pm »

Sounds ideal plan

dave parker · « **Reply #87 on:** February 11, 2020, 08:09:50 am »

So... receiver
I am using a receiver as below and the manual says to keep the Ariel horizontal.

The Ariel is only about 25mm long and I would’ve expected it to come up through the cabin and out the roof for good reception?

What would you guys do??

Tug Fanatic · « **Reply #88 on:** February 11, 2020, 08:32:54 am »

The length of the aerial is critical to the operation of the receiver. Don't cut off or add bits!

Keep the receiver as high as you can (on a shelf at deck level in the cut out?) and certainly above water level. As far as is practical keep it away from the esc and motor. I know that this sounds impossible but do the best that you can.

The advantage of a model boat is that you will normally operate within a couple of hundred feet of the transmitter whilst in a plane you can be much further away.

dave parker · « **Reply #89 on:** February 11, 2020, 08:59:01 am »

Yeah I understand, and as I thought but wanted to check

This is the expected location of the receiver

Tug Fanatic · « **Reply #90 on:** February 11, 2020, 09:18:44 am »

Will the batteries lie flat on their backs rather than on an edge? It would make the c of g lower which is always a good thing.

dave parker · « **Reply #91 on:** February 11, 2020, 09:45:43 am »

No they are too large

JimG · « **Reply #92 on:** February 11, 2020, 12:29:29 pm »

Quote from: dave parker on February 11, 2020, 08:09:50 am

So... receiver
I am using a receiver as below and the manual says to keep the Ariel horizontal.

The Ariel is only about 25mm long and I would’ve expected it to come up through the cabin and out the roof for good reception?

What would you guys do??

If the transmitter has a folding aerial than most tend to use it in the horizontal position. (Many of the lower priced ones have an internal aerial which tend to be in the handle and therefore horizontal.) The signal from a horizontal transmitter aerial will give the best results with a horizontal receiver aerial. If you use the transmitter aerial in the vertical position then fit the receiver with the aerial vertical. As 2.4 GHz signals are absorbed by water then keep the aerial as high in the boat as possible, try building a platform to bring it above deck level and inside the superstructure.

Jim

dave parker · « **Reply #93 on:** February 14, 2020, 07:11:40 pm »

Few updated pictures for review and comment

Gardener · « **Reply #94 on:** February 15, 2020, 10:01:21 am »

Coming along well !

Tug Fanatic · « **Reply #95 on:** February 15, 2020, 10:08:24 am »

That is looking really good. You model very nicely.

dave parker · « **Reply #96 on:** February 15, 2020, 12:24:29 pm »

Thanks for the comments

Am really enjoying it

Next to paint inside just for cleanliness and then on to the pushers

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Author Topic: Finally geting somewhere (Read 6230 times)