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[Taranis]

Never mind your head Mark 
I think the overwhelming feeling of being jealous is what I’m experiencing here. I don’t feel that way very often     Quite exhilarating

[Mark T]

Hi All


Sorry about this but this post is going to be quite picture heavy as things have been moving along nicely.


Firstly I carried on with the superstructure and fitted the wheelhouse floor.  There are no location points for this big part so I drilled 3 - 1mm brass rods through once I was happy with its location.  This made fitting and gluing a cinch and I removed them once the glue was dry





In my quest to get as much air into the hull as possible I open up an aperture into the bulkhead as it will have portholes in front of it.  Every little helps!





Next I had to remake the front of the superstructure.  I only had to make the lower half as I will be using the top half





And then I lost my photo's again     So here is the superstructure with the front fitted and also the port side corner curved edge done too.








Now I can't do anymore to the superstructure as I have run out of wood and I'm waiting on a delivery which I hope may be here tomorrow.  So I got on with getting the hull finished.  First thing was to mask it up and get a few coats of polyurethane onto the top side





I then drilled the holes out for the anchor chains and also made some small canisters out of 6mm brass for the chains to drop into











And then it was a case of putting it all together.  I fitted the anchors, all of the bollards on the forecastle deck and the windlass and anchor chains.























I also fitted the scupper plate covers which hinge up and down








And finally for today here's how its looking all together so far











So tomorrow I'll move up to the wheelhouse I think and start to get that moving 


Cheers Mark 

[david48]

 I see you are getting the hang of this model boat/ship building thing Mark . Very well done mate . You will miss it when you get back to work .
david

[carlfmiller]

Fabulous work Mark. I love the closeups  (windless knocks me over) and now I wonder what is the gorgeous wood on the caprail?  When you make planks as on the deck or the superstructure siding, how do you draw the lines with such precision?? Or are all those perfect-fit actual veneer planks?






-cm

[Mark T]

Hi David - I guess practice makes you better     I really enjoy boat building as you know and yep I'll be back to work soon enough!


Hi Carl - The cap rail is made of 10mm x 4mm mahogany which is then sanded down to its final size of 8mm x 4mm or thereabouts in my case.  The hull is double planked and yes they are individual planks that are 6mm x 1.5mm.  It just takes planning and quite a lot of patience to make sure that each one fits exactly.  The deck was quite easy as they are 6mm wide planks glued over a false deck.


I thought that it would be nice to remind myself that this boat is actually destined for the water so while I'm waiting on a delivery of boxwood, I made a tiller and installed the servo rudder.





I've also made the roof for the engine cover and pre-bevelled the apex edges where they meet at the top of the roof.  This is made out of 3mm mahogany which is so nice to work with





And thats all I've done for today - Mark

[carlfmiller]

Mark, excuse my one or two dopey questions about the deck planks-- of course I can see they are individual planks. But they are made with such precision. On the other hand, in the photos of the floor of the wheelhouse above look like scribe lines in the piece of plywood; this was the actual basis of my question. If those are tiny perfect planks as well I am astounded, and must wonder about the process you are using for making the strips and cutting them. The caulk lines are so even I think it took more than patience to make them. And if the grain lines up, it must be that you are making the planks one at a time and laying them in side by side....


I remember now seeing you bend the mahogany for the caprails so that was a dopey question too, but in the lighting and coloration is looks like some kind of burl or bird's eye.


Seeing the details of this work is very humbling. I am looking for my pie that says "Eat Me" so I can go aboard in person.


-cm

[Mark T]

Hi Carl


Ah ha I now understand; and by the way on this forum there is no such thing at all as a dopey question.  Its one of the great things about this place and why I like coming here so much.  We all gain so much by members asking questions


The planks that you see that are marked out on the wheel house floor are printed on by the the manufacturer of the kit.  I use these as a guide line but I never actually seem to line up with them at all.  It would be just as simple to mark a straight line and follow that.


Now I am a very lucky man in as much as I own a Byrnes table saw.  I cut all of my own planks; be them for the hull or the deck from quite big pieces of wood.  It has a micrometer for adjustment so I can literally get any size plank that I want and its a pleasure to use.  So that is the reason that the grain lines up!  Its because all of the planks come from the same plank of wood.  All I use for the caulk lines is a marker pen with archival ink and do my best to keep it all straight.  If I start to wander I stop and start again as otherwise I would be scribing most of the deck.


As for the precision I found quite early on that all you need is a very very sharp miniature block plane.  I have two - one is made by Veritas which is the smallest and the other is made by Lie Nielson and is a violin makers plane.  Having these makes cutting them much easier and then it really is just practice after that and also keeping them sharp of which I've become quite good.


I also use a thickness sander which just means that my timber can be very versatile as once again I can just machine it to the size that I want.  Its nothing more than that really but thank you for your kind comments on my build.  I hope I haven't waffled too much


Mark

[carlfmiller]

Must smile-- I have all those same tools (except micrometer fence on my little Dremel table saw) and I know how to use them, but....the results are not quite the same.


I never thought of blacking the edges of the planks...the glue line I thought would be sufficient. So while this looks Ok, it isn't the museum-quality of your Anteo.


-cm

[Mark T]

Well at last my delivery of boxwood has arrived - So I've cut the 5.5mm x 3mm planks to finish the starboard corner of the superstructure





I then have made a start on the engine housing using the same 3mm boxwood making the sides and ends of the housing





I then glued the roof on which I had previously made and I think its turned out quite nice.  It will be nicer once its sanded down to a finish








And the inside of the housing





This is what it looks like sitting roughly on the hull - its propped up underneath as it not yet finished








I've also made the 10 doors for the engine housing - these 9 are a bit rough and need tiding up before getting a coat of matt poly once thats done.  I've turned 2 of them over so that you can also see the backs





Here's how they are going to look on the housing





And this one is a finished example thats been cleaned up and given a coat of matt poly








And finally looking down from the top so that you can see the hinges and the grating from above





So next week I'll carry on with the superstructure and the engine housing.  I've had to order some small hinges for the main superstructure and wheel house doors as I've discovered that there aren't any in the kit.  I'll see what they are like when they turn up


Cheers - Mark 

[Capt Podge]

It's good to see such neat and accurate work, especially with the way your corners meet. Certainly makes me want to try that little bit harder.
Good photos too. 


Regards,
Ray.

[Mark T]

Cheers Ray funnily enough I really have been trying to get things neater and the joints tighter.....I must be getting there!


Today I made a start on the brass work on the engine housing.  First up was to reinforce the roof underneath so that I could make the holes without breaking through.  I also think this will help in the long run when things get knocked about a bit.





Then I made the holes and the brass work which consists of 4 rails which oil drums are tied too and also a vert pipe all made from 2mm brass.  Its awkward to be accurate on a sloping surface but I got there.








Lastly I marked out and drilled the 20 holes for the hinges that the covers fit onto, fitted the lower skirt and then gave it a good sand down ready for a coat of poly.











Unfortunately I have run out of matt polyurethane as I used the last of it on the 10 engine house covers which are now finished and drying.  Maybe I'll brave B&Q sometime this week but until then as the housing is just about finished I'll get on with the superstructure again.


Mark 

[KNO3]

Wonderful progress so far.

[Martin (Admin)]

  Awesome carpentry! 

[Mark T]

KNO3 and Martin thanks very much 


I've been getting on with the superstructure corner but I also have so many little jobs that I need to do to make this boat go.  The first is the issue of the steam pressure release valve which is located inside the superstructure.  If this blows the hull and structure would fill with hot steam so I needed to find a way of venting it to atmosphere.  Having spoken to my mate George we decided that the best plan of action would be to route this bypass pipe up the funnel. I tried this but I just could not get things to fit which is frustrating as this is the way I wanted to go.  So I decided to go straight up instead which meant drilling quite a tricky hole.  The valve is almost central to the bulkhead above it so I just went for it.  I drilled the hole up to the deck through the bulkhead and also cut out an opening for the valve.





I then made a simple top hat kind of thing that will be permanently fixed to the superstructure and sits directly over the release valve.  Should the valve blow the steam will go straight up and out and i can either leave this pipe proud on the deck or make it flush so that its barely visible














And although its difficult to see through the door opening here it is in situ covering the release valve - and yes that is my blood in the roof!!!





I've also made allowances for the gas tank valve as it sits above deck level so I just simply had to cut a hole in the superstructure to accommodate this








And I've also removed the union from the whistle pipe that was preventing the superstructure funnel to sit squarely over the boiler funnel





I did pop out and get some polyurethane so I've sprayed the engine housing and I'm waiting for that to dry - Oh and my little hinges for the doors arrived and they are great.  When open they are 6mm x 7mm and seem very well made too.





Loads done and still loads to do - Mark 

[pipercub1772]

Lovely build most  enjoyable ,May i ask you your opinion on the varnish on the scale of the mode i/e matt/ satin/gloss, regards Allan

[Mark T]

Hi Allen and thanks very much for you comments.  Regarding the varnish I'm using Rustoleum matt polyurethane spray which goes on nicely but does take a long time to fully cure.  I would say that it takes a good couple of weeks to really full harden.


Now although its called a matt varnish I would say that it dries as a satin finish but it looks ok.  I guess I could matt it down further with a fine scotchpad but if I do thats a future job for me.


The last boat I built I gave a gloss coat too and although it looks very nice it doesn't have the real look that a matt coat gives to models.  I personally prefer a matt finish but I know other builders who prefer gloss.

[Mark T]

I got some more done today - firstly I've finished the other lower corner on the superstructure which has turned out ok





And then the job I've been avoiding the fitting of the funnel.  I've replaced the kits plastic pipe with aluminium tube and I also cannot use the kits mounting parts as its not designed for anything to go through it.  So I made a couple of supports either side of the hole which the funnel fits in.  I bevelled these so that they match the angle of the roof as I want this mounting to be strong





I had to cut a slot in the tube to allow it to fit over the whistle pipe.  This turned out to be a bit small in the end





I then made a lower offset mount to set the angle of the funnel and secured it all with a 3mm bolt.  Its nice and strong and more importantly removable should I need too.  I also had to widen the slot for the whistle pipe and the mounting hole was slotted to allow a bit of adjustment.  Its the same old problem of getting these things to fit around everything else!











Here it is cut to length and on the tug











I have no idea what colour I'm going to paint it so suggestions would be welcome.  The kit version has the lower 3/4 in grey with the top 1/4 being black.  I don't know what do you think?  I could just do it white??


I think thats the last big obstacle I had to over come on this build to get it converted to steam.  So hopefully everything else should just follow now.  I've noticed a few modifications that I will need to do to the boiler plant simply because I just cannot get to a coupe of things.  Nothing major just tinkering on my part.  I'm going to start the wheel house tomorrow 


Cheers Mark 

[Capt Podge]

Well done Mark, you seem to have found a practical solution to a not uncommon issue so, once again, very well done 


Regards,
Ray.

[southsteyne2]

Great work Mark like the steam winch where did you purchase them?

[Mark T]

Well done Mark, you seem to have found a practical solution to a not uncommon issue so, once again, very well done 


Regards,
Ray.

Thanks Ray I knew that this would be tricky just because of the size of the funnel and its going to be prone to damage.  I didn't really have a plan I just looked at each step and took what I thought was the most sensible approach

Great work Mark like the steam winch where did you purchase them?

Ah I didn't - its part of the kit and its really nicely made.  In fact all I seem to have used is the frames and the fittings but thats ok.

[Jerry C]

Hi Mark, what method do you use with the silicone pipe insulation, solder nipple, add nut, slide on insulation, compress, add nut  and solder nipple. Alternatively make up pipe fittings, split insulation and slip over pipe with split out of sight?


PM Research whistle arrived Fedex 3 days from New York. Pricey but safe and quick. Insulation on its way from China. £10. Lathe on its way from Sydney. 3 weeks so must be pushing it in a wheelbarrow! Now perusing Chronos website for all the necessities tools etc. Second Christmas.
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

Hi Jerry,
A good source for tools is (https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk )and for taps and dies, >  ( Tracy tools ) tracy do carbon steel taps and dies but the best is H.S.S. and not too expensive.


I hope that you are still pushing the peddles and that you and Mary are in good health.


George.

[Mark T]

Hi Jerry it does sound like Christmas is coming early to you this year 


As for the insulation I tried various ways and in the end I just cut it lengthwise and then slipped it over.  I did use a glue called Silpoxy to glue the joint back together by goodness me its expensive stuff.  It does work very well though for gluing silicon back together.  If you can find a way of somehow sliding it over or trying to compress it let me know.  This would have been my preferred way of doing things


Happy building 

[Mark T]

I'm not doing any building today as we are having a VE day BBQ to celebrate our Grandparents who all fought in the war and who are sadly no longer with us.


Here are a few pictures of the now finished engine housing.  Its still a bit glossy as the poly isn't quite dry yet but I am pleased the way its turned out.

















Mark

[tonyH]

That is really lovely work!