Topic: Panart/Mantua Anteo Steam Tug Build (Read 259062 times)

T33cno · « **Reply #75 on:** January 27, 2018, 06:59:32 pm »

The best boat porn on the web

Mark T · « **Reply #76 on:** January 28, 2018, 05:44:50 pm »

Quote from: T33cno on January 27, 2018, 06:59:32 pm

The best boat porn on the web

Okay next up is to mount the rudder servo which needs to go here after the hatched area had been removed

Once the piece had been removed it left the structure very vulnerable so I wanted to make a box for the servo which filled the space exactly. So after a bit of cutting, clamping and gluing I made the box

Which needed a slot to allow the wiring to fit in nicely

Which then looked like this

I then clamped and glued the box into it place

Which gave me a nice snug fit and put even more strength into the structure

And then finally I bored out the rudder tube hole to see how it all lined up.

Thats it for now - Mark

derekwarner · « **Reply #77 on:** January 28, 2018, 09:25:17 pm »

Mark.........the gas tank appears to have taken on a distinctly flattish top

surface...is this an illusion?......... Derek

Mark T · « **Reply #78 on:** January 29, 2018, 02:57:05 am »

Hi Derek it’s just the photo as it’s still round

IanJ · « **Reply #79 on:** January 30, 2018, 10:45:38 am »

Hi Mark,

Still following your most interesting build and please keep the photos of how the boiler room & engine room are being configured coming, very informative indeed! I suspect it's something you have mentioned before; do you intend to conduct tests of the assembly under steam before the planking?

Clearly understand the importance & need for the tray to catch the all of drips etc., but have you considered or see the benefit in adding a small thimble size sump to the tray to aid removal of the water/oil mixture, say with a suitable syringe?

Ian

Mark T · « **Reply #80 on:** January 30, 2018, 10:57:31 am »

Hi Ian yes I’m hoping to get it fully working before any planking is done. I know that I can’t iron out every problem but if I can do for 90% I’ll be happy. I hadn’t thought about a sump - I’ll think about that one thanks for the idea

Mark T · « **Reply #81 on:** February 03, 2018, 11:48:59 am »

A bit of an update this time to fit the steam whistle. Now as easy as it sounds to quickly fit a whistle its not quite as simple on this build. As its an enclosed steam plant, to run a whistle up through the superstructure was just not going to work. There is not the space available on the deck and it would also complicate putting the superstructure onto the hull when I'm sailing. A solution was found after a call to Clevedon Steam as Jerry supplies a whistle kit that fits inside the funnel.

Now as its inside the funnel I didn't want it simply rattling around so firstly I made a support for both the whistle and the engine exhaust. Its just some copper tube silver soldered to a stainless steel stud.

I then cut a slot in the funnel to allow the steam pipe to go through which I also found supports the whistle quite well.

And then fitted the top mount that I had made earlier. It made the whistle very secure indeed

Next was to fit the valve that controls the whistle and I had to have a 90 degree elbow made by Jerry to get it to fit. He did a lovely job for me.

Which was then fitted to the boiler and the pipework connected up to the whistle through a straight connector so that the funnel can easily be removed.

And finally I fitted the servo to work the whistle. The reason for the springs on the control rod is because the valve must have a positive shut off to close fully. I'm using the springs to keep pressure on the valve and remove it from the servo gears.

Mark

steamboatmodel · « **Reply #82 on:** February 03, 2018, 03:40:58 pm »

We used to call springs set up like that "servo savers". You could buy the complete set in one package. I really like the look of that whistle
Gerald..

Mark T · « **Reply #83 on:** February 03, 2018, 05:01:55 pm »

Hi Gerald yes I used to use these on my cars before transmitters were adjustable but I think it will work well in this application too.

Just a quick update I drilled the holes for the servo wires so that they trail back to where the receiver is going to live.

Mark

rhavrane · « **Reply #84 on:** February 03, 2018, 07:58:41 pm »

Bonjour Mark,
Great ! Your boat is almost finished... Oups, I have forgotten a detail... A hull

Mark T · « **Reply #85 on:** February 03, 2018, 09:01:11 pm »

Hi Raphael; yes you are right it certainly won't float

I've got to be honest I'm really looking forward to getting the hull built and seeing it come to life

bfgstew · « **Reply #86 on:** February 03, 2018, 09:25:35 pm »

Shame you can't make it from clear plastic Mark.......show off all the great detail......

Mark T · « **Reply #87 on:** February 03, 2018, 09:38:23 pm »

Quote from: bfgstew on February 03, 2018, 09:25:35 pm

Shame you can't make it from clear plastic Mark.......show off all the great detail......

Thanks Stewart; I wonder if anyone has ever done that? I bet it would look amazing

Something for the skilled vac moulders on here to think about.

bfgstew · « **Reply #88 on:** February 03, 2018, 10:11:00 pm »

The steam launch my father left me is superb above and below deck, some of it you cannot see, shame really.
Clear vac formed hull could be the way to go.......

T33cno · « **Reply #89 on:** February 03, 2018, 10:20:22 pm »

Take some very well framed shots of all that won't be seen later and make a series of poster sized prints

Mark T · « **Reply #90 on:** February 04, 2018, 02:38:33 pm »

Quote from: T33cno on February 03, 2018, 10:20:22 pm

Take some very well framed shots of all that won't be seen later and make a series of poster sized prints

Actually that a really good idea thanks Andy

Ok onto lagging the boiler and I nicked this method from someone on this forum after having read a few older posts. So its not my idea I'm just copying someone else - well why reinvent the wheel eh!

Firstly the boiler needed stripping down and the first layer of insulation was marked and cut out. I have used 1mm of ceramic paper which apparently is used in kilns somewhere and is good for 1250 degree centigrade.

Which was then wrapped around the boiler and held in place with very thin double sided sellotape.

I next used wood stain in the areas that may be seen after the wood cladding has been fitted. I think that seeing the white ceramic would look quite bad and this is a simple solution and used before by other builders.

I then started the cladding using 3mm x 9mm walnut wood which is really nice to work with

And the angles were planed using my little Veritas plane with is lovely to use. It works just like the full size version and gives great results. I did guess the angle though.

I will have to update this a bit later as I'm having a few problems uploading photos but thanks for looking - Mark

Mark T · « **Reply #91 on:** February 04, 2018, 04:05:35 pm »

Hooray we're back in business now that Martin has sorted out the photo server - thanks Martin

So I carried on planing the planks and gluing them in place around the boiler

Which was then sanded down to make it look a bit smarter

Next was to make the brass bands that wrap around the boiler. Again I nicked Jerry C's idea of how to make them as I thought that his method look very nice. I started by making some T bolts which have a slider one side a a 2mm thread in the other.

I then silver soldered some tube onto the end of the band

And then using a dremel with a cutting disk I cut a slot into the tube that was wide enough to allow the 2mm bolt to slide through

I did this a both ends of the band and then had a trial fit to see if they were the right length. Please excuse that swarf hanging off and the rough wood but this was just a test fit

I was quite happy with the fit so first thing was to clean up the ends of the bands so that they looked a little nicer

And lastly I gave the walnut 4 coats of matt varnish and the boiler ended up like this

I'm really happy with the way its turned out

These Pendle boilers are just fantastic

Thanks for looking - Mark

T33cno · « **Reply #92 on:** February 04, 2018, 04:07:58 pm »

Outstanding! clearly this is oozing personal satisfaction

IanJ · « **Reply #93 on:** February 04, 2018, 04:38:08 pm »

Mark,

You have managed to improve on what was already a very nice boiler!

Ian

Captain fizz · « **Reply #94 on:** February 04, 2018, 04:43:28 pm »

Very nice work Mark, it is the detail that is so satisfying

rhavrane · « **Reply #95 on:** February 04, 2018, 06:24:59 pm »

Bonjour Mark,
Sorry, but you make a little mistake says one of my friends. In a closed hull, especially in a working boat the boiler should be covered by a skin of painted steel sheet. Wood is for open launches

Jerry C · « **Reply #96 on:** February 05, 2018, 12:29:54 am »

Your soldered bands look neater than my rivets. All a beautiful job.
Following from afar.
Jerry.

Mark T · « **Reply #97 on:** February 05, 2018, 10:48:17 am »

Thanks for the nice comments

Jerry I’m glad that I did solder the ends as I made them just a little too long. It was a simple matter of just cutting off one end and re-soldering a new piece making them 5mm shorter

Jerry C · « **Reply #98 on:** February 05, 2018, 11:04:05 am »

Us Black Country guys got to stick together. Me ex Wednesfield.
Bostin ayit ar👌🏿
Jerry.

Mark T · « **Reply #99 on:** February 05, 2018, 11:08:48 am »

Quote from: Jerry C on February 05, 2018, 11:04:05 am

Us Black Country guys got to stick together. Me ex Wednesfield.
Bostin ayit ar👌🏿
Jerry.

According to my neighbours I’m an Honary Black Country man as I’ve lived there for 28 year but I’m originally from the smoke 👍

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Author Topic: Panart/Mantua Anteo Steam Tug Build (Read 259062 times)

T33cno

T33cno

T33cno