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[Corposant]

Having got the answer to my T8FB transmitter question (many thanks to Korp1010 for contacting me and proving it can be done using 64 bit Windows 10), I am still struggling with the other problem I mentioned: PWM does not operate on channel 5 (3 position switch "SwB"). The comment in the manual "CH5 will controlled by SwA and SwB to set six flight mode such as connect to PIX or APM flight controller" may be music to the ears of a helicopter pilot but not to someone wanting to raise or lower a hoist using SwB on Ch 5!

I wondered if this could be overridden by a parameter change but to no avail. According to the manual , the obvious solution would be to use the V105 (8 Ch PWM) firmware hex file instead of V117. I had tried this previously wihout success and the result was the same this time: no Rx response on any channel (also checked with oscilloscope).

RadioLink claim "PWM on all 8 channels" for this transmitter so, question is: Has anyone actually achieved this?

Mike

[davem99]

Hi Mike
I don't have this set but reading the online manual:
1.2.4 S-BUS, PPM and PPM signal change
Short press the ID SET switch two times within 1 second, the signal is changed from normal PWM to S-BUS or PPM. The green LED indicates the normal PWM and red&green LED indicates S-BUS or PPM signal.
Is it possible your Rx is set to S-Bus or PPM? Red/green LEDs.
A green LED should give you 8 PWM channels.
As you have modified the firmware I suggest you revert to the supplied version and reset to default values to remove any settings that may have changed.
Dave

[Corposant]

Hi Dave

Many thanks for your helpful suggestions.

The Rx is properly set up for PWM on all channels. The firmware comes in a folder containing 3 hex files. In the manual these are described as:
T8FB_APP_V105-8 independent channels.hex
T8FB_App_V305_multicopter.hex
T8FB_App_V505_fixed wing.hex

but downloaded from the RadioLink website (described as upgraded) the files are:
T8FB_APP_V105_628c_20160328.hex
T8FB_FHSS_V117_582b_20170308_33bit.hex
T8FB_ResetAPP_20170503.hex

The "33bit" bothers me somewhat as I have 64bit Windows 10 on my computer.

My initial parameter change was simply an attempt to change the low voltage alarm value from 11 to 8 volts. Most often reading the parameters back from the Tx, resulted the value staying at the default value - but not always! Sometimes it has changed to 7.3V or 5V (with the alarm still sounding with a 9.6V battery)!! Eventually, after hearing of success from Korp1010, I managed to make the change.

As I mentioned, the obvious way to get PWM on all channels would be to use the V105 firmware - but this does not work. (One has to use the reset firmware to get back to V117)

My emails to RadioLink didn't work (Apparently the China Border Patrol doesn't like some service providers), so I have written them a long letter. Obviously it will be some time (if ever) before I get a reply!

Mike

[davem99]

Hi Mike
I did a bit more searching and found
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Bj5wwGwujE.
Shows setting up and also connecting to a mobile via an app. Couldn't quite catch the app details but it shows visually all the settings including the stick and switch controls working., If you can find the app it would confirm the Tx is working at least to the control area. My Taranis has separate firmware for the system and tx so hopefully yours is similar and the upgrade is just for the system.
If you are in a club or have access to another set you could test your Tx and Rx which might identify any faults.
I have screwed up a couple of my Taranis Tx boards making them compliant with EU regs, all sorted now but a real pain at the time.
Hope you can find the app and sort the problem.
Sorry I can't help further
Dave

[Corposant]

Hi Dave

Thanks again for taking the trouble to research my problem. I had actually watched that video but not taken it too seriously because a) it was geared to flying a helicopter and b) it illustrated the use of the android app. (I don't even have a mobile phone!)

It is interesting to note that the kit in the video came with software on a disc. The android screen display shows the same parameters that are shown on my computer but in a slightly different format.

There is no club within easy striking distance for me but I agree that it would be nice to find someone who has used this kit for a model boat.

Your contribution much appreciated.

Mike

[davem99]

Mike
If you have software is it possible it does the same as the app? I know they can be daunting to use and I usually ask my 28yr old son to sort out my difficulties, and I have used computers from their inception!
There must be a modelling club of some sort fairly near, I have flown aircraft and raced cars and find they are all willing to help a fellow modeller of any type. Model trucks seem to be popular at present and the local leisure centre may allow use of their indoor halls. Might be worth asking to see if there are any locally.
You could look (as a guest) at https://model-boats.com/ and look at Model Boat Clubs to see if there is a club near to your location.
I do hope you manage to sort soon.


If at the end of the day a solution can not be found you may want to look at the FlySky FS-i6S. My club raffled a set at Christmas and I was so impressed I bought one for myself. All very modern and touch screen and has many of the facilities of my Taranis. Easy to program and cheap receivers. I like Fly Sky as they are manufacturers and downloads are available from their site.


Good luck
Dave

[Corposant]

 Hi Dave


Sorry about the delay in replying. Our computing experience is obviously very similar – in my heyday, I wrote a fair amount of software in assembly language – when you were in control of the computer rather than it controlling you!

The software I am using is definitely OK – all the screens are those described in the upgraded RadioLink manual. The problem lies in data transmission between the Tx and computer. Any parameter changes can be saved in a txt file where all the values are stored as hexadecimal values. I have managed to decode pretty well all 92 entries!

The nearest club to me is 15 miles away at Basingstoke (they use a public lake which has very convenient parking). I have been meaning to join for the last couple of years so I can sail my Clyde Puffer so you're right, I must get round to it and I could ask questions by email.

The primary reason for going over to 2.4 GHz from 40 MHz was to get rid of the problem of twitching servos. (I have quite a bit of closely packed electronics and 6 ferrite sleeves haven't helped.) The T8FB looked attractive. I need 6 channels so 8 would give me a choice of which controls to use for the various actions. The 2 way switch to operate the hoist (instead of one of the sticks – easily pushed inadvertently) was particularly attractive.

Perhaps I'm being too fussy because the T8FB has cured the servo problem and can operate in the same way as the Hitec 6 channel set. Nevertheless, I feel justified in challenging RadioLink over their claim of “8 PWM channels”.Your suggestion of going over to FlySky FS-i6S is very thought provoking!

Thanks again for your helpful comments.

Mike

 

[davem99]

Hi Mike
Yes I have a similar knowledge set. Looking at the connection cable I see what looks like a small circuit board that I suspect is the same as I have used (not always successfully) with my Taranis. My investigations lead me to believe that some of the Chinese imports were not compliant and although they appeared to work nothing was actually transferred. I bought a cheap WIN7 laptop which had USB2 ports and solved some of the problems.
Windows 10 is a fine operating system but not good for developers or anyone who is used to working at machine code level. This was probably the problem with the chip on the interface (FTSD?) so I am not surprised you had problems.
Thankfully most recent Tx/Rx sets use up to date software compliant with Windows so the issue is disappearing.
I agree 2.4Ghz will help with the interference but you ESC's will still be affected by spikes on the power line breaking into the signal line. Correctly installed wiring helps but many of our new members arrive with all the wires routed together! I have mainly scale models and only a few fast boats, and most of those are now brushless, but my small Perkassa has two speed 600 and they do generate lots of interference and heat but are well supressed.
I think you should at least visit the Basingstoke club and take your Tx and model. I have a couple of Clyde Puffers and they look good on the water.
I agree RadioLink should provide an answer and hope you receive an answer in the not too distant future.


Dave
 

[Corposant]

Thanks once again Dave - As soon as I get answers, I'll share them here!

Regards,
             Mike