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Author Topic: XRAD'S D110 Version II  (Read 1584 times)

xrad

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XRAD'S D110 Version II
« on: April 29, 2018, 07:35:23 pm »

Had a spare axial scx10 chassis. Cut it in half and added 45mm with steel spacers and rub rails. Brazed it all together.  Used a bunch of leftovers including an extra D110 body that rc4wd sent to me as a replacement for a damaged unit. Machined a few parts on the lather and mill, like the motor chassis mount and rear bumper mount rods.  This is a mix of rc4wd and axial parts. The transfer case is rc4wd and is about a 1.3:1 ratio.  The slipper drive is a 4:1 ratio but easy to swap out pinions if I want more or less.  Decided to close up the rear windows.  Rear door not yet cut out to open...and maybe bigger mud guards... 

Using full thread 4-40 rods and 3mm 'long' ball ends until suspension is set. Then will cut some stainless tube to link length and slide over the rods.
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xrad

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Re: XRAD'S D110 Version II
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2018, 12:59:35 am »

Right thread: 

Building up slowly. The new gearbox set-up is perfect for crawling. Not too slow, not too fast. Plenty of power.  Starting to add bits...  Just got a box of parts from RCMart China including metal roof rack, all metal winch, lights, front and rear light guards for way less than ebay prices. to my door in 2 weeks. Brazed in a roll hoop to protect the 4 flood lights. I used part of the not well fitted front windshield bar that came with the roof rack. Had to change out the skinny stock tires, too small...Repainted the roof white...

Can't beat a 6 channel radio link receiver for 13$!! Wow! The only thing is that to 'bind,' you have to hit a tiny bind button on the receiver. So put it where you can reach the button.


Added fender flares.  Nearly finished interior.  Switched steering from right to left.  I decided to go with the standard fixing pins in front hood. I really wanted to do  under-carriage hidden pins, but not practical yet.  I will add spare tire on front hood anyway. The weighting of this unit is front heavy and better balanced than my D100, which is tail heavy and likes to tumble backwards down hills if not careful!
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xrad

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Re: XRAD'S D110 Version II
« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2018, 05:26:52 pm »

 Electronics =  FUN!! :}


Programmed a WT588D with 4 sounds.  Hooked to Pololu RC low side switch to ground. Have to manually select sounds as I did not feel like writing the serial code, although pololu offers a digital RC switch.  Or you could use a Trinket or similar.  Having the pololu rc switch makes things very easy as you do not have to program frequency limits.  If you do build with PCI or serial code, the sound options are very numerous!


Wired up a 3D printed main control box for power, winch power, and sound. It has an internal 2.5amp  5V regulator which powers all accesories.  Also run offroad lights with a second pololu low side RC switch (this handles about 2 amps +/-).


Also have the brake lights now functional (ON when vehicle stopped, off when moving reverse or forward), and the usual turn signals and tail/head lights.


Of note, different RC light control units (see pics) use different voltages.  Everything from 5-6v down to 2.2v. This is important if you decide to use one set of LEDs with another switch. Current draw can bee too much, or there may not enough power to run the LEDs.  I found that the black box with the center 4 dip switches works best for everything except brake lights. Brake light function requires the 'tamiya' labelled brand. None of these units costs more than 10-12$ and all come w/LEDs.

HORN EFFECT:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMG8qHjUfOQ
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