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[tigertiger]

If you are trying to cut thin strips or planks from the edges of boards, and you are not yet familiar with zero clearance inserts, this may help.


When you are cutting thin strips off the edge of a board on a table saw, then can get pulled down into the machine. Making a zero clearance insert is the solution, see pics.
If you go on Youtube there are many videos like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6Du_4tLvJk. There are even some videos that are machine specific, for some models that are different to the normal, like mine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqoypcqk1v0

[Peter Fitness]

Some years ago I made a zero clearance insert for my table saw, which used to belong to my late father, out of aluminium plate. I had to shape it to fit the recess in the table, which was rather time consuming but, eventually, it fitted. Using a fine toothed blade I can now successfully cut quite thin planks, so the effort was worthwhile.


Peter.

[grendel]

I have found that a smaller table saw, or even a bandsaw makes thin planks easier, I just converted some teak into 10mm x 5mm strip on the bandsaw just yesterday. that left me a nice 10mm x 2mm plank remaining. this was machined from a 4" x 1 1/4" x 20" piece of teak from the original boat the model will represent (well it was an offcut after hull planking repairs)

[tigertiger]

You are right Grendel, but if you already own a regular table saw or contractor saw, a zero clearance insert is cheaper than buying a new power tool  
It is also super easy to cut planks using a zero clearance insert. Now I have made the insert, it will live in the saw, unless I need to angle the blade.

[Baldrick]

I use the table saw attachment on my ancient Unimat SL lathe .I find that using the slitting saw blade ( I have several in different thicknesses) the finished plank comes off polished .  A useful feature of this arrangement is that as the blade position is controlled by the cross slide carriage of the lathe I can wind the saw blade over till it is a hairs breadth from the table slit and get zero clearance on one side

[grendel]

You are right Grendel, but if you already own a regular table saw or contractor saw, a zero clearance insert is cheaper than buying a new power tool  
It is also super easy to cut planks using a zero clearance insert. Now I have made the insert, it will live in the saw, unless I need to angle the blade.

True, I just used to run a thin piece of plywood half way onto the blade then clamp it to the bed both sides, then run my planks through.

[tigertiger]

True, I just used to run a thin piece of plywood half way onto the blade then clamp it to the bed both sides, then run my planks through.

 


That is a nice simple makeshift solution. 

[Peter Fitness]

True, I just used to run a thin piece of plywood half way onto the blade then clamp it to the bed both sides, then run my planks through.

Brilliant, why didn't I think of that


Peter.

[RAAArtyGunner]

I would only ever make the "insert" out of wood.


When using fine thin blades it is possible for  blades to get hot and for blades to 'wobble', the teeth will then hit the insert. With a metal insert the blades teeth are blunted whereas with the wood insert the gap/slot will be enlarged slightly with no damage to the blades teeth.

[Jerry C]

For the next stage, if you have a planer/thicknesses and the table won’t rise high enough to get the required thickness, I planed and thickness a suitable pine plank, covered it in double sided sticky tape and stuck a load of planks on it and surfaced one side. Peel them off, turn them over and do other side to final thickness. This was for a clinker boat.
Jerry.

[tigertiger]

There are many ways to skin a cat. This is how I have attacked the problem for a collection of planks.
As an example, for 10mm wide x 3mm thick planks.

First buy a 10mm thick board, or plane one to 10mm thickness, and cut to length if needed.
Then sand or plane one edge smooth.
After that rip cut the 2mm thickness plank on the table (or other saw). The plank will have one smooth finished side (use on the outside of the model) and one saw cut edge (relatively smooth on a table saw) that I would use inboard on a model.
Sand or plane the fresh cut edge of the board and repeat.

As I mentioned before, the downside is that the kerf on a table saw is 3mm, and so you will use 6mm thickness of board for every 3mm plank, but the cut face will require minimum sanding/planing to make it smooth.

This vid is helpful for those who have not cut strips on a table saw before https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKOefGSSl4A&list=RDAKOefGSSl4A&start_radio=1

[grendel]

heres a video I made a few years back on cutting planks, the main problem with planks I found was that you are too close to the fence to use any guards, so you have to be careful where you put your fingers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNmhzKpKnvg
you will note the sacrificial surface clamped to the machine to stop the freshly cut planks disappearing inside the saw.

[Brian60]

True, I just used to run a thin piece of plywood half way onto the blade then clamp it to the bed both sides, then run my planks through.

I have used this solution on my bandsaw, a piece of 12mm ply the same size as the bed and then run on to the blade so there is no slot in front of the blade.

[tigertiger]

...the main problem with planks I found was that you are too close to the fence to use any guards...

 


The video I posted above https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKOefGSSl4A&list=RDAKOefGSSl4A&start_radio=1 shows 3 methods to avoid this very problem.

[RAAArtyGunner]

 


The video I posted above https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKOefGSSl4A&list=RDAKOefGSSl4A&start_radio=1 shows 3 methods to avoid this very problem.