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Author Topic: Workshop Lighting Replacement  (Read 1488 times)

Tug Fanatic

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Workshop Lighting Replacement
« on: August 11, 2018, 04:08:05 pm »


Lighting has become something that I don't understand - just like so many other things!


My workshop has 2 single 8ft fluorescent fittings each with a Fitzgerald tube marked 100w and around 40mm/1.5in diameter. One fitting failed a couple of  months ago & now the other one has failed. I have isolated the problem to bulb failure but suspect that I need new fittings as they don't sell new fittings like these any more so please advise what I should replace them with. I have seen T5, T8, LED with ballast, LED without ballast but I am now just confused.


I don't want to end up with any less light than I had when my original fittings were new.   


Help.  {:-{   :((   {:-{


PS Longevity matters.
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dreadnought72

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2018, 06:07:55 pm »

Longevity should shunt you down the LED route. I'm contemplating a few of these for my Boat-Man-Shed, with some additional positional lighting for the workbench.


Andy
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Andyn

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2018, 06:15:18 pm »

Andy - I've got two of those in my loft and the light they kick out is brilliant, much brighter than the quoted replaced fluoro tube.


The T5 and T8 tubes are replacing the same named fluoro tubes, same for ballasted etc. Personally I just replaced the whole fitting rather than trying to match tubes
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kinmel

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2018, 06:16:26 pm »

The workbenches in my new workshop have these, fully adjustable and you can bring more than one lamp to bear on a particular spot....  www.screwfix.com/p/sasha-4-light-spotlight-silver-220-240v/5110v
Works brilliantly  with GU-10 LED bulbs, for example....   www.screwfix.com/p/lap-gu10-led-light-bulb-345lm-5w-5-pack/5180v
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Tug Fanatic

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2018, 07:19:44 pm »

Longevity should shunt you down the LED route. I'm contemplating a few of these for my Boat-Man-Shed, with some additional positional lighting for the workbench.

Andy




I was looking at these but I have never had a diffuser. Do they do anything other than collect dust? Does the cool white matter?


I note that these LED's have an output of 4400lm whilst the 5ft fluorescent have an output of 10440lm at about the same price.


https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-switch-start-magnetic-ballast-standard-batten-2-x-58w-10-440lm-5ft/61163
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Tug Fanatic

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2018, 07:21:29 pm »

The workbenches in my new workshop have these, fully adjustable and you can bring more than one lamp to bear on a particular spot....  www.screwfix.com/p/sasha-4-light-spotlight-silver-220-240v/5110v
Works brilliantly  with GU-10 LED bulbs, for example....   www.screwfix.com/p/lap-gu10-led-light-bulb-345lm-5w-5-pack/5180v



They look good for the workbench but I am looking at the main room lights.
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Footski

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2018, 07:25:50 pm »

I replace the kitchen tubes with LED. I could not believe how bright the light was for 48 watt. So good, I replaced the main bathroom with the same light. Amazing. Next will be my workroom with the same light.
Go LED. Buy as bright as possible for model building. You will be delighted. Mine are both 12 volt too. So cheap to run.
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Andyn

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2018, 08:40:13 pm »

I have never had a diffuser. Do they do anything other than collect dust? Does the cool white matter?


What they're saying is a diffuser is a frosted polycarbonate cover to better disperse light. Most Led's light output are rather narrow.


You'll see cool and warm white described for led's - this is essentially the colour of the light. Cool white gives things more of a hospital feel, warm white is more like your front room...
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dreadnought72

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #8 on: August 11, 2018, 11:15:28 pm »

...and either colour of 'white' * will change the way any paints look. If you can, aim for daylight: ~6000K. Tungsten (3200K) is too yellow, fluorescents a little better.

Technically: I think I'd be aiming for an LED 'natural white' (4000K) and adding a -80 Mired filter (half-blue would be close). You'd be working in 'daylight'.

Andy


* I was a TV camerman/ PSC lighting director.

(Edit for technical solution)
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tigertiger

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2018, 03:42:52 am »

You have not mentioned lighting positions.
Some people have strip lights in the centre of the room, because it is the highest point of a pitched roof. Central lighting is not good for a workshop, because if your benches are against the wall you will be working in your own shadow. Then you need additional lighting. 
I did the online search for lighting design when I did my workshop. For my single car garage, with a moderately low ceiling, siting the strip lights 0.5m from each wall means that I never work in the shadows. I also have fitting that have a reasonably bash proof, but low profile cover. Each fitting has two parallel small diameter tubes, which also reduces the profile. If your shed is dark, consider painting the walls.
Color, I avoid cool white. I believe it is harder on the eyes. You can buy full spectrum lighting now, and this reduces the effects of seasonally affected disorder (SAD) if you are a sufferer.
LED technology has come a long way, but get the ones with diffused light. The old type that were clusters of little 'spot lights' I find really distracting.

Just my 2C.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #10 on: August 12, 2018, 10:31:04 am »

Two disadvantages with fluorescents - one is their slight green tinge (noticeable if doing colour photography - your eyes compensate, the camera doesn't) and they strobe, which can make working on rotating items tricky and was widely regarded as a source of eye strain back in the days of CRT computer monitors.
Hopefully white LED replacement tubes suffer neither problem.  I'm planning on replacing the T12 tube in my kitchen when it gets a bit more annoying.  4 foot ones seem readily available, but I didn't see any 8 foot.
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Tug Fanatic

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #11 on: August 12, 2018, 02:06:58 pm »

Two disadvantages with fluorescents - one is their slight green tinge (noticeable if doing colour photography - your eyes compensate, the camera doesn't) and they strobe, which can make working on rotating items tricky and was widely regarded as a source of eye strain back in the days of CRT computer monitors.
Hopefully white LED replacement tubes suffer neither problem.  I'm planning on replacing the T12 tube in my kitchen when it gets a bit more annoying.  4 foot ones seem readily available, but I didn't see any 8 foot.




That is what I am contemplating. My cable comes through the centre of the ceiling & I cannot easily get at it from above to move it so that is where it will stay. I note that the 2 x 1200mm Screwfix LED has end power supply & no overhead cable access. An 8ft tube has the advantage of having lots of width of light source & gets relatively near the edges to reduce shadows. It also produces around 8000 lumens of light. I am considering two lights end to end to get the width.


I can largely ignore light source colour as I would never choose model colour in artificial light anyway.
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tigertiger

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #12 on: August 12, 2018, 03:42:30 pm »


My cable comes through the centre of the ceiling & I cannot easily get at it from above to move it so that is where it will stay.
 


You could easily put one of those round junction box things on the ceiling where the wire runs through. Then run two new wires out of the junction box in conduits, attached to the ceiling, to new locations on either side of the workshop. If you wished to do that.
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Tug Fanatic

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Re: Workshop Lighting Replacement
« Reply #13 on: August 12, 2018, 07:35:17 pm »

 


You could easily put one of those round junction box things on the ceiling where the wire runs through. Then run two new wires out of the junction box in conduits, attached to the ceiling, to new locations on either side of the workshop. If you wished to do that.



I will have a measure up tomorrow when it is light enough to see.


Thanks everyone for the help.
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