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Author Topic: wireing up the hunter  (Read 4882 times)

bigford

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wireing up the hunter
« on: September 18, 2007, 09:20:43 pm »

is this the right way to wire up the happy hunter???


i still need to get the jcc smoker
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Shipmate60

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2007, 09:38:21 pm »

That will run her on 24 volts.
is that your intention?

Bob
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boatmadman

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2007, 10:00:52 pm »

Not so sure you need to fuse the negative side, its usual to only fuse protect on positve - but what do I know!

Ian
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bigford

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2007, 10:17:22 pm »

nah i want to run her at 12 volt 14 amp ::)
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boatmadman

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2007, 10:34:05 pm »

OK, connect positive to positive and negative to negative, that will give you 12v 14 a.

Ian
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gribeauval

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2007, 10:48:05 pm »

Just like this. ;)
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bigford

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2007, 11:18:40 pm »

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boatmadman

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2007, 11:21:04 pm »

scuse my ignorance, but what does that do?

Ian
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Martin (Admin)

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2007, 11:34:51 pm »

It's a terminal block / strip connector for joining wires.




In Britain we tend to use "chocolate block" connectors.

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boatmadman

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2007, 11:36:47 pm »

Doh! should have realised!

Ian
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OMK

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2007, 03:18:00 am »

Given the chance, I'd opt for those phenolic-type connectors over the plastic 'choc-bloc' counterpart everytime. There was a discussion about 'spade' connectors recently. Spades are good - nice and strong. Same thing with those phenolic connectors. Only instead of using spades, 'eye-let' crimps are used.

Here's yet another take on how the gubbins might be wired...
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Colin Bishop

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #11 on: September 19, 2007, 08:15:26 am »

In yacht chandlers you can get "chocolate block" connectors with stainless steel inserts - reduces the risk of corrosion.
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2007, 08:14:18 pm »

is this the right way to wire up the happy hunter???



If you have used terminal blocks and NOT fuse blocks, then you are NOT fused at all.  :o

May I suggest you fit them where the proposed terminal blocks are.

Cheers...Ken
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Ghost in the shell

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #13 on: September 20, 2007, 10:43:03 am »

this is a simplified drawing,


the green spots on the red lines are FUSES, the idea being to have 4 fuses, one between the motor and esc, so if motor stalls it saves esc, however if internal short develops in one esc, then THAT fuse will fail, and you should be able to get home on the rmaining motor, providing the esc that powers the rx hasn't popped.

for this it may be woth considering a seperate battery pack. 
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #14 on: September 20, 2007, 11:18:42 am »


Hi Ghost

That's a lovely circuit diagram. Says it all.   O0

You mention separate battery packs. Can you expand on this please.  Do you mean motors, or Tx. ?

I have not seen any reference to a separate battery for each motor, but it occurs to me a good idea. (in case one goes flat, you can maybee struggle home on the other. (turning the rudder a bit eh !)


Cheers..Ken


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malcolmfrary

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #15 on: September 20, 2007, 11:36:32 am »

Many ESCs today have a battery eliminator (BEC) built in to supply the 5 volts that the RX and servos require.  In set-ups with more than one ESC, there would be more than one BEC supplying the regulated 5 volts.  This 5 volts is always +/- a bit due to manufacturing tolerances, and the BECs can fight amongst themselves. 
It is normal to disconnect the +ve wire of all but one of the ESCs at the servo plug, so that just one supplies the RX.  The internal BECs supply the 5 volt requirements of their own ESCs.
Ghosts' point was that if anything happened to the ESC that was supplying the RX, the RX would stop operating, so using a dedicated RX battery and disconnecting all of the ESC + ve servo leads, whatever happens with any of the ESCs, the RX can operate the rest.
The idea of using the two batteries separately, one per ESC, has the advantage that a defect on one will not upset the other, given the proviso that if one is going to fail, Murphy's law dictates that it WILL be the one that is supplying the RX.
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Ghost in the shell

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #16 on: September 20, 2007, 12:52:38 pm »

this makes it clear as I have included the RX and RX battery pack into the image as well.

You will notice that the RED wires of the Rx-ESC servo lead DOES NOT go all the way to the RX though does come out of the ESC.  The best option is to simply REMOVE it from the plug and tape it to the servo lead with insulating tape, rather than removing and snipping the wire, This will allow the wire to be re-installed again should you need to use the esc in another model.
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Ghost in the shell

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Re: wireing up the hunter
« Reply #17 on: September 20, 2007, 12:58:00 pm »


Hi Ghost

That's a lovely circuit diagram. Says it all.   O0

You mention separate battery packs. Can you expand on this please.  Do you mean motors, or Tx. ?

I have not seen any reference to a separate battery for each motor, but it occurs to me a good idea. (in case one goes flat, you can maybee struggle home on the other. (turning the rudder a bit eh !)


Cheers..Ken




I wanted it to be simple, that way ANYONE can understand it.
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