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Author Topic: ModelsbyDesign Shannon  (Read 7238 times)

Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #75 on: August 10, 2019, 05:21:45 PM »

I doubt this is the full solution but it will help
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ANDY
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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #76 on: August 11, 2019, 10:35:44 AM »

Hi Andy,
One Expo Archimedes duly ordered thanks for the heads up,
thought of another idea re Shannon, admittedly first suggestion was rather OTT - but hey from small acorns.

Would a hidden hatch in the deck, underneath the overhanging (helms position) part of the cabin,
to the rear of the main hatch opening,  be of help ?
Benefits - no visible cuts in the deck, all hidden under the rear cabin projection, appreciate what your saying about waiting for
Victor but its fun to bounce ideas around and have the wrinkles ironed out for when/if I get around to building one myself.

Problem with that is - one large Canadian Logging Tug to finish !
and that's only after building a new bigger workshop - the space needed to build another project that's ongoing
1/6 Atlantic 85 RNLI RIB - 4 Action Men, working brushless outboards etc. Paul




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Canterbury Coxswain

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #77 on: August 11, 2019, 11:59:07 AM »

Hi Andy,
All seems to be progressing well. I know a lot of folk are following this thread with great interest, so would just like to 'throw into the ring' another source of screws, bolts and washers that I have been using for almost 20 years in the building of my lifeboats - EKP Supplies, Nr. Barnstaple in North Devon, who make a lot of quality products for the steam model builders. Like you, I use a lot of Knupfer products, mainly their stainless steel very small sized bolts, nuts and washers. They certainly help to 'detail' a model. However, EKP will do the larger numbers and also in brass, which can either be plated - using one of the nickel adhesion processes [which I know 1709 has done to great effect recently] or else spraying [likewise with 17-09]. This works out a lot cheaper, especially when one has an engine access hatch to detail with either 110 or 220 bolts!! Also, if they are going to be covered in anti-slip paint [like on the Trent], then brass is good enough. They also made me to order, many years ago now, 1,000 brass 14BA bolts with a 12BA thread [this did not strip the thread in the tapped hole so easily] and these have been used on my Trent and some other areas of other lifeboats. However, made to order they did cost well over 200! - just don't mention those to my wife, and yes, I did not charge this item to the 'house keeping' account. Going back to your approach, I would always use the Knupfer stainless for safety snap-lines fixtures, pulpit and aerial fixings [etc.,.], they do give a great appearance and are less likely to rust.
[added with Andy's 'thumbs up OK']
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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #78 on: August 11, 2019, 07:23:09 PM »

Hi kim just to say I have also been following your build thread of 13-02 Dungeness with intent and always look forward to yours and Andys progress updates, please keep adding to the threads, even in years to come, this info will be invaluable  :-))
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #79 on: August 12, 2019, 04:52:43 PM »

Thank you for the comments and suggestions.
Slow progress



Here I want to point out a small problem that is best sorted sooner rather than later as it may affect the windscreen at a much later date.
View these images as they say more than words


Port view



Starboard



My first though was that the engine removal panel was very skewed BUT on further inspection it is only very slightly!
Viewed from above here please compare A and B and you can see that at A it is much narrower.
So my thinking is to fill this out with Upol and reshape the angles









I hope I have explained this clearly and that only a small amount of effort will make a considerable difference





I have a TIP here too
When using Upol P38 etc don't wait for it to fully harden before shaping it. I find that as it starts to go firm it will shape very nicely with a scalpel to remove the unwanted bulk to make sanding a minimum when fully hard.


Surely better yes?



I've been using this over a year now. I was recommended to me by Stavros and I'm still on the first tin


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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #80 on: August 12, 2019, 05:19:22 PM »

Another TIP


Look at the cabin earlier and see how the gel coat is very wavy along the side on a line below the windows.





This is very easy to equalise make straight and more defined.
Simply run a straight length of decorators masking tape above or below where you think the line should be.
With a small sanding block and medium grit paper sand the gel coat flat to the line.
Then transfer masking tape to the other side of the line and repeat.
Don't overdo it! just enough to achieve this




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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #81 on: August 12, 2019, 06:08:33 PM »

I'm now studying Kim's instructions for the bridge ready to do mine
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,54069.msg606836.html#msg606836


You must read this for many pages to pick up on the changes !
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ANDY
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Mark T

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #82 on: August 12, 2019, 06:52:33 PM »

Great attention to detail and the build looks amazing  :-))
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #83 on: August 12, 2019, 09:20:43 PM »

Thanks Mark


It's a long read is Kim's thread but it's clear that much of where I'm reading from is superseded later on.
So just for now until I get my head around it I've damed off the bottom of the rear wall and partially filled with 30 minute resin. I'll reduce these parts to a suitable finished thickness tomorrow.
It's clear that all the parts we are dealing with are a result of Kim's work saving us a huge personal effort  :-))





The bollards are now treated and the bolts cut off flush and sanded. Held in place by a single M4 socket screw each





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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #84 on: August 13, 2019, 10:23:36 AM »

Well you really must read or at the very least look at all the pictures that give an insight into real scratch building. What we get with our kits now is a direct result of Kim's endeavour.
For now I will direct you to this point that is the culmination of all the pages since the previous link I posted


https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,54069.msg613499.html#msg613499
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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #85 on: August 13, 2019, 06:38:15 PM »

Victor has messaged me to say my nozzles and buckets will be here this week  8)
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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #86 on: August 13, 2019, 08:57:54 PM »

This evening I've done a few jobs
Firstly the rear cabin walls I've reduced to 5mm thickness, fortunately I had not overfilled with resin so filing was not a long job after marking out








I've fixed these two parts together with 2mm machine screws. At the moment I feel pretty sure that this resin panel will be short of the deck



Checking they are level



Also I've cut out as much as I dare for now








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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #87 on: August 14, 2019, 10:07:02 AM »

Last night I found an issue with the bridge wall Angles where the windscreen goes effectively.
Kim has confirmed my findings and it is easy to fix.
Just cut off the port side uprights, fit in place and mark the angle of the channel in relation to the cabin with the intention of adding a new upright to the outer edge rather than back on top.
Sand off all trace off where you cut off the originals before gluing the new pieces to the side


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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #88 on: August 14, 2019, 10:10:06 AM »

Winging their way to me from OceanWorks  :-))





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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #89 on: August 14, 2019, 12:20:32 PM »

If you weren't aware?
Kim does a photo CD full of Shannon details, all proceeds to RNLI 7.50 delivered  :-))

Gate insert NOT included  8)
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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #90 on: August 14, 2019, 04:40:36 PM »

Today I started by glueing the floor to the bulkhead but NOT to the side wall that is still fixed with screws





Then I fitted a reinforcing strip, pictured here much later than I did this. Fixed with 5min epoxy it also supports the floor so essential to keep it flush with the top edge





I fixed it all in place before marking and drilling for screws again as a temporary assembly





I wasn't happy with the hasty fix I did last night so did it again
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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #91 on: August 14, 2019, 04:43:58 PM »

Now The bulked is contoured to the deck but as I thought there is a significant gap under the side wall





I am at 140mm here same as Speedline and I don't think shaving a couple of mm off will help so I need to fill the gap





This looks almost good enough to fit details straight on
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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #92 on: August 14, 2019, 05:16:53 PM »

Winging their way to me from OceanWorks  :-))








I have just noticed having had a closer look that Victor has also done something else I suggested hope?




The buckets can be left hand or right hand unlike the speed line offering. This gives you and me the option of symmetry.


Previously the port drive had bucket and trim tab rods on opposing sides BUT on the starboard drive they are both on the right side making it look congested.



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ANDY
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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #93 on: August 14, 2019, 05:30:21 PM »

It transpires that my kit should have included the rear telecoms mast wall as a resin casting. I did not have this part but I think it has worked out OK
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ANDY
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Canterbury Coxswain

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #94 on: August 14, 2019, 05:37:27 PM »

It certainly has Andy and this build is inspiring me to get all the 'chores' [never ending] out of the way and back to serious days of building!
Thanks,
Kim
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #95 on: August 14, 2019, 05:41:12 PM »

Good because we need you to make all the other bits  O0
Thanks Kim :-))
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ANDY
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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #96 on: August 16, 2019, 12:38:56 PM »

Very slow going with many adjustments



Side wall extended down to the deck



I've also fitted a fourth aluminium stretcher across below the very rear edge of the cabin.


All the while not gluing anything that will prevent dismantling as consideration must be made as to how this will all be painted and to the extra details that will be added requiring access with a drill etc


The desired end result all needs careful planning




The suggestion by Paul earlier of a deck hatch below the cabin rear is very likely the route I'll be taking


Meanwhile planning ahead for the arrival of the new jet drive parts I'm looking at the trim tab servos and I'm pretty sure that once installed I will be able to replace one with just two screws accessible through the rear hatches


This is a strip of GRP copper sheet that will do to mount the servos and the right hand one has the brackets I'll use  https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/302952/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqNnqBRATEiwAkHm2BGvs4oZHUWoh_CzdYxXiZy-OfUUF3UfQEBXXasD_Xt2eujPfRstz6hoC_wgQAvD_BwE
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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #97 on: August 16, 2019, 12:42:29 PM »

This is one of the servos I use pictured or the 339 if not available. SIX are required





Size comparison with full size servo


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ANDY
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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #98 on: August 16, 2019, 03:33:44 PM »

I've mounted one to see how practical it is and I'm satisfied that the removal screws will be easily accessible


The GRP sheet taps very easily and I've used 3mm button head screws


Approx position below deck and this can equally apply to other trim tab options






The servo clamps are designed for full size servos but easy to modify with a chisel scalpel blade






EDIT plus 1
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ANDY
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #99 on: August 16, 2019, 05:10:11 PM »

Having considered my earlier point that this upper control position needs to be removable for detailing I thought an example of the lengths I'm going to to enable the main bulkhead to be removable right to the end before final fix and final paint might be helpful.


These are port side photos









Dry fit first



Epoxy and styrene cement as appropriate but not glued to bulkhead












The top of the wall here will be shaped as a second operation
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ANDY
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