Topic: ModelsbyDesign Shannon (Read 81692 times)

ChrisH1981 · « **Reply #150 on:** August 23, 2019, 09:45:06 PM »

Love it andy! I dont know whether to follow this build on FB or here, but i monitor both threads as i dont want to miss anything. I just hope i can get t'internet in Tenerife in two weeks time otherwise im going to have a lotta catching up to do.....

Taranis · « **Reply #151 on:** August 23, 2019, 09:56:35 PM »

Facebook plays second fiddle. I'll be on holiday myself from the 5th

Mark T · « **Reply #152 on:** August 24, 2019, 02:39:15 PM »

Thats looks really nice and very realistic too. I've never heard of copper clad before but it looks like it holds and very sharp edge. I reckon that will pay dividends once the paint is on.

Taranis · « **Reply #153 on:** August 24, 2019, 02:41:27 PM »

Cheers Mark

This was what I bought early this year for trials https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glass-Fiber-Double-Side-PCB-Circuit-Board-Copper-Clad-Laminate-8pcs-R8Z8-R8Z8-/173885911260?hash=item287c6870dc
Today I've been sorting the hatches and avoiding going out into the bank holiday weekend congestion

Taranis · « **Reply #154 on:** August 24, 2019, 09:17:15 PM »

Baby steps

Taranis · « **Reply #155 on:** August 25, 2019, 12:00:52 AM »

It’s been a while but I feel the deja vu
However so far apart from the visible bit I am using epoxy. A new approach that saves all the filing afterwards if your soldering is like mine

A lot of builders fall foul here with a gap in the railings that a crew man could fall through.

Taranis · « **Reply #156 on:** August 25, 2019, 06:01:57 PM »

I found and you will that the hatch lids when assembled may not sit flush with the deck. My solution to this is 1/64 by 1/4 brass strip. After dressing the hole mask off underneath before using 5 min epoxy and inserting a pre prepared frame. Immediately as the epoxy is going off sit the lid in place and put a straight edge across it so it's flush.

before

after

A good bit or reshaping here before all fits good

A tad more filler and I'll be happy

Taranis · « **Reply #157 on:** August 25, 2019, 07:57:36 PM »

So now I'm looking for help advice suggestions .......... for hinges working or non working. EDIT and HANDLES

Taranis · « **Reply #158 on:** August 25, 2019, 10:11:50 PM »

Initial idea

Taranis · « **Reply #159 on:** August 26, 2019, 10:02:00 AM »

Well I've found a great picture that Kinmel posted last year with lots of detail

Taranis · « **Reply #160 on:** August 26, 2019, 01:05:19 PM »

If everything has been kept symmetrical then the rails can be turned upside down on opposite sides. Using the first stanchion from the gob eye as a reference point. Make all markings in exactly the same positions on both rails one bend at a time and positioning pliers on the same side of your marks on both rails. If you don't do that the bends will not be identical. Note there is a slight bend after that first stanchion too that many don't notice or just not bothered. The bend occurs straight after the outboard lifering clamp and about a pliers width which is handy

Taranis · « **Reply #161 on:** August 26, 2019, 01:23:53 PM »

Then moving on you can set them in place to identify and twists and then the ends can be supported with masking tape. I work to a height of 85mm on these stern rails

I'm now going to epoxy the ends to the gob eye and then solder the stanchions in place

EDIT
but first! the 3.5mm threads

Taranis · « **Reply #162 on:** August 26, 2019, 03:23:38 PM »

The often missed kick before the first turn. Also need to replicate for the lower rail.

Once at this stage it's just a matter of infilling at 43mm centres from top rail.

Now I need some oversize 1/8 brass washers to make the D shaped feet

Taranis · « **Reply #163 on:** August 26, 2019, 04:43:26 PM »

This is my source of form C washers
3.18 for stern rails

4.3 for Stanchions

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Washers-Large-3-2-4-3-5-3-6-4-8-4mm-Brass-Din-9021/273000252315?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=572226837936&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Taranis · « **Reply #164 on:** August 26, 2019, 08:20:04 PM »

Enough today

A lot of cleaning up tomorrow

Taranis · « **Reply #165 on:** August 27, 2019, 08:36:08 AM »

Lots still to do here but a good level to start from at some time later. Jet drive parts are on day 8 in transit so I hope to be moving to the other thread soon.

Taranis · « **Reply #166 on:** August 27, 2019, 08:39:04 AM »

One of our Danish Speedline builders said I could share these.
I thought they are a great benchmark to work to

Thank you Ole

The rest are here
https://techno.smugmug.com/Shannon/RNLI-Crew-figures/n-VTqbhc/i-Gj7gRBg

Taranis · « **Reply #167 on:** August 27, 2019, 06:34:37 PM »

View from other side

Switched attention to the bow

Having first threaded all four legs and drilled two pilot holes for the searchlight mounts I've set up for soldering with in this case Lead free. Later the searchlight mounting parts will be soldered next to these with low melt solder

I've used plain brass washers centre punched as Stanchion feet. Soldered in situ for correct angle to deck

Broom handle

Taranis · « **Reply #168 on:** August 28, 2019, 01:02:18 PM »

Almost there. If you are fortunate to have Speedline parts or building one. Here is my modified searchlight. I've used SS servo rod for the handles and made a complete new cradle from brass as the resin one is too weak and too tall. SS dome head socket screws for the pivots

2.4mm hole sleeved with tube

Happy with symmetry

You will find that the base for the Capstan is not level and needs building up on the rear half to make it vertical like the bollard. This was also the case on my other Shannon but I filed the front lower instead as the deck is plenty thick enough

Taranis · « **Reply #169 on:** August 28, 2019, 04:44:57 PM »

The Captsan mount levelled

A start on the bow roller
This is the first tier and as good as part of the deck. I've used thin styrene stuck down with 5min Poundland and surplus cleaned off with isopropanol

Taranis · « **Reply #170 on:** August 28, 2019, 05:44:39 PM »

I see Kim is under pressure by messages for dimensions.

I will start adding mine. These are not for argument (I doubt there are two models out there the same) and taken at your own risk. Generally if they look about right its near enough. Please don't tell me they are wrong because once I've committed to holes and bending brass you will be too late

Of note is all my stanchion holes are centred on a line 10mm from the deck edge without fender fitted.

I had already enquired with Chris about interior and the value is really excellent. I have a full set of Speedline seats already but will be using Chris for the rest at a later date

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #171 on:** August 28, 2019, 09:55:44 PM »

Not 'under pressure' Andy, been doing this for nineteen years now.......just another 'pinch point' as people buy and get inspired in 'spasms'. Always pleased to help, it's what the hobby is properly about - sharing - giving and getting, which is why I always go into detail. It's why I ran a five year course at my home and workshop.
Kim