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Author Topic: ModelsbyDesign Shannon  (Read 82843 times)

Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon NEWS 1:16 and 1:12 crew figures
« Reply #700 on: February 18, 2020, 07:40:34 PM »

My friend Steve Ryan has now said he is in a position to produce the figures previously manufactured by Speedline.
They will be cheaper and to order only as it's pretty much a hobby and he has just done a bubble free casting with the aid of a vacuum unit.
Message me for contact details if interested.


EDIT the decals must be obtained from David Leftley or make your own.
The visors where applicable have a template
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #701 on: February 18, 2020, 08:23:42 PM »

A big revelation!
I have in the past almost exclusively used K&S brass.
All my railings and stanchions have been 3.18mm or 1/8 so you would think that running a 3.5mm die up it should be easy? well it hasn't been with K&S
I don't know why as both K&S and the brass I got recently form Macc Models are precise in size but the MACC stuff threads easily with a squeaky noise as I rapidly thread it in a fraction of the time.
I thought too good to be true so I just checked it for bending and that too is excellent.  :-))

The seven threaded rods to the left are K&S brass and noticeably a different colour.






I tend to be going around in circles lately with loss of focus.
Having another go at wiping lol
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #702 on: February 19, 2020, 11:17:05 AM »

WOW impressed
My Proxxon milling machine just arrived from Germany from svh24.de so a seller to bookmark being considerably cheaper as well as fast.
Last night I ordered the vice 242690 from Amazon prime under £35


Probably just stand looking at it today  {-)


Size comparison
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Paul2407

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #703 on: February 19, 2020, 01:24:07 PM »

Very interesting observation with the brass Andy, does it solder any different or have you not got that far yet?
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #704 on: February 19, 2020, 03:57:58 PM »

I don't envisage any difference in soldering Paul


I've just finally piped up my two dust making machines to the VAC and made two butterfly valves to concentrate the suction to the machine in use. I made the flaps from 6mm thick roundels of paxolin that were left overs from drilling 40mm holes with a thin wall cutter. The resulting fit is perfect and pivoted on 1/8 rod







I'm making my stanchion feet from oversize brass washers as I did before. 20 required.


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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #705 on: February 19, 2020, 05:35:56 PM »

thanks Andy  :-))  that's an ingenious idea with the butterfly valves top quality work as per usual. I've finally decided on my next build I want one of Carls ferrys from Linkspan models but the one I would like is not priced on his site yet so don't know if it's available yet
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #706 on: February 19, 2020, 08:20:36 PM »

I look forwards to your build blog  O0


Pictures of one of the flaps. I closed both and tried blowing through and could not feel any air at the other ends despite going red in the face  {-)








Started making and fitting the main sockets that will have the securing pin through them.
A 4mm ID shorter brass sleeve will be fitted to create the lower tapered part. The stanchion foot will be drilled to 5mm for this


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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #707 on: February 19, 2020, 08:42:59 PM »

Yes I will do a build log for this one  :-)) 
you made a brilliant job of those flaps (oooh eeerrr  {-) [size=78%]) [/size][/size] but no honestly they are a fantastic idea not sure I would have thought of anything like that, anyway we are digressing your Shannon build is coming on in great strides, the level of detail is second to none [size=78%] O0  when can we expect to see some paint on the hull?
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #708 on: February 19, 2020, 10:30:24 PM »

Thanks
I don't pressure myself over paint. It will happen when the time is right and the weather.


This is how I'm heading with the stanchion footings, when the base is soldered and filed it will look welded.






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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #709 on: February 20, 2020, 10:49:51 AM »

Firstly the leg securing pin is shown inserted from the wrong side.

Soldering Jig for uprights. A revision due to experience gained.
My new method.











My choice of bolts for the feet.



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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #710 on: February 20, 2020, 11:49:42 AM »

I have to say I am mightily pleased with the result from this method. It has been so much easier than my last Shannon.


This is the only solder required apart from the junction of the second leg.


The socket sleeve is fitted with a dab of slow CA and the brass pin is responsible for preventing it ever moving.
The larger 4mm ID short sleeve is again pinned with 1mm rod but filed off to make invisible and will be covered in solder.
The larger sleeve is then set into the deck by very carefull use of a 5mm hss bit held in the fingers only until the stanchion sits to the right depth in the foot plate.
Then just the one solder cleaned up with a round needle file.





Because the plate is soldered with the correct attitude to the deck and the vertical it now stands unaided.



No appreciable scorching, this is a cross between resin flux and softened primer.



Angle unique to each and every stanchion


.


Cleaned up and pin swapped around. NO glue






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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #711 on: February 20, 2020, 06:33:31 PM »












Next is an easy one  {-)








Kitchen roll dispenser from Amazon today. I got fed up of looking for it


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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #712 on: February 20, 2020, 08:07:56 PM »

Iíve just discovered why the MACCmodels brass is better than the K&S


1/8″ dia brass round Solid CZ121 per foot. Brass alloy CZ121 / CW614N is used for machining. It has Lead added to the composition to improve machinability. The Lead remains insoluble in the microstructure of the brass and the soft particles act as chip breakers.
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #713 on: February 20, 2020, 10:32:38 PM »

The Proxxon vice was promptly delivered by Amazon.
Seems very well machined and I immediately lubricated all over.
So I'm ready for whatever Kim throws my way  {-)


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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #714 on: February 21, 2020, 03:32:58 PM »

This mill has been on my wish list for quite a while - and its going to have to wait for a while longer too  {-)


Andy if you want to see what can be done with this mill - check this guys skills out


https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19253-le-gros-ventre-by-marsalv-148-pof/page/3/
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #715 on: February 21, 2020, 06:33:57 PM »

He's far too clever  {-)


Lone stanchion done today



I'm having to strip off the Tamiya paint I used on the window frames. There is something in the paint that does not get on with soft resin.
Isopropanol dissolves it for removal.




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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #716 on: February 21, 2020, 06:45:31 PM »

Tamiya is quite well known for it's somewhat "aggressive" solvent content on some surfaces. Kind of a good and bad characteristic sometimes depending what side you're on I guess.  I've had no luck with Tamia aerosols but beginning to think it might be a batch issue.


Rich
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #717 on: February 21, 2020, 06:48:44 PM »

I forgot to say the issue is that despite painting these many weeks ago it is simply not drying and remains tacky.
No other issues with Tamiya on any other materials
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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #718 on: February 22, 2020, 09:55:06 AM »

Here is a shot showing that it will not be necessary to glue the deck on.
In view are 3 nuts for the two stanchions so far plus the thread is showing of the screw that secures the deck through a cleat base and the two dry fit legs of the cleat that will remain a dry fit.
The legs of my stern rails are also threaded but I decided a while ago that some will simply be impossible or too frustrating to fit nuts so instead they will be fixed from above through the feet and gobeye plates. only one screw per foot will be a fixing.





Despite having a very large stock of Heller drill bits from model shows I am finding that they are unpredictable and break in different ways at different times. I don't mind the attrition rate but getting the tip break off deep in a hole is a nightmare to retrieve.


So I am giving these a try from Amazon £5.99 delivered on prime.




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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #719 on: February 22, 2020, 10:32:48 AM »

Good idea to be able to completely remove the deck, from the outside is that protected by the fender once fitted to help stop any water seepage when in use? 


I've got a shed load a heller bits and have always had issues with the smaller one's breaking but always just replaced, so please let me know how you get on with these Rennie one's
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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #720 on: February 22, 2020, 10:41:00 AM »

Good question Paul
The fender will cover the join adequately and I have a bilge pump to deal with anything more than drips. Any ingress around the edge will not drip on anything sensitive and will run down to the keel where it will be evacuated quickly.
My Shannon has a loose deck and Iíve sailed at high speed in high wind without issue.


It would still take best part of a day to remove the deck but it is better than then having to deal with freeing glue so it is only for last resort. I have made all my internals removable to give as much hand room as is possible for the jet drives.

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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #721 on: February 22, 2020, 10:52:41 AM »

My friend Steve Ryan has now said he is in a position to produce the figures previously manufactured by Speedline.
They will be cheaper and to order only as it's pretty much a hobby and he has just done a bubble free casting with the aid of a vacuum unit.
Message me for contact details if interested.


EDIT the decals must be obtained from David Leftley or make your own.
The visors where applicable have a template
Part of an order for Germany  :-))


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Paul2407

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #722 on: February 22, 2020, 10:57:12 AM »

Yes I agree far better to spend the time removing the deck, lets face it you spend hundreds of hours making these models, so to make them so normal inaccessible parts are accessible is spot on, I so wish the person that originally built my Rotterdam did that so that you could either fit or repair a bow thruster if I had one
We learn something new everyday but I seem to learn something new every time you put a new post up  :-))


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Taranis

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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #723 on: February 22, 2020, 11:47:08 AM »

Drill bit feedback
These particular ones are absolute crap and Iíll be leaving appropriate feedback  >:-o
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Re: ModelsbyDesign Shannon
« Reply #724 on: February 22, 2020, 12:28:11 PM »

I'm still on target for one per day but when I finish this one I'll do the same three on port side. This way if I get fed up at least I'll be balanced  {-)

Only two more window frames to strip and Chris Scott confirms he used Halfords without a problem for these.



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