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[Circlip]

Bit of reverse engineering Martin13, for steamer read Kettle? (with SPOUT, not  the cordless cr--) You can stand holding wood in steam or connect to a pipe with rubber tube. Problem in using Ply lams, as I see it, is maintaining curves for bows. You could always make a template on the hull, to form  stringers to until set. Good tip for softening BALSA to form tight curves is to immerse in a piece of capped plastic drainpipe containing AMMONIA. Do it OUTSIDE or good recipe for permanant disqualification from ALL hobbies/divorce. Makes balsa go like rubber, hardens up when it dries again, but maintains shape previously clamped to.
     Regards Ian

   Give us a chance Bob, was typing this slowly so as not to get it wrong

[tigertiger]

Good tip for softening BALSA to form tight curves is to immerse in a piece of capped plastic drainpipe containing AMMONIA.

Hi Circlip

Do you mean immersed in liquid ammonia?
Or ammonia in the bottom so it absorbs fumes?

TT

[Circlip]

Immersed! Tube filled up. Yep I know it sounds dodgey, thats why outside. The strength of ammonia liquid is (Oh Bu---r, showing ones age) what came out of the old "Dyeline" printers we used in "Drawing Offices" (Remember them). It softens the cellulose bonds in the wood but they harden back up when dry. Lower concentrations of ammonia just mean soaking for a longer time. Yep Tiger you wouldn't believe how far you can bend balsa, think the old "Tailored Jetex Kits "were moulded this way.
             Ian

[tigertiger]

Hi Circlip

thanks for that.
If you could rememeber the strength it might save me from fumigating myself accidentally.

I am sure I can get ammonia here in China. And one or two other noxious substances.

TT

[Circlip]

Could have been 10% or lower AFTER it had been through the machine, just soak for longer.Will try to dig out model air----- OOPs
 A magazine out an get back to you,  just going to gargle with battery acid.Although I've DONE it  I used ex M/C liquid Had access to it.Someone else printed concentration.

[Bryan Young]

Not sure Bob but ain't the stringers in your Crash tender kit 1/8 X1/4 OBECHIE ? I don't remember having to steam them on the Hornet, and Laminating from thinner bits seems stronger. Could be that the quality of some of todays woods wouldn't even be suitable for firewood nowadays.

Bob,
Thanks for the info, but I do not own a steamer and considering what I have spent and kits ordered so far, swmbo not impressed even though she does not know the whole story.

Circlip,
I have plenty of marine ply sheets - do you think I can just laminate these near the bow? Lot less stress on timber..

Martin Down Under

Yes. Laminating is a great problem solver. The thinner the better! Go for it.

[kiteman1]

I'm surprised that no-one has suggested chucking it in the bath for a couple of hours.  That should be long enough.  If you clamp it overnight in situ the stress will be removed as the timber dries. I've done this with 6mm square softwood.  Also, as far as larger pieces of thin ply are concerned, if they are scored with a Stanley knife on the inside of the wood they will curve much easier when clamped.  They can also be softened by wetting for a minute or so on the scored side and then clamping in place until dry will help to achieve the desired result.  I've used this method on the sides of models to reduce the number of strips and speed up building time.  When the model is resined on the inside the strength is retained.  Thin ply is easier to bend in one direction than the other and this can be used to full advantage when slabbing sides or making gunwales.  I always make templates from cardboard first...Saves an awful lot of waste!

As far as the bows are concerned I've drilled the planks at the ends after shaping and used plastic coated garden wire to pull them in while the glue sets. When dry the wire ends are snipped off and the wire removed. The holes can be filled and sanded later.

Hope this helps a little..............  

[Martin13]

Thanks Guy's, your steaming/wetting method worked well on the 6mm hardwood stringers. Now for the outboard stringers being 12mm softwood.

If I used the wetting/steaming method then clamped into place, would the stress remain in the timber as it dried out or should I cut a series of scores on the inside to relieve pressure. Currently, I have clamped the stringer into place and bent it inwards all the way to the bow, then wired ends together for now. I'm not confident that it will remain in this position without snapping....... ??? ???

Martin Down Under

[chas]

If you want to shape wooden stringers, or any stripwood you could do worse than trying this.
    Find an old metal pipe, I use a piece of aluminium pipe from an old vacuum cleaner. secure one end and aim a blowtorch at the other.  While you were doing that soak your wood in water for 30 mins or so.  all you do then is shape the wood around the hot pipe, easing and bending as you go. with practice you can bend ply into funnels or make stringers into an exact fit so you get no stresses in the model. It's quick and can be very precise, BUT be carefull or you will have some burns. Lastly, I wouldn't aim the blowtorch into the pipe, you might end up with a flame thrower!!

[Angusc]

Hi Martin,
I have just bought a Cauldercraft Northlight as my first boat for many years. Probably not everyone's choice as a first boat. When opening the very large box there seemed an awful lot of empty space. I'm going through everything to make sure it is all there. Sure it is. The one thing I did find missing was a template for the stand. Having read many reviews of kits over the last few months every other kit seem to include a template with their plans. Has anybody out there got a template they can let me have a copy of?

Regards

AngusC

[DickyD]

My Caldercraft Milford Star did'nt have one either.

Cut one out of cardboard to make a template, cereal boxes are good.

[Angusc]

Thanks, I better start eating breakfast

AngusC