Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[Rodeo]

Hey all. Can anyone advise please..My hull is designed so that the Chines are parallel to the deck ,from rear to front.ie the join for the 'sides'to the 'bottom' panels are parallel to deck.Question..Would a spray rail be ok fitted along this line ie parallel to deck? Or should it run parallel then rise up as the bow tapers? Im asking as a parallel rail would strengthen
the join.Hope this makes sense.
Regards.

[Neil]

you mean like this.....I think most hard chine boats had the main joint in the hull following the hull deck line..

[Rodeo]

Thanks Neil.Yes exactly that! This will allow me to strengthen the join of panels at the bow taper.Thanks.

[Rodeo]

Now got to decide whether to use brass rod or brass tube to make the rail from.I will then apply filler to give it a square section.Hmm ..maybe some 3 or 4mm square brass section. .

[ChrisF]

Got to ask out of interest why you feel the need to add strength to the joint externally? Most of the strength is generated internally from gluing to the chine stringers etc.

To add any significant strength externally would require the use of an angled section which would be a pain (particularly if the angle varies along the hull length) and require letting into the hull. A better approach would be to resin and cloth the hull and let the chine/spray rail just do its job of deflecting water.

Chris

[Neil]

Now got to decide whether to use brass rod or brass tube to make the rail from.I will then apply filler to give it a square section.Hmm ..maybe some 3 or 4mm square brass section. .

that was just an easy fit of 5 x 3 mm obeche strip cut on my band saw. as Chris says, just epoxy or polyester resin inside the hull with some very fine mat or surface tissue to add all the strength you neen….




don't make things complicated for yourself by adding brass rod or tube as the spray rail...….not needed at all.

[Rodeo]

Perhaps I havent explained myself correctly.I still have to fit a spray rail,whether I glassfibre out or inside.I have no inner chime rail,just the tin bent .Fitting a wood rail is difficult,but soldering is a lot easier.The bow taper is butted on the chine line ,soldered and a overlap stop soldered internally.The actual butt join could split,therefore need a rail to cover it.

[Neil]

no Rodeo...…...you actually didn't explain in the first place that you were making your hull from tinplate...…….and that makes one whole world of difference to any build.

[derekwarner]

Unfortunately for all, this is what happens when multiple threads are used asking related questions for the same  project... ....as here Rodeo talks about tinplate construction 


http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,61938.msg653554.html#msg653554

[Rodeo]

My apologies! I shall go sit in the naughty corner...and keep soldering on.

[derekwarner]

Good....you just stay there 'soldering on'  ......[we know that song] and after each days progress, just post an image or two


Our resident Tinplate soldered hull practitioner member ....RGY or hamma......may wish to offer comment


Looking forward to see the works