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[newbe7]

I'm looking to find a shop to find the brass rudder shafts that have slots in them to be able to solder the brass rudder plate in them is there a manufacture that cut the slots in the rudder post.
Rick

[warspite]

if you line up the plate to the tube / bar you can just solder it directly to the tube / bar, a soldered joint can be quite adequate at times, it depends on the diameter of the tube / bar the bigger it is the easier it is to cut your own slot into it with a fine dremmel disk if need be, the same goes for the thickness of the brass sheet being fitted

[newbe7]

Thank you sounds good I will try that.
Rick

[warspite]

try on a scrap piece first till you are comfortable with lining things up, being clamped is a good idea as well as the iron is moved along slowly it can move the plates/bar, some use the solder paste, but its the heat needed, so clamping to something that will take the heat or be out of the area depending on the size of the items being soldered together

[chas]

Most of us just cut a slot in the brass rod. Cut the rod to length, mark how far down you want the slot to reach. Hold the rod in a vice, initially with just a cm or so above the jaws. Start sawing, a junior hacksaw with a decent metal cutting blade in is fine. After the first cm bring the rod up for the next cm, you can keep the slot in line by having the saw in the slot before you tighten the jaws. Take your time, slow steady cutting and watching the cut will help you keep the cut straight.
 I'm no engineer, and very average with my skills, and I find it easy, as long as I don't rush it.
The above only works for me with rod of 4 mm or larger diameter.
Using a slot rather than just soldering  allows you to make a balanced rudder, and makes the soldering dead easy, no jig needed.
Chas

[Netleyned]

As Chas says,
Slow and steady, letting the saw do the work.
Worth a new blade instead of the old one 
Ned

[Netleyned]

Auto spell put Chad instead of Chas
Who remembers Chad? 
Ned

[warspite]

I have a small diameter tube with some thin brass plate, the dremel cut a slot in the tube (looks rough) when the plates fitted and soldered it will be fine as the solder will fill the gap, as an apprentice, i built a couple of different steel clamps that will act as a heat sink if the iron is close by and therefore wont be damaged and I start furthest point away making my way to the clamps as the heat travels, the area last to be soldered is then already heated half way there.


as chad says, depends on how big the rod and plate is and what equipment you have available

[Netleyned]

You got Chad as well
Ned

[grendel]

I drilled a hole the diameter of the rudder rod through a thicker piece of bar, then carefully cut a slot across the hole, I could then feed the rod through the hole as I sawed in the slot to keep the slot central on the rod, using a junior hacksaw, this kept the slot centralised on the thinner rod.

[warspite]

Yes auto correct  - that organic one between my ears, doh, chad looking over a wall    , 60's or during WWII? when it first appeared


hopefully Newbe7 has read the other replies before starting on the first reply, as they appear to have gone offline straight after.

[malcolmfrary]

If it is a very small boat, just butt soldering the rudder to a flat on the shaft the height of the rudder will do the job. 
Larger boats, with a thicker shaft, cutting a slot about 1-1.5cm will do the job.  No need to go any deeper, the rest of the rudder blade hanging down will probably rok better than one with a lump of shaft messing with the water flow/
Pre-built rudders come like that.  The manufacturers don't buy in slotted rod - they do their own slotting, no doubt involving a jig and a power tool.
Properly large rudders, as on yachts, are usually built rather differently.


Chad - in comics that I got in the '50's, so probably appeared WW2, possibly started as a reference to rationing.

[warspite]

Can't be sure, but if I remember correctly I saw the Chad reference (scrawled on a wall) in a film, though the film was probably a lot later than WWII, so may not have been an accurate representation anyway, for some reason whilst typing this I get a feeling it was Kelly's Hero's - noting oddball seemed to be from the 60's than the 40's.

[grendel]

origin from Kilroy was here -
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilroy_was_here
apparently 1938- origins from foo in WW1