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[JimG]

If I had done this I would have cut it at one side not the middle. Sand down the side smooth and there should be little or no clean up at the joints.
Jim

[Taranis]

Thank you Jim. I considered that but ruled it out as the excess glue would be harder to clean up at the edge. No problem in the middle. When painted no one will know.


This is also listed as ABS by EMA  I tried plastic glue and it's pants. Zap A Gap won the day again.


I've had one pm regarding the retailer.


So for etal https://hobby.uk.com/materials/plastic/styrene-stairs-ladders-rails/stairs.html


I've just added the winch drums seperator to the lead. I used 5mm brass rod sheathed in styrene. The rod fits a drilled recess top and bottom.
The benifit of my contruction method is no complicated mitres and no soldering. It is ultra strong too

[Howard]

Thank you Andy.

[Taranis]

Good morning 













Anyone know what green this is?



I think the foredeck ribs are all done

[Howard]

Might be Lincoln Green Andy.
            Regards Howard.

[Taranis]

Yes you'd think so Howard, however the examples of that on cars don't look anything like especially on range rovers


I thought I'd do a paint check and clear the foredeck as all the ribs are done to my satisfaction. I had to be sure the the spray would go everywhere leaving no white.






Still drying


The thing with scratch building is that without photos of what you cannot see you have to make it up. As long as its convincing no one will know any different. I guess only the real ships crew could say that's wrong

[tugboyben]

Morning Andy


You are doing a fine job. another Fantastic build What about painting it red 


Jason

[Taranis]

Thank you Jason.
It was the green that attracted me to Brians model and it contrasts so well with the red lead.
This is a very easy paint job as the deck and bulwarks are all this colour (will be satin lacquered)
The Gloss green from the waterline to the inner edge of the gunwale looks a fine contrast. If only I can find the right shade.


Stevn's Arctic today is rebadged Ocean Arctique and is blue


http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/search.php?search_title=OCEAN%20ARCTIQUE

[Taranis]

This just arrived and much cheaper than the Turnigy badged unit that hobby king sell. Chinese UK seller with Royal Mail tracking




XT60 plugs are big enough for my uses.
This will measure the load current of the schottels

[Howard]

Andy,
 Have you pm'ed Brian and asked him what shade he used as you know he's a great guy and very helpful.
 as you say it's a one off so paint it a green that rocks your boat.
          Regards Howard.

[Taranis]

I think I’m ahead of Brian now. I don’t think he’s onto painting

[Taranis]

So today aside from early morning painting I've made the cabin roof side extensions. These are not on the plans at all but pretty obvious from pictures. Without them crew would not be able to get passed the stairs to the wheels house.






Image for scale effect



Now I'm beginning the dreaded wheelhouse     See if I can get through it without it going in the bin

[chipchase]

I think I’m ahead of Brian now. I don’t think he’s onto painting

Morning Andy, your right it will be a while before I get to the painting stage. I don't have any idea what shade of green she is if I get any info I will let you know, it might be like Howard suggested and just pick a green that matches the green in the photos. I managed to get the correct RAL colour info for my Pelagic Trawler build and it doesn't look anything like her colour in the photos i have of her, I think the weather and salt water have a big effect on the true built colours.


Brian

[Taranis]

Thanks for posting Brian I pretty much thought the same and I'm now consciously looking at cars Ford meadow green is possible.


Meanwhile I can already see adjustments required but I'll continue with the front for now

[Howard]

Hello Andy,
 as Brian has said sometimes colours in photos can be so different in real life, But if any help I have the Humbrol Colour System book with a patch sample of the real paint, two might be of interest to you try number 2 Gloss Emerald or  number 131 Satin Mid Green. hope these are of help.
                  Regards Howard.

[Taranis]

Thank you Howard I will have a look.


I continued along the way



..... and after re examination of pictures I concluded I did have it right so continued to do the wheelhouse rear complete with the subtle over hang of the rear panels.

[Taranis]

Good progress
Walls completed and now I'm sheeting the top to give it strength for cutting out all the openings.
This will then be converted to a ring beam before making a detachable roof











I think you are very close with emerald green Howard and I am giving this a punt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MQSRDUA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Taranis]

Ready for marking and cutting openings tomorrow. I can start the roof too. Looking forwards to the mast!!!





Still a THUG

[Howard]

Hello Andy,
 Your build is looking amazing I think Martin will be looking to add you to the Master build section soon you put my plastic skill to shame.
            Regards Howard.

[Taranis]

Thank you Howard. I really don't care where my builds are    I'm far from being a master but all my builds are equal in standard. Over the last four years I have learnt something new every week but I am now relying on earlier posts to remember how I did it 


Recent experience of styrene has definitely converted me for scratch building superstructures but I do like my wooden kits hugely and I have so many yet to build 


I have an Esvagt support vessel to do too, also Orion mouldings.


MarkT should be in Master build 

[Taranis]

A head start on happy Friday 

[Taranis]

I checked photos this morning and realised the rear centre window is taller.


First I drill a hole big enough to accept the small dremmel drum sander in my Proxxon. Then I take out as much material as possible before finishing by hand with files.
Steady hand is essential as you can't put it back!

[Nordlys]

Couple of questions if I may, I've not used styrene.
What thickness is it, who supplies it, does it have any rigidity and how do you cut it!
Thanks Andy. It does look good and sharp.


N.

[Taranis]

Hi Nord, I'm always happy to answer questions    Thank you.
Styrene is just as commonly known as Plasticard. It is available in numerous thicknesses from probably 0.25mm up to 3mm. I have made parts thicker by laminating thicknesses together.
It is conveniently sold in A4 sheets at all model shops but can be ordered in larger sizes online.
It is manufactured by numerous brands like Raboesch, Maquettes, Evergreen and others.
It has a similar flexibilty to equivalent plywood.
You can cut and shape it with all the same tools that you would use on wood.


I use my mini plane often for squaring edges that have been cut with a scoring blade and snapped off.


Many videos on You tube of application and use  example  https://youtu.be/uJQ71o1qqWw


I select thickness as I think appropriate for what I'm making, NOT forgetting that I am new to this too!


Hope that helps



Wheelhouse progress.
Only the doors left to cut out.














Edges finished by hand with files prior to removing indelible pen with isopropanol

[Nordlys]

Thanks Andy, I recognise the Evergreen label, I discovered a pack of Square section amongst some railway parts of mine.
Of course I know about plasticard in thin section, not known to me as styrene!
Zap a gap I need to locate.
Very interesting info.


Nordlys.