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[colh107]

I'm looking at reviving my 'Sea Vixen', built 40 (yes, 40!) years ago. One area that was a problem even back then was the glazing.
I don't remember what material I used, but it always buckled. Used to glue it in with Araldite which, with what I know now, was probably too brittle. I suspect something modern like Sikaflex would be a better choice these days.
But what is the 'right' material to use, so that it stays nice and flat?
Note also that the front screen has a sharp angle in it - is there something that can take a sharp crease, or does it need to separate pieces?
And the top screen needs to curve, and needs to meet the 'mast' - so again, what would be a good material and fixing method?
Thoughts/suggestions/experience welcome. Thanks.

[imsinking]

I've had success with poly carbonate screens from mo-bike helmets it's devilish hard to bend at all, you'd need the thin type for the cabin windows , available clear , smoke or blue.
For the bridge screen it needs to be the thicker stuff from drop down helmets , same colour choices . . heating it does you no good at all, any bending needs to be done cold (book your hernia op early    ) a suitable bonding medium would be STIXALL by Everbuild a hi strength polymer (hasn't got that awful vinegar smell silicone sealers have while curing )hangs on like grim death, available in clear , white and black, I would make some bridge screen supports and araldite them into the deck , no danger of breaking loose then, see what I used on my fantasy huntress build , it's survived kids trying to pull it out of the water by the screen
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,51679.0.html
Bill

[colh107]

Thanks Bill. The side windows are probably easiest; the front screen I guess I could do from two separate pieces - fit a vertical strut in between inside to make the join neater if need be.
The bridge screen definitely the trickiest part    Was hoping not to have to rub back to bare wood in order to glue stuff (it was fantastically painted, and still looks good decades later!)

[Colin Bishop]

The  key to getting a successful screen is achieving the correct shape. When I built the SLEC Fairey Huntsman the supplied CNC cutout looked like this.
Colin