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[Colin H]

My Lovely Wonderful wife has offered to buy me a scroll saw for Christmas.

I have never had or used this type of saw before so am looking for advise, tips etc even down to should I be buying a scroll saw or a band saw. Help please. ???

Yours Colin H

[bigford]

  Craftsman 16 in. Scroll Saw, Benchtop, Variable Speed 21610

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921601000P?vName=Tools&keyword=craftsman+16+in.+scroll+saw
this is the one i JUST bought about a month ago so i'm still new to it
but i like it so far

[djrobbo]

Hi d epends a lot on what you want to cut out , i.e. large or small and intricate. I have both in my workshop and tend to use the band saw for roughing out larger pieces. the scroll saw is really fine and will go round amazingly tight curves, plus you can take the blade in and out so you can cut out window openings etc.  Its basically an electric fret saw.  remember them ?  Any way as they say you pays your money and you takes your choice......regards....bob

[Roger in France]

Well if she is paying you have to have the biggest and best there is !

If you are determined to have a true "scroll saw" look at "Hegner" it is the Rolls-Royce of saws but costs a small fortune.

Seriously, give us a little more idea of what you want to do with it and those of us with experience of the various types will be happy to advise. For example, I have:

1. An old "Coronet" band saw, three wheel, all cast iron and a beautiful machine which is so useful. It will cut rough, large timber and very fine, tightly curved work. It is all down to the type and size of  blade you use. I cut metals and plastics with it as well as wood.

2. I have a "Machine Mart" scroll saw which I seldom use.

3. I have a tiny "Proxxon" vibrating saw which is amazing for very, very fine and delicate work.

Roger in France.

[Colin H]

Thanks for the replies chaps.

The idea is that having built several kits I am now going to try scratch building. The first will be a Springer and if that prooves successful I would like to build a launch about 24" - 30".

I have tried to work with a fret saw but my skill levels are not up to it damn thing seems to have a mind of its own.

Yours Colin H.

[DaveB]

Hi Colin
I brought the Proxxon scroll saw last year and have been very impressed build quality and performance are both excellent, cost was £157 or £150 for cash at Warwick in November.
Dave

[BarryM]

I bought my Aeropiccola Vibrosaw 25 years ago for £45. It is well-built, has performed without problem in that time and still produces intricate cuts in wood or thin metal.   I believe it is still available in model shops (Euromodels lists it) although the price has now inflated to £199! 

I suspect that the principle on which it works (does away with need for conventional motor) contributes to its longevity and unless you are very silly or suicidal, it will not cut flesh and bone. 

[ukengineman]

I think a scroll saw is more useful than a band saw for detailed modelling work. I have been very happy with my Dremel scroll saw which I have had for 12 years or so. I have used it to cut balsa, ply, hardwoods, plastics and glass fibre. Looking at the Dremel web site the latest version is more up market than my old one with variable speed and a more sturdy frame. It is a lot dearer than the many budget scroll saws. I guess you get what you pay for, it is however cheaper than the excellent Hegner.
http://www.dremel-direct.com/acatalog/Moto-Scroller_Tools.html

[Colin H]

Thanks for all the input.

I think for what I want to do you are right the scroll saw is the better option.

Just got to find out now how much SWMBO loves me, in other words how much will she pay to have me out from under her feet and in the shed.

Colin H.

[mick]

Hello Colin H, I have the Titan SF16G 85W Scroll Saw from Screwfix Direct. £39.99. Good value...Mick

[DickyD]

Hello Colin H, I have the Titan SF16G 85W Scroll Saw from Screwfix Direct. £39.99. Good value...Mick

Web address for above saw:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101403&ts=92293&id=20397

[Marks Model Bits]

I use one of these saws, they are ok and by fitting a tube spacer and a longer screw in the top blade mounting they will take wood and metal junior hacksaw blades, clamp a straight edge to the table and you have the next best thing to a bandsaw.

Mark.

[Colin H]

Thanks again for the replies.

I had looked at the Titan and almost discounted it as being to cheap and proberly therefore not up to the job.

Just shows what I know about scroll saws :-\ :-\

Space is limited could someone please let me know the overall dims front to back and width please.

Yours Colin H.

[DickyD]

Thanks again for the replies.

I had looked at the Titan and almost discounted it as being to cheap and proberly therefore not up to the job.

Just shows what I know about scroll saws :-\ :-\

Space is limited could someone please let me know the overall dims front to back and width please.

Yours Colin H.

Here you go-

            Specifications
No load speed 1400rpm. Max. cut at 90º 50mm. Table size 365 x 200mm. Weight 14.9kg. 

[BarryM]

14.9 kg? Does it come with a crane to lift it on the bench? 

[HS93 (RIP)]

I have a scroll saw and it is very good It can cut up to 1 1/4 inc Teak (cutting slow) and has only one problem the plastic blade cover is also used to hold the timber according to the instructions and is not sprung (you bin it anyway) so there is nothing to hold down timber on the od action that it grabs . plastic is worst. and brass can be a pain , so when I replace mine that has worked for about 10 years without problem ill go for one that has a fork type tool to hold down. and also speed controle. also buy the blades that have the pins in  a bit dearer but so much quicker

Peter

[DickyD]

14.9 kg? Does it come with a crane to lift it on the bench? 

Bench ?no one said anything about a bench. :-\

[Colin H]

Thanks for the help every one but if SWMBO is going to get away that cheap I will have to think of something else she can buy me as well. ::) ::)

Colin H.

[Colin H]

Hi Chaps,

Thanks for all the advice.

Scroll saw duly arrived and I have now started practicing with it. It is certainly much easier than a manual fret saw so at the moment I am busily cutting shapes from any scrap ply I have. Used Marks tip about clamping a guide to the bed plate for straight cutting and was really pleased with the result.

Just ordered a few bits from Squires so should be starting my springer next week. However my son looked at my efforts so far and has offered to buy me an 8` x 4` sheet of ply to cut the side from cheeky bu--er.

Yours Colin H.

[Colin H]

The saw came with four blades 15TPI, I now understand that these blades are classed as coarse. They seem OK on 5mm ply but should I be looking to get some medium and fine blades for work on finer materials say 1mm ply.

As I have said before I had never even seen a scroll saw never mind used one so would be grateful for any advice.

Colin H.

[HS93 (RIP)]

Get a selection, I always use the pin type as they are quicker to change, but a bit more expensive . you need to try them all to see what suites the way you cut Fine blades cut slower but are very short, so don't cut as straight and can over heat styrene ,a lot is down to preference , I tend to use moor fine blades though as you can cut a tighter circle. also rig up a light if it hasn't got one I got a cheap IKEA one and butchered it to fit

peter

[banjo]

This is the screw fix model as previous postings  Yes?

 ???

[HS93 (RIP)]

this is how I did the light works well for about £6 and the bulbs are cheap ,Touch wood its still the first one after 3years and all the rattling it gets, the wife has a light with the same bulbs to read by and she is on the forth or fifth one.

Peter

[Colin H]

Thanks for the replies will get a selection of blades on Monday and have a try with them. I have a light on an extendable arm with magnifying glass I NEED IT.

The saw that arrived was a Clarke Mod css16v 120watt motor variable speed 400-1700 with a 400mm throat.

As it was a Chrissy pressie I could not complain and it seems to work very well it is me that needs to practice. Still trying to work out the correct blade tension but I am getting there.


Yours Colin H.

[OMK]

Judging by his photos, it seems I have the same scroller as Peter's. Bought from Screwfix several years ago, reasonably priced and still going strong. I use a bog-standard lamp dimmer in series with the supply lead in order to have variable speed. (A bit Heath Robinson, but it works okay.)
Another nice thing is that the side panel is removable. The up/down movement of the arm is great for shaking those small jars of paint (simply zip-tied in place). Better results if you bung a glass marble in the jar first.