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[Michael51]

This is a first post.


I was kindly directed to this forum by a fellow Britmodeller member.


As a low-tech type, I seek advice on the best source of information on how to undertake an r/c conversion of the Matchbox / Revell 1/72 Flower Class corvette.


A search on the web has yet to reveal a guide that I can comprehend.


Illustrations always help me; I'm told that is the only way I learn.


Any assistance would be greatly appreciated,


Michael

[derekwarner]

Welcome Michael.....first thing to do is use the Search Function and search on Flower Class Warship [make sure you use 3 words]


You will find a dozen or so individual thread postings, with Flower Class as a subject element......possibly different scales & builds, but should be good reading for starters 


Keep us posted with your progress..............


Derek

[Michael51]

Thanks Derek,


I tried that, getting nineteen leads, but none that seem to directly cover the conversion.



Perhaps I am missing something: will keep on trying,


BTW, those verification questions - does one have to complete these every time a post is made or a reply sent or am I missing something there too?

Michael

[derekwarner]

Michael......just persevere with the verification questions ......only about 5 or 7 ....in total ...I think......they keep computerized trolls   away


I have not read each Flower thread, however again a good starting point.......thousands of members here....someone may chime in with actual Flower Class 1/72 Scale conversion experience


Derek

[Michael51]

Thanks Derek,


Yes, trolls, dreadful creatures,


Michael

[Plastic - RIP]

I've done a couple of them - Are you familiar with RC cars?  It's basically the same thing. Here's my build detailed for you - everyone does them differently - some people spend a fortune and years building them - I don't.


All I did was glue the hull together (I use liquid glue to run into the joint so there's no gaps) and then I got plasticard sheet cut into thin strips along the joint to bridge the joint to add more strength and add more liguid glue to form a really good joint.

I got a 10" 4mm propshaft and measured its outer diameter and then drilled and filed the hole in the hull until it slid in nicely.  Then glued that in place with a load of araldite to make the inside joint nice & watertight.  I fitted a UJ on the end of the shaft to connect an RS380 brushed DC motor - which was fixed to the hull with a good dollop of silicone sealer.   I built a platform in the stern of layers of 3mm foam board siliconed together to create a flat platform for the nut & washer of an off-the-shelf brass rudder to be fitted (The kit rudder can be glued around this to look correct).  Using plasticard, I made a mount for the rudder sevo and connected them.

Then it's just a case of throwing in a battery (I used a 6v Nimh RC car battery), the speed controller (I used a cheapo £5 chinese one from Ebay) and a receiver (I used a £20 Hobbyking 2.4 GHZ set).

The just build the rest of the model.  Make the superstructure removeable to get access inside the boat and then off you go to the test-tank (the bath).  You will need some ballast (roofing lead sheet) to get it to sit on the waterline - I just siliconed it into the bottom of the boat in small chunks until it sat properly in the water.


My flower class is my first choice to run - it just works and is easy to fix if something breaks off - it's seen a lot of action and is getting very shabby - probably time to build another to replace it..

[Michael51]

Thank you for that excellent description and the photo. You do make it sound easy.


I am not RC car-familiar and I baulk at matters requiring electricity and electronics. The best I have managed so far is an Andrew Cook  (http://www.gospectre.com/go_spectre_2012_003.htm) R65 yacht, but only because I purchased the very one  - his own specially built one - with the red spotted hull that appears on that site. In other words, I just switch it on and occasionally change batteries.


I need to get on with this project and will start gluing if and when my ebay-purchased corvette arrives from England.


Could I ask your views on some initial thoughts I have about the construction?


Are normal batteries a viable alternative to the rechargeable type?


I was thinking of using lead sinkers to ballast the vessel and after a bathtub test, secure the whole lot with Araldite.


I was then thinking of a liberal application of Araldite over the joints inside the hull, up to and above the waterline, to further waterproof the hull.


I was planning on using more Araldite around the prop shaft and stern post to give them a solid fix.


Thanks again, especially for the photos,


Michael

[C-3PO]

Hi Michael,

Reading this post without my glasses on which is always dangerous - welcome to the forum...

This article may be of interest - http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/hmcs-snowberry/10039





Regards
C-3PO

[Plastic - RIP]

Thank you for that excellent description and the photo. You do make it sound easy.


I am not RC car-familiar and I baulk at matters requiring electricity and electronics. The best I have managed so far is an Andrew Cook  (http://www.gospectre.com/go_spectre_2012_003.htm) R65 yacht, but only because I purchased the very one  - his own specially built one - with the red spotted hull that appears on that site. In other words, I just switch it on and occasionally change batteries.


I need to get on with this project and will start gluing if and when my ebay-purchased corvette arrives from England.


Could I ask your views on some initial thoughts I have about the construction?


Are normal batteries a viable alternative to the rechargeable type?


I was thinking of using lead sinkers to ballast the vessel and after a bathtub test, secure the whole lot with Araldite.


I was then thinking of a liberal application of Araldite over the joints inside the hull, up to and above the waterline, to further waterproof the hull.


I was planning on using more Araldite around the prop shaft and stern post to give them a solid fix.


Thanks again, especially for the photos,


Michael

Rechargeables work out a LOT cheaper - you can get them and a suitable charger from almost anywhere - I use ebay for most things - a battery is about £12 and a charger can be as little as £5.

Sinkers are fine but I'd stick them with silicone as you can remove them if you want - araldite can be a bit permanent for ballast positioning - unless you're sure you've got it right..

Araldite all over the inside seam is a good idea - whatever guarantees a good seal.

There are some little details to remember - stick a capacitor across the motor terminals to reduce RF noise (I use 100nF) and the speed controller will have connectors on it to connect to the battery (I prefer Tamiya white nylon types)  and a pair of crimped bullet connectors for the motor connection - this is so you can swap the motor terminals over if it runs the wrong way.

[Allnightin]

Hi Michael

Are there any model boat clubs near you that you can look in on?   It would be surprising if several members of any typical club hadn't converted the Flower class kit themselves so there should be a good opportunity to actually see how it can be done first hand and perhaps learn from several to find out what layout would best suit you.

[Michael51]

Thank you for the comments.


For some reason, your three posts are contained under one 'reply' symbol so here goes:



The photos of your corvette are inspiring: the link is most appreciated. It is pretty well just what I was looking for.


I will go for the rechargeable battery and also heed your advice on the ballast matter.


I am in a club and something of an infrequent participant over the last few years. I do not recall seeing a Flower Class corvette except for a half completed one which was mine. I got it with all the bits in and didn't understand any of it. It stopped one day, I put it in the shed and it warped in the Australian heat. That was over ten years ago.


This time, now in full retirement, I am going to construct it myself and get it right.


This forum has, in a matter of hours of my first post, been of immense help.


You are a very helpful lot,


Michael

[NickelBelter]

The Revell kits are very popular for a reason - they strike a good balance in size and sail well, with good interior access.  Virtually every part on them can be replaced with aftermarket superdetailing items, if you're that fussy. 

I put one together last year for my brother to finish and the only pitfall was that the plastic skeg area is easy to damage as you're boring it out to accept the stuffing box.  Otherwise the fit was very good despite the age of the mouldings and it didn't require any fiddly micro-sized components.  I'm building a River-class for myself for when we sail together.

[Plastic - RIP]

They're just the right size for your back seat for the trip to the lake.   

[Shipmate60]

Ballast her deep and she will sail a treat.


Bob

[Leaky]

I'm 3/4 of the way through a conversion you won't find two the same everyone has a different take and different ideas.
There's a few builds on here I've cherry picked ideas from as mine was built 30 years ago got smashed up and I've had to convert it from what I had left.

[Michael51]

Thank you for the further observations and advice.


That link to the Dave Abbott article really transformed the project from a quandary into a more relaxing problem solving exercise.


The kit is now on its way from the UK and I have located a local supplier who has most of the running gear bits I need.


Michael

[C-3PO]

Hi Michael,

Glad you found the Model Boat Magazine link useful

I have in my fleet the actual boat that Dave Abbott built for the article



C-3PO

[Michael51]

and mighty good it looks too,


Michael