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[HMS Invisible]

Yes, Chris will benefit and I hope it's found that only two escs are needed.
If one had switching bec there'd be only a need for one opto lead.

OK SIR whats the cost of postage ?

£1.55 by 2nd and £2.30 1st these days covers large letters.

an how can i pay you ?

Paypal friend/family or use PayPal to create a label image which can be emailed. That was the way I used to do it anyway.

an will i still have to buy from ebay this optocoupler ?

No, I used scrap connectors and surplus components to make individual leads that fit between escs and the receiver. Each one is like a short servo extension lead.

an which one please can you advise me on this sir ?  an when you send these leads could you please put in a compleate wirein diagram for me thats simple to understand ?

Yes, it was my intention to make a straightforward guide in a separate thread. That may not be ready for a few days since I've had a near six year break from these tasks.

thank you sir
chris

I'll pm tomorrow. I'm up at 4.30 each morning, these days.

[frogman3]

Yes, Chris will benefit and I hope it's found that only two escs are needed.
If one had switching bec there'd be only a need for one opto lead.

£1.55 by 2nd and £2.30 1st these days covers large letters.Paypal friend/family or use PayPal to create a label image which can be emailed. That was the way I used to do it anyway.No, I used scrap connectors and surplus components to make individual leads that fit between escs and the receiver. Each one is like a short servo extension lead.Yes, it was my intention to make a straightforward guide in a separate thread. That may not be ready for a few days since I've had a near six year break from these tasks.I'll pm tomorrow. I'm up at 4.30 each morning, these days.

HI again sir if you pm me your address then the only way i can pay you is to send you payment of cash in the post an i'll send my address  also for you to send me the the leads an diogram is this ok
chrisb

[Rob47]

Yes, Chris will benefit and I hope it's found that only two escs are needed.
If one had switching bec there'd be only a need for one opto lead.
Hi that’s how my Tiger ran, one sc for port two motors and one for starboard, worked a treat
Bob
£1.55 by 2nd and £2.30 1st these days covers large letters.Paypal friend/family or use PayPal to create a label image which can be emailed. That was the way I used to do it anyway.No, I used scrap connectors and surplus components to make individual leads that fit between escs and the receiver. Each one is like a short servo extension lead.Yes, it was my intention to make a straightforward guide in a separate thread. That may not be ready for a few days since I've had a near six year break from these tasks.I'll pm tomorrow. I'm up at 4.30 each morning, these days.

[frogman3]

HI Bob you Qoute below
 If one had switching bec there'd be only a need for one opto lead.Hi that’s how my Tiger ran, one sc for port two motors and one for starboard, worked a treatBob


Well Bob ive done that twice now or maybe three times with dfferent ESC 'S an no joy im afraid so i'll see if i can understand an do it mike's way an see what happens but thanks for your Qoute
Chrisb

[Rob47]

HI Bob you Qoute below
 If one had switching bec there'd be only a need for one opto lead.Hi that’s how my Tiger ran, one sc for port two motors and one for starboard, worked a treatBob


Well Bob ive done that twice now or maybe three times with dfferent ESC 'S an no joy im afraid so i'll see if i can understand an do it mike's way an see what happens but thanks for your Qoute
Chrisb

Hi Chris that did not come out righ fr some reason    what I tried say was ,two esc, one port one starboard. Left stick and right stick. I know you want it all on one stick. Hope that make more sense


Bob

[frogman3]

Hi Chris that did not come out righ fr some reason    what I tried say was ,two esc, one port one starboard. Left stick and right stick. I know you want it all on one stick. Hope that make more sense


Bob

AN HI BOB yes i just want them ESC 's all to work from one stick which is cha 2 on my T/X
chrisb

[HMS Invisible]

The opto lead connection  diagram asked for.

This simplified diagram is for two thumbs controlling two independant throttle channels.
If ESC number 4 supplied 5 or 6 volt to the receiver and servos the disconnected red wire in the bottom Y-lead would have to be restored.

If a separate b.e.c. is used all four escs would require opto leads.
 
Click on the thumbnail to open it on postimg.org, the image host.
To see it full size on a mobile device hold over the image on postimage.org and open in a new tab.

[frogman3]

The opto lead connection  diagram asked for.

This simplified diagram is for two thumbs controlling two independant throttle channels.
If ESC number 4 supplied 5 or 6 volt to the receiver and servos the disconnected red wire in the bottom Y-lead would have to be restored.

If a separate b.e.c. is used all four escs would require opto leads.
 
Click on the thumbnail to open it on postimg.org, the image host.
To see it full size on a mobile device hold over the image on postimage.org and open in a new tab.

HI Mike well from what i can make out first from the left is the motors an then the big sqaures are the ESC 'S ? YES? AN then the ESC leads go into a Y lead yes ? an then to the R/X SO CAN I THE LINK BOTH LEADS INTO ANOTHER Y LEAD SO THEN ITS JUST ONE Y LEAD TO THE R/X ?
CHRIS

[HMS Invisible]

In other words, you are considering a four way splitter.

You may as use a four way splitter or one high current ESC that I just bought to have a look at and no opto leads if you keep inner & outer motors Y- leaded at present. 
I'm up for that. It'll make room for your tools and cut down the wiring to a tenth.

Most suggestions will be Y-lead the left motors & the right motors as two pairs, as Rob47 suggested. It would give you the possibility of steering with the motors in addition to or instead of the rudder.

I further suggest plug two Y-leads into a tiny  £2.50 v-tail mixer then into receiver.
If you don't get used to it in 5 minutes, take out the mixer to use the 4 way splitter or the esc I described in this and following post. https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,69839.msg758575.html#msg758575

There are other options.

Fleet Systems, as standard, included a Tx switch that would combine twin throttle over on one stick. I think they also had an on-board hardware mixer available.
Some modern sets should allow you to wire in twin throttle & mix for single stick throttle then change to "four way splitting" mode.

Your description of the diagram is correct but I am doubting you see the diagram in the largest possible size.
Readers should be able to make out text and details within the three opto lead symbols after viewing the postimg page without even downloading the 800x 800 pixel image I uploaded.

[frogman3]

In other words, you are considering a four way splitter.

You may as use a four way splitter or one high current ESC that I just bought to have a look at and no opto leads if you keep inner & outer motors Y- leaded at present. 
I'm up for that. It'll make room for your tools and cut down the wiring to a tenth.

Most suggestions will be Y-lead the left motors & the right motors as two pairs, as Rob47 suggested. It would give you the possibility of steering with the motors in addition to or instead of the rudder.

I further suggest plug two Y-leads into a tiny  £2.50 v-tail mixer then into receiver.
If you don't get used to it in 5 minutes, take out the mixer to use the 4 way splitter or the esc I described in this and following post. https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,69839.msg758575.html#msg758575

There are other options.

Fleet Systems, as standard, included a Tx switch that would combine twin throttle over on one stick. I think they also had an on-board hardware mixer available.
Some modern sets should allow you to wire in twin throttle & mix for single stick throttle then change to "four way splitting" mode.

Your description of the diagram is correct but I am doubting you see the diagram in the largest possible size.
Readers should be able to make out text and details within the three opto lead symbols after viewing the postimg page without even downloading the 800x 800 pixel image I uploaded.

Well Mike im stickin with the 4 way splitter an fit in your opto leads an the take the leads down to another single Y  LEAD THAT WILL GO TO the R/X an it will work all from one stick on my T/X an i have to wait till warmer wheather an when i can get into Norwich pond  when they have a open day then i will take tiger an see what happens many thank sir
chrisb

[frogman3]

HI again Mike will i need to fit them suppression capasitors accross the motor terminals that you sent ? as if i remember rightly my new R/C says in instructions that i dont need to do this as the motors wont affect the R/C with interferance an thats why i havnt fitted none on them motors
CHRISB

[HMS Invisible]

No, suppressors, polyswitches and spare opto leads can go to your club for "tea money"

[frogman3]

No, suppressors, polyswitches and spare opto leads can go to your club for "tea money"

SO that a no i dont need to then an jen an i take a flask of coffee lol
an many thanks sir for your help much apprecaited cheers  will let you know how it all goes when an open day at the pond at Norwich as i cant sail Tiger on the sherigham pond as the water is high an tiger is a big high model an if the wind catches her an blows her into the pond over hang then it will smash all the masts off an i dont want that job of repairin all that
ATB Mike to you an yours
chrisb 

[HMS Invisible]

Sheringham?
Say hello to Geoff. 

[frogman3]

Sheringham?
Say hello to Geoff. 

HI Mike
Geoff  who ?

[HMS Invisible]

 Admiral Donuts (from Admiral Doenitz, has more subs than)

[frogman3]

HI Bob just been tryin to remember which ship you are building now as i was goin to try to look at your blog ?
chrisb

[frogman3]

HMS Invisible,


Thanks for the update diagrams, just to confirm if Chris take up your offer for the units, he would not require to purchase the eBay unit ?




Thanks and Chris sorry to post on Tiger thread but I think it will help you in the end.

AN hi Dave no need to aploagise for postin on my tiger thread an cheers very much for your post as well as that  will help me thanks
chrisb

[Rob47]

HI Bob just been tryin to remember which ship you are building now as i was goin to try to look at your blog ?
chrisb

Hi Chris. HMS Phoebe, but not touched it for a while to cold in garage


Bob

[frogman3]

Hi Chris. HMS Phoebe, but not touched it for a while to cold in garage


Bob

OK Bob thanks at least now i'll know where to look as i though you was building HMS BRISTOL but its now HMS phoebe ok that a type 12 isnt it ? as a freind gave me a 1/96 plan for one of them nice lookin ship 
chrisb

[Rob47]

Bristol was yonks ago,   built victorious,Leviathan since then
Phoebe is Leander class which is branch of T12
Bob

[frogman3]

Bristol was yonks ago,   built victorious,Leviathan since then
Phoebe is Leander class which is branch of T12
Bob

WELL Bob a pic of her would be nice ?
chrisb

[Rob47]

Plenty on here already Chris, but here's one for you, taken at Navy Day Bournville


Bob

[frogman3]

Plenty on here already Chris, but here's one for you, taken at Navy Day Bournville


Bob
HI BOB thats bristol isnt it i was hopein for a pic of your phebe ?
chrisb

[Rob47]

Chris again plenty of Phoebe/Hero on her just search Phoebe/Hero
Bob