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[Abandon Ship]

Hi All,

As a beginner to the hobby, I decided to have a go at the Sarik Whaleback ASRL kit (TW29).

https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/ww2-british-air-sea-rescue-launch-boat-kit/ - Admin

It’s relatively cheap so if I mess it up, not much lost. However, if there’s anyone out there who’s built one of the Sarik plastic kits and could give me some advice before I start cutting, it would be greatly appreciated.

To cut out the deck and hull, the instructions say “trim to line indicated”. On the hull, this line is quite clear but is about 3mm thick – should I cut to top, middle or bottom of the line? Obviously the safe way is to cut to top then dry fit to the deck and sand down as far as necessary.

That brings me to my second question – how to cut out the deck? The cut line is much finer but varies from about 4mm to 6mm from the deck surface (closer at bow and stern).

[Abandon Ship]

Please excuse my crude pencil lines they're to make sure the cut lines show up in photos.


Many thanks for any advice anyone is able to give.

[RST]

Hi,

I and many others use a "skrawker" such as this on plastic...

https://www.cottage-craft.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=217

I wouldn't be without mine from the legend that is Olfa.

...Youre right to run a pencil line down the moulding lines.  If I were you I'd get it close to the line using cutters, scissors etc, then I'd "shave" down to the line rather than sand.  "shaving" creates curly swarf -no dust until you need to create it when it come closer.

...I'm not familiar with this model so sorry for not undersanding your pictures of detailed parts but I build allot of models from lots of vac-formings.  I'd be a bit cautious -sometimes these mouldings are supposed to mate with a corresponding lips on the other part so there's a secure layer for bonding.  Don't cut too much of either away each-time before offering up and checking.  In any case, adding some polytyrene strip in the join is always recommended.

Rich

[Tug Fanatic]

Hi,

...............  If I were you I'd get it close to the line using cutters, scissors etc, then I'd "shave" down to the line rather than sand.  "shaving" creates curly swarf -no dust until you need to create it when it come closer............


Rich

And all those bits are great for creating what I call "splodge". You dissolve them, and other small pieces, in a solvent (most styrene adhesives will work or MEK) overnight in a sealed glass container until you have a paste. Used carefully it is great for reinforcing joints. Use it carefully as if used to excess it can cause damage to the surface of the model by softening/ dissolving it.

When cutting styrene lots of repeated very light cuts work better than a hard cut which tend to wander all over the place.

I totally agree about Rich's tool being a good idea and the desirability of reinforcing joints. If you don't reinforce them then you are joining 2 very thin sections which isn't a receipe for strength or durability.

I use a very old version (a Davis plane) of one of these for working my way to a finish line:

https://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/tools/sanding-filing/trimming-plane-or-312

[Abandon Ship]

Thanks Rich / Tug, It's hints like this that I'm looking for. Never worked with this material before so what may seem obvious to others will be new to me.


Thanks

[Colin Bishop]

Never worked with this material before so what may seem obvious to others will be new to me.

Just Google Working with Plasticard or Working with Styrene Sheet and you will find all the information, help and advice you could wish for including videos.

Colin

[Martin (Admin)]

I usually cut close with scissors and sand to line with course sandpaper

[Abandon Ship]

I was inspired to look through an old box of "too good to throw away" junk in the loft. Found scissors too blunt to cut paper and an old razor plane from my aeroplane building days.


Perfect tools for the job!!


Hull is now trimmed almost to the line, already a pretty good fit with the deck. I was making an easy job difficult by overthinking it.
Got some motor racing to watch and beer to drink this afternoon so will leave it for now.


Thanks for your help guys.

[Circlip]

If you go to the Sarik link given above, on the individual pictures shown it should be apparent where to cut. Non points to Sarik for instructions, or lack thereof.


  Regards  Ian.