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Author Topic: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log  (Read 45631 times)

warspite

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #525 on: September 12, 2021, 02:08:27 am »

I was trying to think of this earlier in the project, the issue is to keep the doors flat and then pop the edges that are internal inwards, lifting is easy its the lowering with such a light construction, it would always appear that the doors hadn't closed properly, only solution earlier was to have the pull mechanism either like a sail winch or a solid rod following a predetermined course, never completed the theory.
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T888

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #526 on: September 12, 2021, 07:07:18 am »

Hi Martin,


Thanks for your ideas, but unfortunately I have very limited space so any methods would have to fit with this restrictions.


The channel is only 1.5mm and due to the lightness I would have to have both sides using a thread lead screw.
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In Build ..... USS Roosevelt DDG-80
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T888

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #527 on: September 12, 2021, 07:22:11 am »

Hi Warspite


Your spot on to the issues, Iím thinking about making the panels out of brass ( back to first thought) or just the bottom panel.  %)


What ever method I use it will have to utilise a push , pull method, as I donít have any space for tracks or tubes to run wire, thread over the top of the hanger as Iíve used that space detailing, lighting and itís associated wiring.




My thought is to use a ďUĒ shaped steel 1mm rod to open the doors operated by a servo, but to close I have not got there yet.  Spring, solder the rods to bottom panel pivots ???????????????? {:-{ {:-{ {:-{ {:-{






Thanks Martin and Warspite your comments are helpful and appreciated  :-)) :-))
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warspite

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #528 on: September 12, 2021, 09:33:59 am »


Here is what I was thinking:-   %)

The thread would not need to be run up the channel but behind it, that clear fishing stuff connected to the bottom edge of the bottom, the 3rd one from bottom and 5th from bottom doors, a thin piece of thin plasticard would hide the threads behind it at the wall.


The threads would be under tension to pull the bottom edge inside, then they can be loose for the remainder of travel, set back from the inside channel is another thread that is on a sail winch type mechanism that travels from the bottom door to pull up to the where the bottom is flat at the top of travel, it is pulling sightly towards the inside - but due to the travel of the doors it cannot pull inside, the loop of the fishing line goes over a solid pulley / pin at the top (thats where this tension comes from if the pin is set back from the door), the lifting mechanism is under the deck as there is no space in the upper structure above the door.


The doors would need to be made of brass as it would not be long before the test item shown would fall apart or wear away, there would be a solid pulley / pin at the base as well, the only issue is a bar that would move into position at the other side of the door to push it back to being flat and therefore put the lines at the bases of the door under tension again.


The concept is in my head, the issue is drawing it to scale to see if it would work and how to make it at this scale.


What popped into my head was three designs that are out there they would need investigating to provide possible linkage designs.
1st who remembers the old school louvered windows - where pulling a lever down or up the glass panes would move at the same angle to be opened the issue was linking an opposite angled window and pushing them up.
2nd Louvered blinds - again the issue was it being pulled up and down, the same concept off the bottom door can be employed, its remembering that the centre is inside the door not on its travel in the channel pins, also space constrains mean any motors need to be under the deck.
3rd the solid linkage, its like the lock on a filing cabinet, a flat bar runner up the back of the doors slide with little ledges, as its pushed up, little corresponding ledges on the doors that dont interfere with each other are pushed up by the lifter - the upper two could only make contact when the doors need moving from the vertical, the bottom one could push up the bottom and the others up as one, ideally the upper two from one side and the bottom on the other side - why, the two upper ones would interfere with the roof as they got closer.


You have to see the images in my head  {-) %%
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MartinC

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #529 on: September 12, 2021, 11:16:24 am »

Hi Dave,


I know I'm being overly simplistic, so apologies.  If you install brass rod longitudinally through each door, pierce a hole or cut a slot, or event a small flat at the end to serve as an attachment point leaving the rod so it can rotate within the door and fit a cable on one side, such as a brake cable of a push bike or similar, then you could actuate it.  In my head that would enable the action on both sides.


Obviously this is challenging because of size.  Now I must get back to what I should be doing.


All the best Martin
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T888

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #530 on: September 12, 2021, 12:03:20 pm »

Thanks Warspite,


will look at this  :-))
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In Build ..... USS Roosevelt DDG-80
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T888

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #531 on: September 12, 2021, 12:05:21 pm »

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Regards Dave


In Build ..... USS Roosevelt DDG-80
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MartinC

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #532 on: September 12, 2021, 12:11:07 pm »

She looks really great Dave,


Sails well, nice weather too.
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T888

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #533 on: September 12, 2021, 12:16:29 pm »

Thanks Martin Yes Iím pleased with here.




Also looking at simplistic is some time the best way :-))
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frogman3

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #534 on: September 15, 2021, 08:38:56 am »

HI Dave she looks an sails very nice an had a good bow wave on her bet you was pleased  an how many channels have you got workin on her an if my tiger sails like this i'll be over the moon very well done an its given me more mojo to press on harder with my tiger
 :-))
chris

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T888

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #535 on: September 15, 2021, 10:59:25 am »

Chris
Yes Iím pleased with Roosevelt just need to finish off the out standing parts

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Regards Dave


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T888

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #536 on: September 15, 2021, 11:00:17 am »

Chris parts for Tiger posted :-))




What I have working is
Port motor
Stbd motor
Rudder
Gun
8 way switch working - nav lights, bridge white light, bridge Red, mast lights, hanger white light, hanger red light, helo rotor motor, [size=78%]Flight deck lights and hanger out side lights.[/size]
Helo moving in and out of hanger
Sound system
Working hanger doors if I can get them to work







« Last Edit: September 15, 2021, 11:36:18 am by T888 »
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frogman3

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Re: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log
« Reply #537 on: September 15, 2021, 12:52:00 pm »

Chris parts for Tiger posted :-))




What I have working is
Port motor
Stbd motor
Rudder
Gun
8 way switch working - nav lights, bridge white light, bridge Red, mast lights, hanger white light, hanger red light, helo rotor motor, [size=78%]Flight deck lights and hanger out side lights.[/size]
Helo moving in and out of hanger
Sound system
Working hanger doors if I can get them to work


HI Dave wow about the same as my HMS NORFOLK then but on my norfolk my helo doesnt go in an out of the hanger as i think how u have done that with magnets is wonderfull  just hope my tiger will be as good
ATB chris
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