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[RST]

Lots of folk buying computer radios these days.  I steer clear of them as I prefer KISS -but lots of problems I see might be helped by the use of a servo tester.  They're only about £4-10 in the UK, less than £3 if you must order from China.  Takes allot of guesswork out of troubleshooting for me anyway.  Also handy for just trying things without fiddling with a radio.


I'm not suggesting this seller, but it's the same one I bought from someone in Edinburgh a few years back.  You just need 4x AA batteries or similar as power.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Multi-Servo-Tester-3ch-ECS-Consistency-Speed-Controler-Power-Channels-CCPM-TY/2268869625?iid=263234220449

I know those of us more experienced know what foibles to look for and happy faffing changing channels and experimenting.  But for the money I think they're pretty useful rather than a "gadget" these days.  Especially for new folk.  Even more for new folk inheriting or buying second hand models.  I don't think they're recommended, or thought of enough.

Rich

[Stan]

Hi Rich had one for years saves all the hassle of rigging a radio set for testing servos and speed controllers. One other piece of kit that is a must a L E D tester you buy one for under £5.

Stan.

[Klunk]

personally, although I have a servo tester, I also have a board set up with a spare rx that use to test motors, servos batteries etc. I use my servo tester only for equipment already in boats where its difficult to get the equipment out. I also have a digital psu so I can supply power direct into any boat without fitting the battery, this helps when setting up distribution boards with either voltage upraters for fogging machines, or voltage down raters for leds etc. ps that's if I didn't set them up out of the model

[Taranis]

Great device Rich. I use mine to check servos are in neutral position out of the box and before fitting servo arm.
If fitting pairs of servos it helps greatly if the arms are centred identically 

[malcolmfrary]

EVERY HOME SHOULD HAVE ONE.
Cuts out a heck of a lot of guesswork.
A multimeter is another great help.

[roycv]

Hi all, I have been using the blue tester since they were 99p inc p&p.  Bought some more for a project, gone up a bit now.  Take care to get polarity correct.

Malcolm I have used 2 identical multimeters for over 30 years, the readings occasionally have a digit portion missing so bought 2 replacements.  But I find the new units read current as quite a bit lower like 2 amps for old one 1.7 for new ones, both meters give the same readings.

I am puzzled as I do not have a start point in knowing which is right.  Any ideas?  New ones are over 12 months old now, Toolzone ELO60.
regards
Roy

[RST]

Roy, have a look at bigclive.com on YouTube. I watched a demo of his where he showed a range of DMMs and how to test. He was checking slightly different though but might give you a pointer.  I've a selection of meters but settle on the uniT brand (very good enough for the money). How much was your toolzone one -the website gives nowt away. First thing I usually do is throw away the stock leads and buy a set of FLUKE leads as the connections in them are usually a bit more reliable, bit lower resistance alao. Not so easy without maplins now but cheap enough on eBay. Can you borrow a meter to check?

[roycv]

Thanks Malcolm , will do.  Actually when I received the first multimeter it did not work and eventually got down to a faulty lead.  As I had already complained and they had not done much about it I went back and said that I had traced the fault and I needed a new black lead, they said they would send me a replacement set of leads but they came with a multimeter as well!

I agree I have already replaced the leads.
kind regards
 Roy

[malcolmfrary]

The only way to check any meter is by using a known trusted source and a known trusted load that between them will give predictable results.  Back in the day, working in a quality assurance environment, that meant sending a meter off to be checked against a "sub-standard" meter, usually at a cost only slightly exceeding that of the meter to be assured. 
When meters were used, they were always checked by poking the 50 volt supply, and noting that it was as expected before proceeding.  Or, if looking at resistance, shorting the probes and noting whether or not the reading was zero.  With most modern meters and leads, zero-ish.
An old style meter with a needle shows varying voltages reasonably well, digital meters do a fine job on steady voltages, but have very limited ability with anything fluctuating.

[roycv]

Hi Malcolm you prodded me into remembering I have an AVO 8 hidden away somewhere.  I will use that as my fiducial go-to.
regrds Roy