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David's Amati Riva Aquarama Build - With some mods...

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Hi All

Just started the build. Been reading the existing build logs with great interest and learning a lot, some great results being achieved..!

My background relating to RC and model boats, built and raced Multi boats in the 70's, then left to play with some full sized boats... Dabbled with a couple of electric boats in past 10 years, plus a Dragonforce 65 yacht, and a TREX 450 helicopter.  Stronger on the metalwork side than the woodwork if I'm honest...

So onto a bigger challenge (for me), the Amati Aquarama...  Reasons for posting here:

1. I welcome any input from those that have gone before me with this kit.
2. I plan to use the kit as a basis and to incorporate some more bespoke work, so welcome any thoughts if I stray too far from reality...

Currently working on preparing the basic structure, keel and ribs, getting the stern sorted out ready to assemble.

Some initial thoughts and plans:

1. I didn't like the look of the Amati motors / running gear in the supplementary kit, so...

- I have a couple of Overlander 3530 Outrunners rated at 1100kv, 340W each. Matched to 3C lipos (to be decided on when actual space in known.) [size=78%][/size]

- Plan is to build a watercooled mount for each motor that will allow use of a toothed belt arrangement (3:2 reduction so slower shaft, more torque) so I can get the propshaft to a low angle. ( I see videos on YouTube of these models running very bow down and suspect the steep shaft angle of the kit is one of the reasons.)

- Custom made 4mm propshafts / tubes running exposed out of the hull via bushed P bracket. PropShop 1415 brass props to start with.

- 2 x Shark 30A watercooled ESCs [size=78%][/size]

- Custom rudders. I think they need to be close the full size aspect, maybe scaled up a shade, but not too deep.  I see the models banking over when turning and think standard (shaped) model rudders will start to give lift so compound the banking.

2. I'll be using a Futaba T6EX six channel system, and will set it up for 'normal' steering / throttle behavior, and add mixing for reducing inboard motor speed during a turn, and motor only turning on left horizontal stick.

3. LED lighting throughout including dashboard (saw this on a YouTube build log, very cool..!)

4. Modified exhausts.  I'd like to get the coolant just rolling out of the end pipes as seen on the full sized boats.

5. Modified chines...  I think one more reason for the bow digging in is that there's a lot of structural weight up in the bow, and that's where the underwater section of the hull is least buoyant (narrowest / deepest V) and doesn't generate lift at 1/10 scale. (No offense to Carlo...) So, I'm pondering a mod to the ribs to give a one plank widths 'flat chine' for some of the hull length. Aim would be to add some lift at the forward planing area of the hull, and at the same time to deflect some of the water away from the boat...

6. Looking into how best to add a Ski pole...  For a 1/10th Skier... To Ski with...

7. On a more down to earth note, using Titebond 111 for the woodwork, and so far very pleased.

So, there you go.  Other matters to discuss like planking, waterproofing and varnish finishing (a black art if ever I heard of one...)

Please let me know if there's appetite here to document the build.

Very best regards to all.

coch y bonddu:
Come on what are you waiting for we are all waiting



Hi Dave

OK, here's what we have so far:

Some wooden bits...

Stern / Transom still needing some work to get the fit right:

And some components:

Plenty to be done.

Built a 'slip' today to get the keel and frames square. Two forward frames bonded in place. Couple of holes being added to frames before bonding to allow wires to be routed along the length of the boat.

Ordered some 'warm white' 3mm LEDs for the docking lights and some 1.8mm versions in warm white, green and red for the various other locations. Handy that the LEDs come in bags of 50...  In case the resistor calculation is off...  :-))   All 3V LEDs that use 25mA, running from a 11.1V Lipo, I'll be testing with a 330 Ohm resistor paired with each LED.

The chrome fittings that come with the kit look reasonable quality to me. I've seen some comments saying otherwise.  I've seen on some pictures and videos that the fittings were hollow, they're solid now.  So they'll need to be drilled / machined to take the LEDs.

Anyone else have one of these in build..?

Best regards to all

coch y bonddu:
Best place to order Led's from as they will supply the correct resistor for your voltage is Component shop.



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