The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions > Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats:
David's Amati Riva Aquarama Build - With some mods...
DJW:
Hi Dave
Thanks for that. Just been reading through their LED guide. Very useful indeed, thanks again.
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/led-exp/
David.
DJW:
Build progressing... Playing with LEDs in series to reduce cabling and reduce use of resistors. This is two 3mm warm whites for docking lights plus on 1.8mm warm white for cabin interior. On test for 24 hours and seem fine.
Structure now has forward 3 frames bonded to keel and bow reinforcement in place ready to shape. Everything else dry fit at this stage.
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Next bit could be controversial... Given this will be a working model rather than static, I'm thinking of modifying the mid section frames to produce flat chines, to generate lift and throw water clear... Aft and bow sections remain as Carlo intended.
Given the weight of the lipos towards the stern I think this will lift the bow when under way... Against this is a slightly deeper 'Vee'. Any comments before I get the saw out gratefully received.
Stern takes a bit of figuring out to get the bonding order right.
A pair of 4mm shafts and two brass props from Simon at the Prop Shop are on their way, looking forward to seeing them..!
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ukmike:
David.
Please think hard and long before you cut anything, it would be very difficult to correct if you finish the boat and the modifications turn out to be detrimental to the performance.
The Amati Riva builds quite heavy for it's size and is prone to shipping water into the cockpit, especially on turns.
I would give some thought to weight saving at every stage of the build where possible and it is very possible.
Regarding lifting the bow, it would be better achieved by weight saving in the fwd cabin, try not to go overboard with unnecessary detail, after all, it's very difficult to see in there, unless you use lots of lighting.
Lastly, don't forget that if the bow goes up the stern goes down, thus negating your shallow shaft angle.
Just my thoughts.
Mike.
DJW:
Hi Mike
Sensible stuff. Agreed with the weight saving advice.
You have to take your share of responsibility for this build..! Your build log and insights of what can be done with this kit contributed to my decision to attempt it. Just saying.
I'm sure something needs to be done to the Chines, I saw you used some triangular section. Did it work as hoped..?
I saw that you mentioned Rustins Yacht varnish at the beginning of your build, then used Le Tonkinois, a problem with the Rustins..? I was considering Rustins sealant, filler and varnish.
How did your boat ride on the water..? Did that scale rudder shape help stop the excessive banking in turns..?
With hindsight, anything you wish you had or hadn't done during your build..?
Thanks again for your input.
David.
ukmike:
Hello David
The spray rails worked reasonably well but I couldn't test it without them of course. I based my decision whilst watching on another Amati Riva, built from the same kit.
When the chap brought the boat in and lifted it out he had to invert it to pour out the water which it shipped in during the 10 min. run. It ran awfully, particularly when it turned at speed.
Regarding the Rustins varnish, I did buy some and tested on some scrap Mahogany, it took over a week before it was hard enough to rub down, so I did not use it. I know nothing about their filler, having never used it.
I make my own fillers for the appropriate timber.
The LeTonkinois it by far the best, (my opinion ), I won't use anything else. If you go down the LeTonk route, make sure you order the Classic and not the Vernis Marine No.1 which is thinner and doesn't have the level of gloss. It is very good, but my preference is the original Classic.
The family that started the LeTonk factory 80 years ago have recently sold out to a large German company, so if you decide on using it, buy it now while it is still the original recipe.
I've never considered feathering the inside prop whilst turning, I personally see no need, the full size Aquarama didn't have it and can't see any need for it although I know some modelers do use it.
Mike.
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