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[Capt Podge]

Yep, but be careful not to drill right through. Once drilled clear the swarf before installing the propshaft 


Regards,
Ray.

[dave parker]

Excellent thankyou
I intend on learning how to solder properly but just not on this build, so this has saved me

[SailorGreg]

Coming along nicely Dave.  In answer to your questions -

1.  Yes, just bond to the outside of the hull.  If you have any concerns at all about strength, put a couple of pins through the hull and into the skeg, but a decent glue will normally suffice.

2.  That construction sounds pretty robust.  I assume you will use a polyurethane or epoxy adhesive to glue the skeg to the prop shaft tube, and these can fill most of the gap that might be there between tube and skeg.  Or you can be a bit clever and groove the edges of the two parts of the skeg so they fit closely around the tube.  That isn't as hard as it sounds, 10 minutes with a rat tail file will get you pretty close to a good fit.  When you glue the cheek pieces on, I suggest wood glue for the majority but a strip of epoxy (or whatever) along the line of the prop tube.

3.  I normally just use a wood filler from the DIY shop.  I agree polyfilla probably isn't the best, but any proprietary wood filler will do just fine.

4.  I'm not sure I can recommend a sanding sealer - the container I have is as old as the hills (and I can't remember what it is without going out to the man cave), and is the only one I have ever used, so can't offer any comparison.  But don't overthink it - I suspect whatever you find in your local shop will do just fine.

5.  I haven't got an oiler on any of my boats, but I do use waterproof grease in the shaft tube, and I renew it every year, (or when I remember  ), and have had no problem with either leaks or excessive wear.  You don't need to fill the whole tube, I use a quick squirt of something like this in the wet end of the tube before inserting the prop shaft.  Others I know religiously put oilers on all their boats, so I guess you can take your pick.

Hope that helps you on your way.  Enjoy your build!

Greg

[dave parker]

Thanks Greg


I appreciate you taking the time to help.


Am learning from the masters as I go 

[dave parker]

Update time
I have made good progress, learned a lot, some things I would probably do differently  next time
But open to comments

[SailorGreg]

That all looks pretty good to me.  Nice neat woodwork too. 

My only comment is that you have a fairly long length of shaft unsupported inside the boat.  It probably doesn't matter for a Springer, but if you want belt and braces, glue a block of wood under the inboard end of the tube to give extra rigidity.


Greg

[dave parker]

Thanks Greg


It’s on the list

[dave parker]

So next questions...


1 can anybody recommend me a speed controller for this springer? Obviously it’s nothing fancy so doesn’t need to be a top of the range one


2 what type of filler would you you to blend the keel in to the hull?  Obviously wood filler isn’t good enough particularly at this thickness  but I don’t want something that is too hard to sand to shape


Thanks

[Colin Bishop]

Ronseal two part wood filler is very easy to use and sand smooth.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ronseal-High-Performance-Wood-Filler/dp/B001GU4DZQ/ref=sr_1_18?adgrpid=57191892390&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmsrxBRDaARIsANyiD1p0iNIh7JoqXuDDzOX9dVJ7tCbVENfSTvoEz9dweQuwUpKWEgmee00aAme5EALw_wcB&hvadid=259048786937&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1006742&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2458399349746309302&hvtargid=kwd-299442927510&hydadcr=28741_1664620&keywords=ronseal+wood+filler&qid=1580381622&sr=8-18

Colin

[Subculture]

Upol fantastic or easy sand, easy one etc. All work well. Halfords or ebay.

[dave parker]

Brilliant thanks


Now, is there a suggested  main on/off switch???

[SailorGreg]

I use an Mtroniks Viper in my springer (and in other boats), and that comes with an on-off switch already there.  You won't need any more than the 15 amp one.  If you get the plug and play version then installation couldn't be easier.  The only thing you might have to do is change the battery and/or the motor connecting plugs, depending on what you plan to use.


Greg

[coch y bonddu]

Upol fantastic or easy sand, easy one etc. All work well. Halfords or ebay.

Thats what i use i work darned good filler forget Isopon p38 Far to hard to rub down.regardless of what anyone tells you and then you got to overcoat it with the above to get rid of pin holes FACT .




Dave

[Colin Bishop]

The Upol looks very good but it seems you have to spend £25 or more for a much larger quantity that you would normally need for model boating. Are any smaller pack sizes available?

I find the small Ronseal wood filler cans last me for ages and eventually go off long before I've used even half of the contents.

Colin

[DaveM]

The Upol looks very good but it seems you have to spend £25 or more for a much larger quantity that you would normally need for model boating. Are any smaller pack sizes available?
I find the small Ronseal wood filler cans last me for ages and eventually go off long before I've used even half of the contents.

Some folk seem to need more filler than others, Colin. I've used both the Isopon and Ronseal products, applied sparingly and smoothed out with a wet finger. Either works for me although. as you observe, the shelf life is limited. Epoxy and micro-balloons is my preferred method these days.
DaveM

[Colin Bishop]

Dave,

Yes, horses for courses. There is a trade off between buying in bulk on the basis that most of it will end up being wasted or use the more specialised modelling products which may look initially more expensive but actually cost less as you end up using most of the material within its use by date.

I've always felt that if you do a decent build then filler is just needed to smooth off the inevitable minor imperfections rather than compensate for major unintended cavities!

Colin

[coch y bonddu]

Guys ill let you into a little secret here, the tin of easy lite thats in my shed at the moment albeit it is nearly finished is around 4 years old YES you did read that right 4 years old and is as usable as it was when i first opened it.


How do i keep it in good condition...simple really ...open it up and get the amount you need quickly and put the lid back on it properly as simple as that NO tricks at all.


Yes sometimes I have to stir the resin back into it especially if not used for a while...such a hardship !!!!!!!


Dave

[dave parker]

Ronseal 2 part woodfiller is amazing!


Thanks everyone


Now on to speed controllers....


Any alternatives to a viper 15 before I order one?

[Subculture]

Upol Dolphin glaze is available in smaller quantities. It's sold as a stopper, so a bit more runny than their other fillers. In some ways that makes it more suitable for a lot of model work.

[dave parker]

Thanks to SailorGreg I have decided to order a Mtroniks viper 15 speed controller.


Upon reading the instructions it says to keep as far away from receiver as possible.


As you can see from my pics I have a shelf that I intended on putting everything, but this will mean the speed controller is next to the receiver.


Is this a problem?


Should I move the servo in to the middle of the shelf and have the controller and receiver each side?


Any suggestions?


Thanks

[Tug Fanatic]

Personally I would go with the Viper 25. I have known of Viper 15 units giving up when used with 540 motors that theoretically don't get near 15 amps but probably do when sudden acceleration is applied.

If you look at the Mtronics website they often have units used for "testing" at a good price & they still have a guarantee.
https://www.mtroniks.net/prod/ex-demo/viper_Marine_25_ex_demo.htm

[dave parker]

Thanks Tug Fanstic but have already ordered it now

[SailorGreg]

Now just go steady with that throttle lever!     And Mtroniks as well as most wise men recommend fitting a fuse between the battery and ESC so that any untoward spikes don't burn out your electrics.  Many folk use a car blade fuse, either in a holder or with female spade terminals pushed onto the fuse contacts, like this -




(That's not my Springer, but the fuse was easy to photograph in that boat.  And at the risk of tempting fate, I have never (yet) blown a fuse on my boats.)

If you can move the receiver and ESC to opposite sides of the boat that would be good, although if you have already fitted the bits then I would give it a thorough test on dry land to see if you get any odd behaviour.  If possible, get someone to either watch the boat or wiggle the controls (throttle up, down, rudder left, right, throttle change while turning and any other combination you can think of) while you watch the boat so the transmitter can be at a realistic distance.  Tests with the Tx right next to the Rx are not to be trusted!

And remember - so far you're just dipping a toe into the fun to be had with model boats!!   

Enjoy your build

Greg

[dave parker]

Thanks Greg


Yes a lot to learn, just trying to head off in the right direction


Still nervous 

[Tug Fanatic]

........................Still nervous 

Good. It means that you are being careful & making sure that you are doing things right. Your workmanship shows that you are.

Keep going as you are and you will surely have a model to be proud of.