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[Rodgearing]

How do I simulate rivets on the hull of my tug.
I tried using very small brass pins using a pin pusher. Its labour intensive and looks 'orrid.
Any suggestions welcome
I thought small blobs of some glue but that may also be difficult
Some one please help me

[Charlie]

Have a search on YouTube, there are loads of tutorials for all different kinds of methods

[john44]

What is the hull made from? Different materials will possibly require different methods.


John

[destroyer42]

I normally use a pounce wheel, you can get different size wheels. However I use it on plasti card , so if your hull is wood or fibreglass then it will not be any use, unless your plating the hull with plasti card, otherwise use a cocktail stick or pin and superglue to simulate rivets.

Destroyer42

[TailUK]

Look up Archer Transfers online.  They have rivet transfers,  small dots of resin on waterslide transfer paper. You cut them into strips and apply them then varnish over them. Worth a look.

[SailorGreg]

A method I have read about (but never used) is to use a hypodermic needle (available on e-bay, etc.) and slightly diluted wood glue.  The needle allows you to deposit a very small blob of the glue, and off you go planting rivet heads where you want.  As I said, I have never tried it, and it sounds to me like a good way to drive yourself bonkers, but each to his own!
Greg

[SteamboatPhil]

AS Greg has said, it sends you loopy, I only did around the windows on my crash tender (and there are not that many) and started to lose the plot, so much so that in  scale terms several of the rivets would have been about 9 inches in diameter  , but if you do it over a few days you might have better luck, and it is worth it in the end 

[nemesis]

This is what modelling is all about. The boring jobs, done painstaking well always add to the finished model. Considering the size of a rivet head to that of the model its going to be tiny and will vanish with a coat of finish. What I use are entomology pins, very small heads, pin shank is .55mm. Assuming the hull is finished, mark where you want them to be, drill .55 hole, insert pin and draw it through leaving it 1/8" proud. Then paint the heads and when dry, finish pulling through, that way they do not vanish. Did this method on a Waveney L/Boat and that vessel was all rivets. Try it on a sample piece. dressmaking pins have a larger head but sometimes they rust. good luck nemesis

[Baldrick]

Using the glue blob technique i printed out from word processing programme a sheet of dots spaced as I wanted the rivets and printed this out and cut strips of dots and selotaped them with edge of the paper 1mm from the dot. Helped to keep the rivets even but you will still need medication to carry on for long.

[coch y bonddu]

Go to this site and you can buy them ready made


https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?search=rivets


Just scrol down the page




Dave

[RST]

tinternet is full of this.  I've heard quite poor feedback on Archer decals though.  I think a NZ friend on here also said they weren't much use also but I may be wrong!
PVA on pin head / cocktail stick for me.  For plate lines I've often masked off an painted an area a bit more, then peled-off tape before paint is dry.  Works OK to a point.Rich

[Tugtower]

You have to ask yourself a question... show piece or sailable model...


Many people for a active model to use won’t bother with such detail as rivets ( there’s always someone out there to also point out u haven’t got the “correct number or position” either) as rivets can be a pick up point for damage, scrap the hull loose the paint, depleting how you made the rivets, they could also get knocked off (glue drops) and take a chunk of paint with it...


For a show piece “fine scale” then rivets are the way to go for scale accuracy, and there are a few methods, the epoxy method is by far the easiest, either with a cocktail stick and 30min set time epoxy, or use a syringe with a fine needle. Some methods are using real pin heads and you can get a variety of sizes but many will be steel so this can lead to rust problems fixing them to the hull usually involves glue and a drill hole too so time consuming. You can also buy real rivets for hulls in varied sizes and materials from brass to puter (white metal) to plastic, I’m not a fan of slide in transfers it messes with the paint finish at times.


So before committing to the task ask your self do you really need to go that far? Would the paint job be enough?


Good luck tho!

[Pat Matthews]

Glue dot rivets from a kit available in the US (Starwood)- uses a hypo, with various sized square-cut needle tips. Best on dull primed surface, then more primer to seal/lock them on, then top coat.


You get a rhythm after a while, goes quickly enough! Did an entire 1:24 hull- all plating strakes and plating to frames.