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[MartinGough]

[font=-apple-system, blinkmacsystemfont, segoe ui, roboto, oxygen-sans, ubuntu, cantarell, fira sans, droid sans, helvetica neue, helvetica, ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3, hiragino kaku gothic pro, メイリオ, meiryo, ＭＳ Ｐゴシック, arial, sans-serif, apple color emoji, segoe ui emoji, segoe ui symbol]Hello[/font]

[font=-apple-system, blinkmacsystemfont, segoe ui, roboto, oxygen-sans, ubuntu, cantarell, fira sans, droid sans, helvetica neue, helvetica, ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3, hiragino kaku gothic pro, メイリオ, meiryo, ＭＳ Ｐゴシック, arial, sans-serif, apple color emoji, segoe ui emoji, segoe ui symbol]Just starting out building an Aeronaut Queen my first ever boat build. Will post pictures as I go along.[/font]

[font=-apple-system, blinkmacsystemfont, segoe ui, roboto, oxygen-sans, ubuntu, cantarell, fira sans, droid sans, helvetica neue, helvetica, ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3, hiragino kaku gothic pro, メイリオ, meiryo, ＭＳ Ｐゴシック, arial, sans-serif, apple color emoji, segoe ui emoji, segoe ui symbol]Two questions is the supplied prop shaft ok to use and what brushless motor will be ok to use.[/font]
[font=-apple-system, blinkmacsystemfont, segoe ui, roboto, oxygen-sans, ubuntu, cantarell, fira sans, droid sans, helvetica neue, helvetica, ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3, hiragino kaku gothic pro, メイリオ, meiryo, ＭＳ Ｐゴシック, arial, sans-serif, apple color emoji, segoe ui emoji, segoe ui symbol]I have three motors I was thinking of using a Scorpion 3026-8 or an Axi 2826-10 or 2826-12.[/font]

[font=-apple-system, blinkmacsystemfont, segoe ui, roboto, oxygen-sans, ubuntu, cantarell, fira sans, droid sans, helvetica neue, helvetica, ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3, hiragino kaku gothic pro, メイリオ, meiryo, ＭＳ Ｐゴシック, arial, sans-serif, apple color emoji, segoe ui emoji, segoe ui symbol]Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.[/font]

[font=-apple-system, blinkmacsystemfont, segoe ui, roboto, oxygen-sans, ubuntu, cantarell, fira sans, droid sans, helvetica neue, helvetica, ヒラギノ角ゴ pro w3, hiragino kaku gothic pro, メイリオ, meiryo, ＭＳ Ｐゴシック, arial, sans-serif, apple color emoji, segoe ui emoji, segoe ui symbol]Regards Martin[/font]

[Tug Fanatic]

Hidden in there is this message & a whole load of characters that define the page, font etc. I really don't know how you have done that but am I right in thinking that you use an Apple as it includes fonts that I don't think are standard eg hiragino kaku gothic pro?

"Just starting out building an Aeronaut Queen my first ever boat build. Will post pictures as I go along.

Two questions is the supplied prop shaft ok to use and what brushless motor will be ok to use.

I have three motors I was thinking of using a Scorpion 3026-8 or an Axi 2826-10 or 2826-12

Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.

Regards Martin"

[MartinGough]

Thanks Tug Fanatic not sure what happened but I just couldn't get rid of all the mess
and I am unable to edit the post now.
Started on the hull tonight sanded most of the parts down and started to put it together.
Looking forward to the build but have to say worried about skinning the hull.


Regards Martin.
ps do we have to do the verification every time we post?

[Martin (Admin)]

Will that's weird!!
 All tags now removed...
 
Just starting out building an Aeronaut Queen my first ever boat build. Will post pictures as I go along.
Two questions, is the supplied prop shaft ok to use and what brushless motor will be ok to use?
I have three motors I was thinking of using a Scorpion 3026-8 or an Axi 2826-10 or 2826-12.
Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.
 Regards Martin

[Martin (Admin)]

Hidden in there is this message & a whole load of characters that define the page, font etc. I really don't know how you have done that but am I right in thinking that you use an Apple as it includes fonts that I don't think are standard eg hiragino kaku gothic pro?

Beat me to it Tug Fanatic..... except you obviously know what you're talking about!   

[Tug Fanatic]

Beat me to it Tug Fanatic..... except you obviously know what you're talking about!   

I survive but that doesn't mean that I am an expert. I have no idea what has been going on here.

[MartinGough]

A few pictures of the hull. Spent a few hours rubbing down the parts before glueing to
remove the burnt edges, not sure if thats necessary or not. Used the quartz kitchen
worktop as its flat!

[Tugtower]

Aeronaut kits are fantastic models to put together, I’ve built pretty much everything in their range at this point, some even twice! Great kits for newbie and expert alike, always well cut and accurate, very little to go wrong!


The queen is not one of my favs but it’s still a great model, (I’ve to many cabin cruisers as is).


These boats are also highly adaptable to customisation so don’t be afraid to add details and extras, I know I always do!


On a side note my old man just finished building one of their tug kits for a member of the club...

[Tugtower]

To give you some inspiration this is the first classic (from their range) I built 8years ago now...

[MartinGough]

Absolutely stunning boats. Can you explain how you got such a lovely paint and gloss varnish finish.
What paints did you use and method etc.
Hope mine turns out half as good.


Regards Martin.

[Tugtower]

The paint finishes are just standard car paints from Halfords, nothing special, just the right primers for plastics/metals etc.

The varnish finish can be achieved with car lacquer as the easiest form... these boats did not have that done, they use a 2pac epoxy surface varnish designed for floors, it takes about 22-25 coats over a period of 2 weeks or so to build the layers, it’s also expensive, 1L is about £50 +thinners. It’s also not for the faint hearted.

[MartinGough]

Wow thats a lot of effort but I have to say worth it.
Guessing you sand between coats.

[MartinGough]

Done a bit more on the hull.

[MartinGough]

Done a little more today between other jobs. Used my steam iron to help
bend the longitudinal strips so that they are not under tension. Worked
well.

[MartinGough]

Been putting the hull skins on and found it hard work.
The sides weren't too bad but the bottoms are more difficult.
I have fitted them accurately where they meet the sides but
this has left we with a gap on the bottom. I will have to put
a packing strip on the inside of the hull and then do something
on the outside probably fill the gap with epoxy or epoxy a sliver
of ply or har balsa in the gap. Any ideas would be appreciated
on the fix.

[SailorGreg]

Building on the kitchen worktop, and using the steam iron to bend the stringers......   



You're not married, are you?   


But it's looking good.  As for the gaps you have, I am of the view that if the gap is big enough to take a sliver of wood, that's what it should take, and use filler to take away any hairline cracks that remain.

Keep the piccies coming.

Greg

[MartinGough]

Cheers Greg


Yep you guessed it not married but the worktop is really flat so a great build surface.
Have just bought a hand steamer for clothing of Amazon for £10 which works brilliantly.


Regards Martin

[Tugtower]

I usually draw a center line on the keel and match up one side to fit correctly to the center line, glue that down and wait till dry, the other side I then trim in to fit the skin already attached, chamfered edges and such.


I don’t tend to get a gap, I may get a seam gap due to way one side is chamfered across the keel but nothing that cross sanding over won’t resolve to give me that perfect edge.


It’s always a bit tricky fitting skins, it usually takes a few attempts to get one right, for those really tricky bows I have a habit of screwing the skin to the keel while the glue dried, then I patch the holes before paint. Some hulls worse than other, getting the frames true, flat and square helps a lot but those base boards are far from perfect, so slight twisting can occur easy enough, fortunate tho that you can untwist it with the side skins, as the base ones don’t effect it.


Practise makes perfect.... ive been doing this for way to long now and sometimes even I make a pigs ear of it and end up glassing and patching and p38 it till it’s right! But it looks good see if u can get the 2nd skin to butt up against the first to reduce the gap, The side skins are a little oversize so you may have enough play.

[MartinGough]

Thanks tug tower great advice. I was going to make some new skins for the
bottom as they were in my case slightly too small but then thought fit them
then fix any issues, it's all a big learning curve. I had an idea this would be
a tough part of the build to get right. I'll keep posting and let you know how
I get on. Be good for anyone else trying this model and maybe like me for
the first time.


Regards Martin.

[MartinGough]

Finished fitting the bottom skins. The sides are ok but I'm left with a gap in the middle.
Have fitted supports for the unsupported parts of the skin inside the hull and will inlay
some ply tomorrow when I've rubbed it all down and had another look.

[ChrisF]

Hi Martin - yes, I was nervous when  I fitted skins for the first time as I was with sanding the stringers and keel to profile. But I'm on my fourth hull build from scratch now and enjoy fitting the skins as they really bring the hull to life.

Too late for you now but I always start with the bottom skins. Fit one edge along the keel and secure with a screw near the transom - always do this following my first build when the skin moved when gluing and clamping and I didn't notice. I cut the skin oversize at the chine stringer and then sand back with a Perma-Grit block (must have tool!). Cut the second skin, again oversize at the stringer, and butt up to the first skin along the keel. There will be a small gap as the edge of the ply is cut square which is easily filled. I suppose you could chamfer the edges but you're still likely to get some gaps at points along the keel. Again sand back to the chine stringer. I then cut out the side skins making them oversize at the deck and at the bottom stringer. Once the glue has set sand them back to the abutment with the bottom skins and the deck. Unless using very thin ply e.g. 1mm you will need to steam the skins where they curve at the bow. As well as screws and clamps I use parcel tape (particularly at joints between skins where you can't clamp) and using this method achieve nice neat and tight joints.

Chris

[MartinGough]

Thanks Chris


My first build so a lot to learn. As its a kit the skins came pre cut, I did think about making my own
but thought just fir them and sort any issues. I am going to build a Bearospace Annie Schooner so
will take on board what you say for future projects. Thanks again great advice always welcome. I've
filled in the gaps tonight with some ply on edge tapered where necessary. See what it looks like in the
morning. If ok I will look at the prop shaft and rudder fitting and then seal the job with some penetrating
epoxy before final fitting of the prop and rudder.


Regards Martin.


 

[canabus]

Hi Martin

I got mine second hand, it has no chine or spray rails on the boat.
It's a very wet runner, the plan is to add these and repaint the bottom.
It's running a 50mm 910kv brushless, 45mm 2 blade prop with a 3S 5800mah Lipo.
A bit on the slow side for me, but plan to go to 4S as the motor etc will handle it.
It like the weight to the stern to get the bow up.

Canabus

[MartinGough]

Hi Canabus


Thanks for that info. Ive bought a 3673 2230kv water-cooled motor, a 70amp water cooled
esc and a 50mm 3 blade prop which I plan to run 4s hope that combination works.
What esc are you running Canabus?


Regards Martin.

[canabus]

Hi Martin
Running a Hobbyking 100A car ESC.

Canabus