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Author Topic: Hunter's moon build  (Read 41313 times)

ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #175 on: June 27, 2020, 04:06:46 pm »

Looking really smart Joe. Don't forget the bow rail!

Chris
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Building Fairey Marine boats: River Cruiser 23 prototype, Huntress 23 Long Cabin with stern-drive, Huntsman 28, Huntsman 31 and Swordsman 33 and two more to come! All scratch built and to a scale of 1:12

radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #176 on: June 27, 2020, 04:26:11 pm »

Funny you should mention that Chris I've been pondering over it for a couple of days I know the large pulpit is quite a noticeable part of the Huntsman but I can see it being vulnerable to damage from getting the boat down the stairs, in and out the car etc. I may not have one, I'll give it some more thought  {:-{


Joe
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ballastanksian

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #177 on: June 27, 2020, 05:38:15 pm »

Could you make the pulpit strong enough to be a handle Joe? If its in your hand then it isn't going to get bonked unless you have severely impacted your hand first. It all depends on the mounting of the stanchions etc, but some brass structures can be quite strong.
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #178 on: June 27, 2020, 06:23:23 pm »

See what you mean Ian, the only problem I can see is the gauge of the rod to make the pulpit, a full size one would be 25 to 30mm stainless steel so on the model I would guess around 2 to 2.5 rod, there's only four fixing points to the deck and two joints in the pulpit, I think these would have to be silver soldered to be of any strength, I don't have the equipment to silver solder, and may not look right in brass and probably even worse painted, this is why I thought about omitting it. {:-{


Joe
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #179 on: June 27, 2020, 06:41:21 pm »

Hi Joe
I have one of the big 47" Huntsman and that is cumbersome, yours should be Ok. Making it strong enough to use as a handle isn't really practicable and if it were you might as well carry it with one hand under the bow.

If you do fit one you could always extend the stand to protect it or better still a carry box. They look Ok if painted silver if you don't want to use chrome paint.

It looks great anyway.

Chris
 
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DaveM

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #180 on: June 27, 2020, 07:44:42 pm »

Hi Joe
There are actually two struts each side, making six attachment points and four soldered joints in total. I would use S/Steel TIG welding rod, with low-temperature silver-solder and flux from Cupalloy. 3mm brass would also do the job but it must be silver-soldered and painted chrome -  and don't even think of using it as a handle.
DaveM
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #181 on: June 27, 2020, 10:37:06 pm »

Yes I have seen them with four legs, I was going by the pic I've been using as a reference that only has two, and as I said a couple of posts ago it would need silver solder that I don't have the equipment to do and I would never do enough silver soldering to make the cost viable, so rather than botch something together I think I'll leave it off.


joe
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ballastanksian

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #182 on: June 27, 2020, 11:27:49 pm »

I see now that it certainly does not protrude as much as I recall seeing on other models, therefore not best as a handle!


If you can lug it about with your hand on the bow then you will have a good part of the pulpit protected.


I definitely agree with Chris about boxes.
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #183 on: June 28, 2020, 11:03:29 am »

Yes I too agree a carry case would be the best protection if I were sailing boats on a regular basis two or three times a month but I don't sail anything like that more like a couple of times a year so a case would be overkill for me.


There was a length of 2.5mm wire in the box with the hull and from the markings stamped on the end it's clearly welding rod it's copper coated steel and obviously meant for the pulpit, Now as always with the welcome comments from you guys and the discussion about the pulpit my interest in low temperature silver soldering has been piqued, so I've ordered a few thin rods and some easy flow to practice with and see if my small butane torch will do the job, it was cheaper than I had thought,  If I do make the pulpit I'll use brass rod not the steel welding rod, the problem is brass rod by post is 12" or 300mm long and I need at least 18" for the main part of the pulpit so I need to find somewhere to get longer lengths.


Joe
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DaveM

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #184 on: June 28, 2020, 11:18:01 am »

CMB strikes again! https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/brass_rod.html
Here's an alternative  https://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Strip-Shape/Circular-Rod/Metal/Item/Brass-rod-long/ITM1943


Do take care not to overheat the brass as it will become soft with heat and may bend out of shape unless you make up a holding jig like this one. BTW the reason why the pulpit doesn't overhang the bow by much is that moorings are charged by boat length. These Fairey owners might be rich but they're careful!


DaveM
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #185 on: June 28, 2020, 11:25:41 am »

Thanks Dave, I knew they did 12" and 300mm , must have missed the longer ones  :-)) 
Yes I was thinking of a mockup of the bows if I do the pulpit


Joe
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warspite

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #186 on: June 28, 2020, 12:44:41 pm »

Ever considered having it removable?, store in the cabin area whilst in transit, fit at the lake side !
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Mark T

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #187 on: June 28, 2020, 02:20:15 pm »

Hi Joe the build is looking beautiful mate  :-))   I wish that I had seen this earlier as like you I don't have any special silver soldering tools but I do use this


https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/index.asp


I just clean up the brass or stainless steel with wire wool and apply a tiny bit of this out of the syringe.  Its very low temperature so I just use a blow torch of the sort you can buy at B&Q.  It works great and its very strong and its saves messing with separate flux and rods.

radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #188 on: June 28, 2020, 04:47:12 pm »

Ever considered having it removable?, store in the cabin area whilst in transit, fit at the lake side !




Well it's worth considering, I initially thought the holes in the deck would enlarge with constant removal ,but a bit of brass tube in each hole would cure that my only other concern would be vibration from motors or waves etc. but still worth thinking about.  :-))


Joe.
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #189 on: June 28, 2020, 04:50:47 pm »

Hi Joe the build is looking beautiful mate  :-))   I wish that I had seen this earlier as like you I don't have any special silver soldering tools but I do use this


https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/index.asp


I just clean up the brass or stainless steel with wire wool and apply a tiny bit of this out of the syringe.  Its very low temperature so I just use a blow torch of the sort you can buy at B&Q.  It works great and its very strong and its saves messing with separate flux and rods.




Thanks for the tip Mark, I've been using solder paste for years but didn't know you could get it in Silver solder. :-))




Joe
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #190 on: June 30, 2020, 04:10:23 pm »

I invested a tenner in some Silver solder rods and easyflo flux, it came today so I did a few practice pieces first with brass and then brass/steel, my butane torch was fine with this size metal, and did some quite reasonable joints, so I thought I'll do a practice pulpit using the steel rod that came with the hull, well when I'd finished it I was actually quite pleased with it and thought it was good enough to actually use, I've gone for the four footed version like the Fairey Hunstman picture not because it was easier but I think my fore deck could be a bit shorted than some others, maybe I've got the cabins further forward, so for me it looks ok, now need to get some chrome paint, and still looking for some suitable cleats and fairleads I've trawled though CMBs lists but can't find any that look right.
I've always said this Forum pushes you to do more than you think you can do, I still believe that, I'll use Silver Solder from now on and only use soft solder for electrical joints :-))




Joe
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DaveM

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #191 on: June 30, 2020, 05:02:35 pm »

Super job, Joe. I told you it's not difficult.
DaveM
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roycv

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #192 on: June 30, 2020, 06:10:01 pm »

Hi as far as the pulpit goes I used brass tubing with hard brass wire that was a close fit.  I found that ordinary solder wire was a good fit inside while I carefully bent it to shape then retrieved the solder.  The solder prevents the brass tubing from deforming. 

I used close fitting brass wire as the supports and also in the ends of the pulpit to anchor it into the deck.  Where the uprights go into the tubing I made a small hole so the wire could locate and then soft soldered the joint.  My model is to 1 : 24th scale so a bit smaller at 15 1/2 inches loa.  The chrome type paint now available brings it up to the right look.
regards
Roy
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roycv

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #193 on: June 30, 2020, 06:18:17 pm »

How will you represent the 'supports' and framing for the wrap around wind screen?  I am just at that point doing a repair job to my one.
regards
Roy
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #194 on: June 30, 2020, 06:42:35 pm »

Super job, Joe. I told you it's not difficult.
DaveM


Thanks Dave and also for your continued encouragement.. :-))


Joe.
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #195 on: June 30, 2020, 07:12:24 pm »

How will you represent the 'supports' and framing for the wrap around wind screen?  I am just at that point doing a repair job to my one.
regards
Roy


Hi Roy, all I did with the screen was to bond strips of mahognany to each side of the screen where it fits to the cockpit sides and masked off to represent a frame, sanded the area to be painted with 600 grit and painted it silver, the screen is not glued just fixed with tiny brass screws so easily removed if it get damaged,




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roycv

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #196 on: June 30, 2020, 07:28:40 pm »

Hi radioJ I should have looked more carefully as the reflection was close by.  My previous screen was carefully masked 2 or 3 coats of paint which stood up well.  I will go down the paint road, I tried some lining tape but it is too wide.

If you look under a thread Pleasure / leisure/ diana 14 inch semi scale Huntress on this forum.  I posted a picture of my boat (it is not Diana), when the thread was on about power trains.
I worked out my model is a bit over 35 years old.  You can see where I have repaired the pulpit with some tubing.

best regards
Roy
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ballastanksian

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #197 on: June 30, 2020, 08:44:31 pm »

Silver solder paste?  %%  Wow, that sounds like a good idea as does the low temp silver solder.


Anyhow, the boat progresses well, and the screen is a super example of precision model making (as does the pulpit.)
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Shipmate60

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #198 on: June 30, 2020, 10:10:49 pm »

Looking good Joe.


Bob
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #199 on: June 30, 2020, 10:44:01 pm »

Thanks guys, this is another model that has taught me a lot and to try new things.


just can't find the right cleats and fairleads like these in the pics well that stile anyway.




Joe
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