Topic: Barry Pilotage Cutter (Read 13113 times)

Baldrick · « **Reply #25 on:** October 19, 2020, 07:49:34 pm »

Quote from: ChrisF on October 19, 2020, 04:28:13 pm

You have made an excellent job of the hull and it will look lovely once varnished.

What type of timber and size was used for the first layer of planking?

Chris

Hi Chris.
The first layer planking was all 6 X 1.5mm lime , second layer planking 6 X 1.5mm Walnut above waterline, below waterline 5 X 1.5mm mahogany

ChrisF · « **Reply #26 on:** October 19, 2020, 10:44:23 pm »

Thanks, that's great.

Chris

Baldrick · « **Reply #27 on:** October 26, 2020, 04:48:14 pm »

The marathon begins, might not be too bad when I get the production line refined.

derekwarner · « **Reply #28 on:** October 26, 2020, 09:39:28 pm »

eh?.................why do you do this Baldrick? ......won't lots and lots a holes will let the water in?

Derek

Baldrick · « **Reply #29 on:** October 27, 2020, 08:24:24 am »

Quote from: derekwarner on October 26, 2020, 09:39:28 pm

eh?.................why do you do this Baldrick? ......won't lots and lots a holes will let the water in? Derek

Err - not really, because the rivets go through into the cross frames, the location of which I took care to mark out on the keel before finishing the planking. Inside of which is 3 layers of resin.. Also when the copper rivets have oxidised and lost their shine their will be 3 coats of varnish over the whole hull area. At present the hull is bare wood with just a wipe over of sanding sealer

derekwarner · « **Reply #30 on:** October 27, 2020, 09:28:52 am »

eh?....final vision sounds amazingly beautiful

...that is to a salty mind I mean

.......would you be good enough to give us a view of the drilling jig...with explanation of use?......and what diameter are these copper inserts?

Derek

Baldrick · « **Reply #31 on:** October 27, 2020, 07:29:37 pm »

Hi Derek.
The rivets are 0.75mm dia and I am using a 0.7mm drill in the dremel and a hand twiddle drill. The template I am using is a very thin stainless steel Modelcraft scribing template which is very flexible to lay over the curve of the hull. I have taped it to give me holes at 3mm crs. To use it, I lay the template round the hull from rail to keel and mark a line in yellow pencil then drill my first hole at the top rail, tap a pin in the first template hole and lay the template over the line. Prick the holes remove template and drill them (10 holes) then repeat round to the keel . Find I can do about 50 rivets per hour but only a couple of sessions a day as it's a bit intense . Recon I can do all the 3,000 rivets in about a month if I don't burn out.

Baldrick · « **Reply #32 on:** December 27, 2020, 09:42:42 pm »

Decided that this is the stage to make the stern post and rudder assembly . Have deviated from the suggested arrangement which did not give me any confidence as to it's strength. My arrangement sternpost is a 7 ply sandwich . Similarly the the rudder is a composite ply build up . I am having to work this together with the stern deck construction to ensure the steering is functionable.

colin-stevens · « **Reply #33 on:** December 29, 2020, 02:32:36 pm »

Looking amazing, really nice work. Can I ask where you got the rivets from?

Regards

Colin

Baldrick · « **Reply #34 on:** December 30, 2020, 12:50:49 pm »

Hi Colin . The rivets came from John Hemmens (eventually ) they were part of a kit of his.

The rudder has taken a fair bit of thought, this is how it has manifested . It is in primer but ready to be fixed onto the hull.

colin-stevens · « **Reply #35 on:** December 30, 2020, 05:56:53 pm »

Ahhhhhh, Ok thanks. Will carry on looking in that case.

Baldrick · « **Reply #36 on:** January 06, 2021, 03:23:05 pm »

Back end now in order with stern post fitted, decided not to fit the rudder until I have built a suitable stand and support which will be next on the list, just have to source some decent wood for it.

Baldrick · « **Reply #37 on:** January 18, 2021, 07:22:10 pm »

Assembled the steering gear. It works nice and smoothly but at the moment it is only jury rigged using cotton cord . I now want to replace that with something more substantial, fine chain, nylon filament, fine copper braided wire , but am having trouble finding anything the shops have in stock any suggestions welcomed. Looking for something about 0.5mm in dia

awvs · « **Reply #38 on:** January 19, 2021, 12:14:43 am »

Hi Baldrick,
you could use braided fishing line which is very strong and available in various diameters. I am sure you get it in a small quantity at any fishing shop.

Wilhelm

derekwarner · « **Reply #39 on:** January 19, 2021, 12:28:50 am »

You may need to consider going overscale

?

0.5mm diameter 300 Series stainless steel black woven wire from the Fish Tackle shops...relatively inexpensive & available in small length quantities, ZERO stretch
You would also need to manufacture your own clamping devices, [as Granny knots wouldn't be suitable, and the standard crimps of similar vein]
In addition a pair of turnbuckles for final centering and tensioning for either side of the Servo Tiller arm

Not sure of the working minimum bend radius?....so maybe 300% on the diameter of the 4 transmission wheels...but that shouldn't be too difficult to disguise the aft pair[I pose the question here between working <<<<I>>>>> bend radius and a permanent

set crimp

Derek

tonyH · « **Reply #40 on:** January 19, 2021, 09:50:12 am »

You could always do what often appears and put a grating over the quadrant etc.

steve mahoney · « **Reply #41 on:** January 19, 2021, 06:15:50 pm »

Fishing trace (braided wire) is very stiff and you would have trouble getting it to conform to this tight angles.

Baldrick · « **Reply #42 on:** January 22, 2021, 02:11:47 pm »

Thanks to you all for your comments, following the lines of thought that you have given me I have decided to try Beadalon bead stringing thread. As it name suggests it is sold on jewellery supplies sites. The one I am going with is a multi strand (49) stainless steel filaments nylon covered wire 0.9mm in diameter . Tremendous strength but more interestingly very flexible, as much so as thread in fact you can knot it. Just have to wait for it to come

Baldrick · « **Reply #43 on:** January 24, 2021, 03:08:42 pm »

Well I am happy with that . The Beadalon filament works well , no slack in the system, smallest movement of the servo gives an instant response on the rudder. It all feels nice and solid. I incorporated a link piece at the servo so that the rudder could always be easily centred.

Baldrick · « **Reply #44 on:** February 08, 2021, 04:22:40 pm »

awvs · « **Reply #45 on:** February 08, 2021, 04:34:59 pm »

Excellent job, looking great.

Wilhelm

Baldrick · « **Reply #46 on:** March 07, 2021, 09:22:19 pm »

Starting to bring the superstructure forward, waiting for a bit more warmth outside so that I can varnish the hull

Capt Podge · « **Reply #47 on:** March 07, 2021, 09:59:11 pm »

Quote from: Baldrick on January 06, 2021, 03:23:05 pm

decided not to fit the rudder until I have built a suitable stand and support which will be next on the list, just have to source some decent wood for it

Hi Baldrick, did you manage to find the wood you want to build the stand with yet?

Ray.

Baldrick · « **Reply #48 on:** March 08, 2021, 08:54:10 am »

HI Ray.
No , not yet , still sitting on desk with some chock blocks. Must get the stand sorted if I am going to varnish the hull

Cheers . B

Baldrick · « **Reply #49 on:** March 27, 2021, 07:17:51 pm »

Still looking for some wood for the stand. In the meantime.!

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Author Topic: Barry Pilotage Cutter (Read 13113 times)