Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Clinker Build  (Read 380 times)

Henry70x

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 27
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Peterborough
Clinker Build
« on: August 22, 2020, 10:32:11 AM »

I am looking to build. a clinker hull boat from scratch, and need advice, and guidance on the method of forming the planks, and achieving the overlap.
Any help will be grateful.
Many Thanks
Logged

Jerry C

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,199
  • Location: Caernarfon, North Wales.
Re: Clinker Build
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2020, 12:07:36 PM »

Itís very difficult to put into words but if you understand the basic principal youíve got a chance, here goes. A clinker boat is built onto strong frames securely fastened to a rigid building base. You are shown on the lines plan half the shape of these frames which are the shape of the INSIDE of the planks. On the lines plan they are shown as the forward frames on one side of the centre lines and the after set on the other side. Fold a piece of paper in half and trace the first frame onto one side with centre line on the fold. Cut out the frame and then open the paper and label it no. 1. Repeat for all frames, numbering consecutively. Place each piece of paper on the sheet of wood you will cut the frames out of. Ensure the centre line (fold) of the paper is perpendicular to the edge of the wood sheet and that the base of the paper is at the height above the base line of that frame station as is shown on the plan. Draw around the paper and repeat for each frame. When all drawn on the wood sheet carefully cut out the frames. Next you must attach the frames to the building board. I used those white plastic blocks you use to join flatpack furniture together, they have 3 screw holes in them. Only one face of the frames is correct. The forward frames must be fitted to the building board in front of the station with the aft side exactly on station. The aft set are fitted to the board aft of the station with the forward face of the frame on station. All frames must be perpendicular to the building board. Screw a long thin (1/4Ē) strip of wood to one one side of the centre line leaving just enough room for the keel assembly to fit(remove this strip when keel , stem and sternpost are fitted this is to keep the top of the frames perpendicular to the building board and equidistant. Youíre nearly in a position to start planning. You have to do a bit of carving on the keel and stempost and sternpost or tea some for the first planks (garboard planks to slot into but I canít begin to describe that operation. Now comes that first principle I mentioned earlier. Count the number of planks to be fitted each side and remember this figure. There are only two planks that are straight and parallel. These are the garboard planks and fit either side of the keel and are fitted slightly into it. There is a little bit at the stem that tapers into and slots a little bit into the stem post. All that is the easy bit. Every plank from here on is different to the next. You make the next plank on one side and make an exact copy for the other side. You fit both, one after the other. And repeat for the next and so on. Donít whatever you do try to do all the planks on on side then do the other or youíll end up with a banana. So you have the keel, stempost and sternpost or tea some fitted with the garboard planks. Halve that number and take away one. That how many planks you have to fit each side. Here is the secret. You divide each frame along its remaining outside length into that number of equal parts and mark them on the frames permanently. The spaces will be different on each frame getting smaller the further away from the midship ( biggest) frame you go. Each new pair of planks you make overlaps the previous plank ( beginning with the garboards) the same amount as shown on the plan. That amount most be shaved off the previous  plank very carefully so the next plank will lie flat on the previous plank and give a decent gluing surface. Donít even think of using copper nails and roofed as the scale makes it unpractical, you can paint them in later. I used a 1/2Ē wide strip of Formica ( a thing that bends evenly) and pinned it to the tea along the next plank lines marked on the frames then used a tiny Rolson plane guided by the bendy strip to make the chamfer on the period plank to the correct and constant throughout width. Next get your next two planks stock ready (they will need to be wider th the size indicated on the midship frame) and lay it on the previous plank so that it just covers the chamfer on the previous plank and also covers all the frame markings for this plank and clamp it. Now on the inside with a sharp stubby pencil mark the new plank by running the pencil down the top of the previos plank. Marie the frame positions on the inside of the new plank then remove the plank. Add on to the line you drew the width of the chamfer and using a bendy stick draw in the bottom of the new plank. Thatís halfway. Now pick off the distance to the top of the plank on each frame and transfer to the plank at the same frames and mark them on the plank and using the bendy stick draw in the top of the plank. Cut out the plank, make an exact copy. The planks all overlap the previous plank but at the ends you have to remove a chamfer from each plank tapering to half thickness so that at the stem and sternpost/transom they lie flush. This is called geralding. Repeat for other side. Glue up and clamp them. Then have a lie down. The most I managed was two pairs a day and I was full time. Finger sore now so will stop. Please look up my build ď Jerryís steam launch wear and pattern makers build of wide a wake for more details and info and donít hesitate to ask for help.
Jerry.

Jerry C

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,199
  • Location: Caernarfon, North Wales.
Re: Clinker Build
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2020, 12:11:54 PM »

Print out my previous and read it while looking at the plans. If any photos missing off my build I may be able to help.
Jerry.

Colin Bishop

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 10,767
  • Location: SW Surrey, UK
Re: Clinker Build
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2020, 01:06:48 PM »

You may also fined this illustrated article on the Model Boat magazine website useful. Its is a relatively simple subject but the principles apply to larger craft.

https://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/rowing-dinghy/4445

Colin
Logged

SailorGreg

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,056
  • Money talks - it says goodbye
  • Location: Hayling Island, Hants
Re: Clinker Build
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2020, 02:48:49 PM »

I, like you, embarked on a clinker hull for the first time just recently.  My build is here on Mayhem which might give you some pointers.  The most important piece of advice I can give you is DON'T GIVE UP!  (Oh, and use very sharp tools  O0 .)  There will be times when you cannot see how it is going to work, or you simply cannot get a plank to fit.  Take a break, take the dog for a walk, have a beer, do something different.  It will all look a bit easier when you go back to it.  And you might want to do what I did, which is do a full size trial run on a hull that you know will never get finished (use crappy wood), but is the vehicle for making all your mistakes - you hope!

(Incidentally, there are a few typos in Jerry's description which might confuse a bit - for example I think "tea some" should be "transom" - is that right Jerry?)


Good luck, and keep asking questions.

Greg

Jerry C

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,199
  • Location: Caernarfon, North Wales.
Re: Clinker Build
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2020, 12:50:11 AM »

Only one typo?! I wroted that late at night on my phone with one finger still covered in superglue from working on present launch. From memory too. And yes it should reed transom. Eyes still crossed this morning. 
Jerry.




Henry70x

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 27
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Peterborough
Re: Clinker Build
« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2020, 07:34:47 PM »

Thanks to all for advice and info, which I will digest and make sense of before I start
HENRY70x
Logged

dreadnought72

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,898
  • Wood butcher with ten thumbs
  • Location: Airdrie, Scotland
Re: Clinker Build
« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2020, 07:37:12 PM »

Henry, take a look at this thread. It's a 1/8th scale clinker build.


Andy
Logged
Enjoying every minute sailing W9465 Mertensia
Pages: [1]   Go Up