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Author Topic: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build  (Read 1632 times)

GrahamD

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Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« on: September 07, 2020, 03:56:07 pm »


98% Slec crash tender almost completed, thought it was time to start another, and being very impressed with the Slec kit, it makes sense to try another, this time the Fairy Huntsman (1/16 scale)

Obligatory box contents pic  :}





Starting point, getting the keel prepared and built





Again very happy with the way the parts fit, Even simple things like the hole for the rudder is included (needs opening out, but thats easy compared to drilling it a fresh and getting it slightly out of kilter)








Just a case of putting the lamination's together





I added the prop shaft (dry) just to make sure its aligned perfectly before adding two joining parts.





As stated earlier, very happy with the way the parts go together, so impressed I now have another large Slec box just arrived   %)
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GrahamD

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2020, 04:55:21 pm »

And the keel is completed, ready to add the bulkheads etc


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Colin Bishop

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2020, 07:05:26 pm »

I built the Model Boats magazine review model and the kit is certainly extremely well designed. Just a word of advice. Do not depart from the instructions as you could get into trouble further down the line. If the instructions appear to be in error or parts don't appear to fit then stop and take stock as it will almost certainly you that has misunderstood something. All the information you need is in the two booklets but sometimes you need to study them carefully.

One thing which can cause a potential problem is that I understand the kit is now supplied with an optional printed deck overlay which fits on top of the structural deck. The instructions state that the deck coamings should be fitted to give 6mm (1/4 inch) standing above deck level. This means actual deck level so if you are using the overlay take the extra 2mm or so into account otherwise it is possible that you might have slight problems in constructing the cabin superstructure. My Huntsman didn't have an overlay option but when building its Swordsman stablemate I fitted the deck overlay loosely in place when assembling the cabin structure.

Enjoy the build, it's a lovely kit.

Colin
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GrahamD

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2020, 07:52:43 pm »

Thanks Colin, all noted (I hope)


Two halves of the deck now joined





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DaveM

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2020, 11:05:22 pm »

This means actual deck level so if you are using the overlay take the extra 2mm or so into account otherwise it is possible that you might have slight problems in constructing the cabin superstructure.

If you're building this kit then do check on that thickness. I did specify 0.8mm ply for the deck overlay but that's no guarantee that SLEC have used that.
Dave M
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Tug Fanatic

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2020, 08:13:16 am »

I built the Model Boats magazine review model.................................

Colin

Colin & DaveM

I note that you have built both the Huntsman 31 and the Swordsman. Whilst they are not the same model they are a similar size and weight and share many characteristics.

The power train recommended for the Swordsman is a 750kv motor running 3S (with remarkably low current consumption) whilst the Huntsman specifies 1000kv on 3S. Both specify a 2 Bl, specified as 35mm,  Plastic Prop although whether high pitch or low pitch I am not sure. I note that on the Swordsman Colin use a 3Bl 35mm PropShop brass prop.

Would you please offer a comparison of the drive systems.
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DaveM

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2020, 09:20:48 am »

All of my own Fairey models use Prop Shop 3-blade cast bronze props of the General Scale pattern. Inclusion of this type of prop in the kit would be prohibitively expensive so SLEC offer a useable 2-blade plastic alternative. Ultimately it's up to the user to choose the best prop for his own model.
BTW Swordsman is not only a wee bit longer than Huntsman but a lot broader in the beam, so it needs a prop/motor/battery which will provide more torque. The real H31 is much faster than the S33, to the extent that the Swordsman is nicknamed The Floating Country Cottage by its owners.
Dave M
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2020, 09:54:21 am »

Grahame and TugF,

Re the planking overlay, I'm sure Dave is right it's nearer 1mm than 2 but it still makes a difference, certainly on the Swordsman. Also, I should have mentioned that the coamings need to stand vertical from the sub deck. When you fit them there is a tendency for them to splay out slightly around the curvature at the front end. This in turn pushes the cabin sides out so that the cabin front doesn't fit properly in its intended location and the cabin has to be moved forward to close the gap which gives rise to issues at the other end! This is what I meant by saying that if something doesn't seem to fit then you've made an error! If the coamings are vertical, either by fitting them that way or sanding them back (as I did on my Huntsman), you won't have any problems. On an older type kit which usually requires a bit of fettling you can usually bodge this type of thing but the CNC cut parts on the SLEC Faireys are dead accurate!

For the power train on both my models I used the Prop Shop props as recommended by Dave because they look good and are not expensive for what they are. The plastic black two bladers will still work fine though. I have actually de rated my Huntsman to a 2S LiPo as I found the performance on 3S a bit much for my ageing reflexes! The Swordsman on the recoommended setup is a lot more foregiving due to its wider beam as one would expect.

Colin
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zooma

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2020, 01:47:26 pm »

BTW Swordsman is not only a wee bit longer than Huntsman but a lot broader in the beam, so it needs a prop/motor/battery which will provide more torque. The real H31 is much faster than the S33, to the extent that the Swordsman is nicknamed The Floating Country Cottage by its owners.
Dave M


Thats a nice quote that I have not heard before Dave - "The Floating Country Cottage".


I will remember that as I am cutting the parts out for my 1/12 scale Swordsman - it makes me smile  :-))


Bob.
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GrahamD

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2020, 04:15:05 pm »

Literally minutes later we have the bulkheads and the stringers added.


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GrahamD

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2020, 11:26:47 am »

Couple of quick updates


Skins now on, and sanding down








Went on a lot easier than the crash tender, but then its a smaller model  %%


Covered with Lite weight fiberglass cloth and started applying Poly-C





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zooma

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #11 on: September 27, 2020, 11:43:00 am »

Good progress - itís coming together nicely.
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Koinonia

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #12 on: September 27, 2020, 05:03:36 pm »

Hi, just joined.  Built the SLEC Huntsman 31 during lockdown.  Found the instructions good. Converted mine to twin 400 engine and rudders as per real boat.  Lots of pics on Fairey Marine website. Twin screw with fixed trim tabs on Lipo 2S and sits and panes very nicely.  Enjoy the build.
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zooma

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #13 on: September 27, 2020, 06:35:37 pm »

The Huntsman 31 is a lovely boat to model, but I want mine to be 1/12 scale so it has some relevance to my Swordsman that is also 1/12 scale - so I will have to make mine from plan.
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clockworks

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #14 on: September 27, 2020, 07:05:30 pm »

Not having much luck with my SLEC Huntsman. First time out, the prop fell off after a minute. I think I forgot to check the locknut after the bathtub test.


Second time out, with a new prop and a drop of Loctite, it was making some horrible noises. A club member suggested it might be because the front end of the propshaft tube was not supported enough.


Third time out today, with a wooden fillet epoxied in place to support the tube, it was, if anything, even noisier.  Fine at low RPM, bag of nails at midrange RPM and at fast cruise speed. Nice and quiet when flat out.


When I got home I tried running it on the bench - 2 distinct RPMs where it sounded horrible, a screeching/rattling sound. I tried swapping the motor, coupling and ESC to no avail.
I removed the rudder and pulled the shaft out, gave it a wipe down, and noticed some traces of brass where the shaft runs in the front bearing. I polished the marks off, relubed, and tried again. Still very noisy, and the front end of the tube was getting warm! Obviously excessive friction on the front bearing.


I pulled the shaft out again, and checked by rolling on a flat surface (old plate glass shelf). Shaft was bowed in the middle by a couple of mm. Spent an hour trying to straighten it, gave up, and pinched the inner shaft that I was going to fit in my current build - an SLEC Huntress. This one was actually straight, and after cutting a bit off the end, the Huntsman is running much quieter.


Moral of the story - check propshafts for straightness before fitting.
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #15 on: September 27, 2020, 07:42:44 pm »

In my case it was the rubber centre coupling that caused most of the vibration.

You can buy a replacement shaft for the Huntress from Model Boat Bits.

Colin
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DaveM

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #16 on: September 27, 2020, 10:32:34 pm »

I don't know if SLEC changed it after I spotted it on the website but they listed the 1/8 scale Huntress shaft @ 4mm diameter whereas it should be 5mm.  That's what I used in the prototype. A 2mm bow in a shaft is totally unacceptable.
DaveM
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clockworks

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2020, 09:55:32 am »

They are showing a 4mm shaft in the recommended parts list for the Huntress, so that's what I ordered with the kit. Fortunate in a way, as it fitted the Huntsman.


I've ordered another shaft for the Huntress from Model Boat Bits on eBay.


I originally built the Huntsman with a red "UJ" coupling, but replaced it with a rubber/ally one after its first outing. Mine was running slightly out of true, so I've gone back to the red one.


Does anybody make a range of couplings that allow for a tiny bit of motor misalignment while running without vibration and noise at higher RPM with a relatively powerful brushless setup?  I built a tug that had room for a pair of red joints joined with a back to back coupler, and that seems to work well. Not sure how it would work at 12,000 RPM though.
Silicon tubing is quiet, but I think it would struggle with the power.


What do the fast electric guys use?

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zooma

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #18 on: September 28, 2020, 10:23:43 am »

The fast electric guys use flexible shafts for their drive and the couplings are rigid as they basically only clamp the flexi-shaft onto the motor shaft.
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2020, 12:49:56 pm »

My Huntsman had a tube and shaft supplied by SLEC. The shaft was 4mm but the tube was 6mm OD and definitely flexed at the prop end. Dave M had apparetnlyt specified the 8mm OD tube. When I built the Swordsman I used one of the SHG hard brass 8mm OD tubes with M4 shaft which was far more rigid.

Colin
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clockworks

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #20 on: September 30, 2020, 11:19:49 am »

Evening session at the lake last night, so I took the Huntsman. So much quieter with the replacement prop shaft.


I think I might have to add a tiny bit of ballast at the back, or try moving the battery tray backwards. The boat sits a little low at the front at rest, but almost leaves the water at full throttle. I noticed a couple of times as I crossed the wake of other boats that it momentarily lost drive, as if the prop was coming out of the water.
I suppose this could be perfectly normal for a relatively fast and lightweight boat that's sharing lake space with big lifeboats though?
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #21 on: September 30, 2020, 11:32:58 am »

Quote
I think I might have to add a tiny bit of ballast at the back, or try moving the battery tray backwards. The boat sits a little low at the front at rest, but almost leaves the water at full throttle.

I found exactly the same with mine although Dave Milbourn's prototype sits in the water OK despite the same spec. A bit of weight in the stern doesn't seem tpo appreciably affect performance.

I just wonder if I maybe hollowed out the solid balsa bow blocks a bit too much which resuced buoyancy at the front of the boat. Puzzling really.

Colin
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clockworks

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #22 on: September 30, 2020, 11:46:52 am »

Can I ask where you got the figure from?  Mine looks a bit bare with nobody at the wheel
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #23 on: September 30, 2020, 12:31:56 pm »

They are Bruder posable figures and I agree they make all the difference. There are only two who are really look the part in a powerboat though.

https://www.scalefarm.com/d-60006_access-farm-figure_bruder_bworld_man_with_blue_trousers.htm

https://www.scalefarm.com/d-60003_access-farm-figure_bruder_bworld_man_with_white_jeans.htm

You may be able to get them cheaper elsewhere but beware of p&p costs.

Colin
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Koinonia

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Re: Slec Fairy Huntsman Build
« Reply #24 on: September 30, 2020, 12:38:00 pm »

I found moving the battery back and a bit of testing really helped with the balance.  I use the same figures which are Bruder. My grandsons have Bruder toys which are 1:16.  EBay!
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