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[jpdenver]

Greetings from this side of the "pond".
These days I find myself sorting Nuts and Cones, and  inventorying my pipe and tube "collection" 

Which brings me to the topic of Displacement Lubricators. 
 
I seem to have samples of three types, and I am curious about the Pros and Cons of each.
 There may be more types out there, and so I thought a discussion of these components is in order. 

Type 1 - Integrated Steam Steam Shutoff Valve. 

Type 2 - My Term - Dead-End with Needle Valve.

Type 3 - Open Canister

Type 1 is the type I see on engines like the Proteus, where the Throttle is integrated into the engine,
and the Steam Shut-off is built into the lubricator.

Type 2 is a type I have on My Stuart D10, where the lubricator is attached to a "cross" type fitting on the
 intake manifold, and the Throttle valve is in the Steam Line - Before the connection to the engine.
 There is a Needle Valve controlling the flow, but I find it confusing in that there is an inlet with no outlet (or so it seems).


Type 3 is one I just found in a pile of valves, and is just a canister with a connection at the top, and one at the bottom.No valves, no control.
 Could it just be a "storage tank" that gets "switched" into the flow to refill another part "downstream"? 

Here are some Pics - grouped by type.
COMMENTS?


Regards,
Jim

[rhavrane]

Bonjour James,
I have dozens of displacement lubricators of these types I have not really identified concerns about them : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrPwyjiB4uw&t=1s

My only concern would be their sizes, for example, too small for a D10.

But, As I like using my steam plants at about 30 PSI in general, steam is water saturated and auto lubricant.

Here is what I call an appropriate oil lubricator for a large machine (D10) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKRDUUG4dxI

For fun this one was made from a curtain rod stretch : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQ-lbevCsX8

Quite more original, a friend used an oil pump of locomotive in his boat : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8GK3fXlr1o
 

[DBS88]

These lubricators are interesting, i have both type 1 and 2 and I am still experimenting to find the right adjustment for the oil flow. Initially when a lot of condensate is formed more oil appears to be carried through to the engine, then as things warm up less oil, the important thing being that oil is getting through, but do wonder how many turns to open type 1 since it also controls flow of steam to the engine and how many to open type 2.
There are other lubricators, for example mechanical lubricators that are fitted where superheated steam is used, here is an example of engines set up with both a displacement lubricator for initial cold running and a mechanical lubricator for when the superheated(dry) steam comes through, does any one have experience of running mechanical lubricators on a mode boat or other model?

[KBIO]

Hello Denver!
- The first one is a Clevedon'one.
   The oil is delivered through a pin hole <à.5 mm. No oil adjustment possible. Not too much space to allow a needle to deep inside and suck the
     condensate out.
   The needle valve is an isolating valve to shutdown or reduce the steam flow from the boiler toward the engine.


- The second one is a Stuart made. You can adjust the oil supply toward the engine by unscrewing the needle valve. 1/4 turn is enough.


- The third one is a Max Hemmens . The bottom port is to connect a small valve to drain the condensate away. You need a valve in between it and
    the steam line.


Half a turn is more than enough  to lubricate your engine. You are looking at reducing frictions inside it , not making mayonnaise or cooling down mechanical parts. How many accident happens with a drop of oil on a wet floor. No need to pour a bucket to brake your bones! The size of the oiler does not depend of the size of the engine but with the time you need to lubricate. With the Stuart oiler you show, you can easily run a D10 for 45' at full RPM. Even more.
To convince yourself in the oil lubrication benefit , try to tinker a Pony brake on the engine shaft of the engine and see the difference in RPM with oil and without.
I think that if the water had good lubrication effects , then no need to put oil in our oilers or in our cars. Swamp water would make it and is cheaper! 
Interesting to get  more informations in this matter. And experience on the oil volume versus time of running.




Have a good day!!
Regards.









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