Topic: Jerry C starts building a Stuart Twin Launch Engine from castings. (Read 34310 times)

KBIO · « **Reply #275 on:** January 29, 2023, 08:30:53 am »

Hello Jerry;
I am following your good work with the greatest interest.
Concerning the leather belt, aren't afraid that it get loose through the time and slips with some oil coming around?
Tensioning with the eccentrics is a good idea, but will it be sufficient ?
Very interesting to follow up !

Regards !

Jerry C · « **Reply #276 on:** January 29, 2023, 11:53:17 pm »

Hi, in practice generator is 10V at 2A so 20Watts maximum. A very light load. Only the first belt will get oil near it and there are ways to protect it. Thanks for watching.

Jerry C.

Jerry C · « **Reply #277 on:** February 04, 2023, 03:44:55 am »

The extra rivets arrived earlier than expected so pressed on with the belt gantry. This is as far as I can go with riveting, got 3 left over. From now on it’s nuts and Philips cross head 2x5mm c/s set screws. I blagged 200 of each from Canberra Fixtures for $8.99. Unfortunately no hex headed available. I’ve realised I’m going to cut away below the gantry to permit belt and pulley access. I also need base support and fixing to base board.

Jerry C.

KNO3 · « **Reply #278 on:** February 04, 2023, 12:34:06 pm »

Nice work!

SteamboatPhil · « **Reply #279 on:** February 04, 2023, 02:20:20 pm »

Cool

Jerry C · « **Reply #280 on:** February 09, 2023, 07:53:04 am »

My initial plan was to complete the assembly of the gantry with 2mmø c/s screws and nuts with the screws entering from the outside and a nut on the inside end, losing the heads in counter sink. First attempt was a failure as no way could I get the nuts on the inside ends let alone hold them when tightening the screws. So, superglue acre to screwdriver, push screw through hole and put the nut on the outside. This worked fine. The 2mm nuts size is same as 8BA so they look ok. Only problem is they are s/s that’s why I’m using cyo to stick em to the screw driver and not a magnet. If I drop one I get another out of the box unlike when you drop a BA nut and you spend 2 hours searching for it cos Stuart only give you exactly the number required. And Blackgates sell em at a ridiculous price.
I cut out the metal under the pulleys

Anyway, I just need to make top covers for the tower tops then paint the whole gantry and then I’ll make the belts up. I’ll have to take a bit of baseboard away around engine flywheel to aid fitting the drive belt.

Jerry C.

Circlip · « **Reply #281 on:** February 09, 2023, 11:15:16 am »

Manipulating small nuts? Pushing them into a piece of clear plastic tubing helps.

Regards Ian.

Jerry C · « **Reply #282 on:** February 11, 2023, 07:26:14 am »

I made a pair of column caps then moved on to tension handles for the eccentric pulley adjustment.
I glued two aluminium blanks together, blued them up and marked out for the centres for eccentrics and handles.
Milled everything to shape. Drilled and tapped two holes in each pair of eccentrics and tapped them 3-48 so I can use up some of the generator screws.

Painted the full gantry and the levers gloss blue.

I’ll turn up some nice brass handles for the levers.

Jerry C.

Jerry C · « **Reply #283 on:** February 12, 2023, 05:44:40 am »

Today I crowned the transfer pulleys. I machined them 2°.
The gantry is now completed. I was going to make two handles for the levers but I’ve been wondering about using ratchets or pins to secure them in position thus holding tension but overnight a little voice said “springs”. I’ll think about it.

Jerry C.

Jerry C · « **Reply #284 on:** February 14, 2023, 06:33:35 am »

Pre stretching the belts for 48 hours.

I’ve acquired a block of rosin used on violin bows to dress the leather to help grip. Anyone got better ideas??

Jerry C.

Baldrick · « **Reply #285 on:** February 14, 2023, 08:26:00 am »

At the bowls club we use a product called GRIPPO, comes in a tube to put on your hand so the bowl does not zip away on damp days . Just a thought

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #286 on:** February 14, 2023, 09:28:10 pm »

Quote from: Jerry C on February 14, 2023, 06:33:35 am

Pre stretching the belts for 48 hours.

Hi Jerry,
Just back in circulation, Been in Glasgow Royal Infirmary for nine days due to 2- weeks with Covid -19 and then when my immune system was low I had an attack with another New Virus which left me with Pneumonia Home now and on the mend now but Oxygen still a bit low.

I see by the pic that your dynamo belts look about 1.5" wide, they will not stay on the dynamo pulley even with the pulley being crowned, I say this as during my apprenticeship
In the biggest flour and provender Mill in Scotland there was plenty of milling machines and others that were belt driven and by memory any thing down at 2" and others had to have the pulleys with upstands ( see dynamo on e-bay all driving pulleys and followers had to have upstands on either side as the dynamo on e-bay to keep the belts tracked
204240695076 ) Rosin was also used.

How are you going to join the belt ?
[/color]
George

I’ve acquired a block of rosin used on violin bows to dress the leather to help grip. Anyone got better ideas??

Jerry C.

Jerry C · « **Reply #287 on:** February 15, 2023, 09:30:13 am »

Hi George, long time no hear. Mary got Covid on top of all her other problems. Recovered now and should be back on her bicycle next week.

The belts are 7/16” wide. In the gantry the pulleys are 1” long x 1/2” dia.

Belts will be skived, glued then sewn with waxed flax thread.

Jerry C.

Circlip · « **Reply #288 on:** February 15, 2023, 11:22:43 am »

Used leather belts on some of the textile machinery we made. Oldest types were laced together. Yorkshire mill owners, being FRUGAL, had some drive belts with 'multiple' sections laced together. Later versions were joined with a multi tongued metal strip which gave a rhythmic click going over the pulleys. Last ones we supplied had a flat nylon core with chrome leather facings inside and out and manufactured to length - endless. As George has suggested, you will probably have to put flanges on either sides of the pulleys, you can't scale nature.

Regards Ian.

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #289 on:** February 15, 2023, 08:47:43 pm »

Hi Ian
The flour mill had 6 floors with each floor having about 30 flour grinding machines per floor and all were leather belt driven and each floor connected to a rope race that was driven by a huge 3 - cylinder steam engine.

The drive belts to the milling machines were jointed with Alligator metal jointing clips, still available on the market, they had teeth that the belt was cut and inserted between the teeth of one of the clips and hammered closed and the other into the matching clip that had a series of holes , just like a door hinge that allowed a slip pin to go thro' to join up the belts allowing the belt to flex as it drove the machines and as you have said produced a clicking noise as it passed over the pulleys.

All of the drive pulleys in full size were very much larger than the small pulley on Jerry's dynamo which I feel the bell will continually fall off.

You may notice that Mamod and other small steam models use a grooved pully and a spring drive belt that when cut to size one end screws into the other.

Jerry.
Once you have scarfed both ends of the belt glued before sewing, what type of glue stays bendable after sewing ?
The only adhesive that I know of is the rubber solution to mend punctures on bike inner tubes, which would allow the belt to go around such a small pulley, but then the stitching will not allow the joint to bend around the small pulley

Last question can you get the burner into the fire tube as the dynamo looks very close to the boiler.

Great job Jerry, the blue looks great.

George.

Jerry C · « **Reply #290 on:** February 18, 2023, 06:50:25 am »

Belts all finished. Used Bostik contact adhesive to hold ends together for sewing. Used twin needles and half hitches for sewing. Joints are perfectly flexible to go over pulleys. The belts can’t come off the two pulleys in the gantry because there’s nowhere for them to wander off to. The only belt that can come off a pulley is the final drive belt. The generator is moveable and has a little adjustment radially. If the belt wanders too much then I’ll add end plates to the pulley.

Plenty of room for the burner. Gas tank will be remote from the plant and will feed burner from below mounting base.

Jerry C.

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #291 on:** February 18, 2023, 04:56:53 pm »

Hi Jerry,
I have no experience with Bostik does does it stay flexible when cured, hope you will not need to fit end guide end plates to the pulleys on the generator.

Look forward to the plant working. Glad to hear that Mary is getting out on the bike, I am afraid that it will be some time before I am allowed out on the bike.
I am not even allowed int the W/Shop, this is the 4th week since I was discharged from The G.R.I so a bit to go yet.

Take care
Geo

Jerry C · « **Reply #292 on:** February 19, 2023, 12:47:14 am »

For some reason I’m not getting notifications for this thread. Tried unnotifying /notify to no avail.

Jerry C.

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #293 on:** February 19, 2023, 10:30:32 pm »

Hi Jerry,
Everything working this end,
Have you tried contacting Moderator.

George.

Jerry C · « **Reply #294 on:** March 10, 2023, 07:23:39 am »

A little more. I made a mount for my Seivert burner and a gas pipe to the Butane camping gas cylinder.
I didn’t make a good job when I measured up for the belt lengths so forced to raise the gantry by 3/8”.
Only a few small things to do like making Frankestine switches and a combination volt/amp meter.
I hope all completed before we return to UK and our Narrowboat.

Jerry C.

rhavrane · « **Reply #295 on:** March 10, 2023, 08:18:28 am »

Bonjour Jerry,
For information, Pendlesteam made for me a vertical burner for my diameter : https://youtu.be/x7BvLdwiGB0
His site https://www.pendlesteamboilers.co.uk

Jerry C · « **Reply #296 on:** March 11, 2023, 12:26:36 am »

This boiler is 5” return flow scotch boiler. The burner type you mentioned wouldn’t be suitable. You can’t light the burner at the top of the chimney. You have to light it at the nozzle.

Jerry C.

CliffW · « **Reply #297 on:** March 25, 2023, 01:09:33 am »

Agreed Jerry, to be able to light the burner from the chimney, I have found that the burner needs to be of a type that is a tight fit in the flue tube....not a "Sievert burner" type.

Jerry C · « **Reply #298 on:** May 04, 2023, 09:37:36 am »

That’s us back in Blighty after two days of flying, Canberra-Sydney-Singapore- Frankfurt-Manchester. Back on Angelica and back on UK time, jet lag gone.
I’ll be back on Mayhem November.
Follow us on Facebook, Angelica’s Adventures, the story of two old codgers on the cut.
TTFN.

Jerry C.

rhavrane · « **Reply #299 on:** May 04, 2023, 10:32:19 am »

Bonjour,
Please note that I can light on this vertical burner made by Pendlesteam on demand without any problrm through the chemney :
https://youtu.be/1itsN_gffWA

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Author Topic: Jerry C starts building a Stuart Twin Launch Engine from castings. (Read 34310 times)