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[KBIO]

Hello!
Here is my KURUN !
That’s mean THUNDER in Gaelic!
We won’t see the construction as I built it a bit after I retired , the last century and I did not have a camera yet! Anyway I am probably the worst camera man on earth!
She has been built following the drawing of a real one from  a friend/sailor who had it in a drawer for years.
The construction is clasical for clinker launch. Exactly as the real ones.


The boat is 140 cm long x 45 cm wide and weight  18 kg (all wet) !
The engine is a D10 Stuart machined down by a friend with Stuart casting.
The Boiler is a double SCOTT one , heated by 2x 150 g/hr BOBINO burners supplied with liquid phase.The gas Attenuator / regulator and Shut off valve are also made by the same friend. ( who built the same boat at the same time but with different boiler / engine / propeller) .
The adjustable pitch propeller has been machined down following the drawing of a real one.
The reciprocating water pump supply is machined down from Southworth plan.
The kettle is operational …… and the cool box too.


The first video is a quick over view of the boat and we can discuss every item separately after.
https://youtu.be/czcxJsJJ-9I


The second video show the blades rotation :  Ahead & Reverse.
https://youtu.be/-nUcxIuF8WI


The 3rd video shows the steam test.
https://youtu.be/7AQ_P27YUaI



The 4th one shows the performance of the artist who thought of everything but bringing the transmiter    !!
https://youtu.be/SIa02wCQZnk




You will not find  somebody more messy than I am and I have no other video of the launch sailing as I did not film her when I was going to sail !
 I don’t know if someone made any during the summer meetings I’ve been on ???


Next post will describe the different items.
Regards.

[DBS88]

Thank you for sharing, the photos and the videos, I am very impressed, particularly with the variable pitch prop, that looks like a decent piece of engineering, I would love to know more about it, since it looks to be a very useful alternative to a reversing mechanism.

[SailorGreg]

"This video may be inappropriate for some users."

Not sure why the overview video gets this warning?  But it's an interesting video, thanks for sharing.


Greg

[KBIO]

Good evening!
"This video may be inappropriate for some users."

I probably pushed the wrong button.I made a correction, must be good now.
Hope so!
Cheers!

[KBIO]

Good evening.
Below are :
The D10
The double Scott boiler;
The 2 x burners supplied in liquid phase : 150 gr ea.
Regards.
ps : For those interested I shall try to post a drawing of the mechanism of variable pitch propeller.

[Mark T]

Wow that’s a beautiful boat 

[steamboatmodel]

That is a great looking Model.
You say "The 2 x burners supplied in liquid phase : 150 gr ea"
[/size]Does that mean that the fuel is a liquid that is vaporized in the burner? Is the fuel a Butane/Propane mix or [/size]Naphtha or some other liquid?
[/size]Gerald.

[KBIO]

good morning!
Thank you for your kind comments.
To answer to Steamboat model:
- The gas which is common 70 Butane/30 Propane  is not vaporized IN the burner but AROUND.
A quick drawing below shows the path of the gas.


- It is taken from the bottom of the tank (10 mm above to avoid draining debris) . The top gas tank pressure pushing it out.
- It is "vaporized" in the coil around the burner.
- Then cooled down through another coil to bring it to ambiant temp to pass through the different devices (gas attenuator, regulator, shut of valve,.. )
   Pinching this pipe between two fingers is enough to know if it's too hot or too cold. The coil length has to be adjusted then.
   Note: The shut off safety valve has to be positioned on the gas side as it takes some time for the liquid to expand.
          : we can see the cool down coil above the two burners in the previous photo.


Remember that a drop of liquid is 270 times its volume when gazeous @ standards conditions. So the gas tank never frost.
Some people add a second line 100% gaseous to warm up the burner  prior to by-pass on the liquid line; I don't! I just crack the supply valve open until the burner is hot enough. It takes 10 second maximum. Then, it is not necessary to wide open it!
Note: never largely  open the tank valve directly as the liquid will flow to the burner and make a flame thrower.


In Toronto, during the cold , I guess that the percentage of Propane is higher!
As I say : "do not fill up with butane in winter and propane in summer , or take a pack of beer with you to pass the time !" 
Eventually, we may open a post on this subject if interested!.
Have a nice (an safe) day!

[steamboatmodel]

Thank you for that explanation. I have a couple of camping burners that you can invert the canister and run on the liquid, with them it does take some time from when you adjust the flow rate until the flame changes. I like the way you have set your system up and will probably copy it in a future build. Yes running models outside in Toronto December can be a bit of a problem, so it is mostly repair and build time, with watching U-tube videos of models operating in warmer climes. At one time we used to have a Hobby Show in November and a Boat Show in January that we ran and displayed our models at that had pools to run on, but unfortunately those time are over.  I think that there may be enough interest in this subject to open a new post.
Gerald.

[KBIO]

Hello!
I'll try to, prepare another  post on the liquid phase, but it will have to be a team work as my English is a bit weak to make me clearly understand.   
(If the ridicule would kill , I 'd be dead since a long time ! )


Below is my water pump to supply the boiler. It is a Souhtwork drawing downsized a bit to pump as much water that the engine consumes.
 Calculations are not very accurate but It maintains a good and stable level inside the boiler.  The burners supply enough heat  to maintain the pressure while pumping.
The pump is supplied by an independent steam line and it is running permanently during the steaming sailing.
It takes the water from the pond and circulates it out of the hull. (see the inlet and outlet on the 3rd pic (one is plugged as it was at the wrong place)) .When I need to feed the boiler, I just close the by-pass forcing the water to the boiler. It is controlled with a standard Futaba S3003 servo.
The main problem with this type of pump is that when it stops, it creates  condensation inside the "distributor puppet"(?)  which does not allow to start again.
So to avoid this, the pump keeps going pumping and the main steam line  goes trough a "shirt" surrounding the top of pump itself , keeping it alway warm and operational.
Conclusion: as long as there is gas, there is steam for sailing.
That's all I have for today.
Regrds.

[DBS88]

Thats a great set up with the pump feed to the boiler and one that I would be keen to follow, I am coming to the conclusion that for my new build that taking water from the lake is the way to go, and have been looking at a small steam driven pump from Poly Model Engineering, so its great to see how you have achieved this and the tips about keeping the pump warm so that it will run are priceless, thank you.

[KBIO]

As long as the  water is Ph7 or below, there is no problem.
And if there is some limestone, don't panic neither. Flushing the boiler with white vinegar when the sight glass starts to be white is good enough for years.
Think of a small screen to avoid pumping artemias inside the boiler though!
Don't worry if this happens. It is good to lubricate the moving parts and the steam cleans it away anyway. 
Have fun and let us know!!
Regards<.

[rhavrane]

Bonjour Dave,
I confirm Kbio's information, I also use the water of the ponds on my steam plants coupled with a pump without any problem. I just always install a filter (generally used on RC cars  ) to prevent coarse dirt from entering the water circuit which would disturb the correct operation of the pump.
Example : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKRDUUG4dxI
In addition, in the oil separator, there is a 3x2 one meter long pipe to heat the water before introduction into the boiler which allows us to re inject water at 70/80 degrees Celsius, so I think that all the possible artemias present in the water would die    

[KBIO]

Hello!
Just to end up with this post, I show the gas supply set up and safety devices inside.
The last one being the de-oiler.

[KBIO]

To finish.
The kettle producing as much hot water as you wish! But careful with the finger!
This one is over and I realize one thing! You are going to tell me :
-"KBIO, you boat is a mess! It deserves a good overall and a good cleaning!"
You are right!!
Have a good day!
Regards.